I'm at wits end on what to do with them once they acquire a nice coat of sticky rubber... washing is pointless... freezer?

Well kastam did asked me to open one of the luggage box, coz they saw clear silhouette of human figure from the Hayate figurine. They only noticed I has another big figurine inside the box when I opened the luggage bag. Luckily both figurines are SFW. NSFW one I put in my backpack, which I don't put inside the scanner. The rest of the luggage they don't ask to open. Maybe because it's early in the morning and there are queue behind me (checking 4 luggage will take quite a long time)

Usually I put in freezer.. but maybe need to wash first since usually there are dust stuck on the sticky part as well

Any guide about how to clean the figure. Some of my figma (Nagato Yuki & Saber) got some sticky dirt on it. (sorry, Google doesn't give me any good result)

BTW, why u guys put the figure in the fridge? Preserving the paint?

P/s: My Nagato Yuki and Saber were earlier version in figma production. Got some rubber made on the dress, which easy get stain and dust.

This post has been edited by hayrol: Aug 2 2016, 01:11 AM

usually figures can be washed with plain water
you can even use diluted dishwashing liquid if you wish to, i use it to remove stains especially fingerprints along with a sponge, it doesnt damage the paint. Nothing too concentrated, diluted liquid. Scale figures are protected by a layer of coating, so soap and stuff are unable to damage it easily. Chemicals that use water as solvent are unlikely to damage a figure, but beware of chemicals using ether, alcohol, turpentine or thinner as solvents. And remember that this protective coating is not present on cheap prize figures.

For freezer, it's to prevent or slow down a type of chemical found in PVC from seeping out of the figure and evaporating, called plasticizer. Sometimes when u buy a new figure, the clear plastic wrapping the figure is a bit oily, that is plasticizer. Plasticizer keeps a figure's parts flexible enough, so that the PVC material wont be brittle. But under constant exposure to warm temperature or sun it seeps out of the figure making the figure oily, then evaporates, leaving a sticky residue behind. As plasticizer leaves the figure, the pvc structure of the figure becomes more brittle and easier to break, that is why you hear cases of broken nendoroid joints (especially at the neck where weight stress is highest), the joints had weakened due to this heat effect. For older figures which do not have ABS and other composite materials, the heat effect softens the PVC, combined with uneven weight distribution of the figure, making it bend or lean in the long run.

Newer figures are made from a composite of PVC and ABS, and/or ATBC-PVC, which is stronger and more heat resistant. But the plasticizer evaporation can still happen - and to prevent or minimize that we shove the figures into a freezer once in a while. Doing so both prevents evaporation of plasticizer, and strengthens the PVC structure which has been softened or weakened by heat. Each figure only needs to spend 10-15 minutes in a freezer, not too long. You will notice a pvc figure become a bit harder after refrigerating it, that's normal and probably a good thing.

When you compare figures of similar sizes, some feel quite heavy, some feel quite light. The heavy one has more PVC and less to none ABS. Those extremely light ones have a higher percentage of ABS, and also more expensive to manufacture. If you have touched or built gunpla before, the tough rigid plastic you feel in your hands is ABS plastic. That material is way more heat resistant and does not bend under warm temperature. Nowadays usually you will notice Good Smile and Alter's scale figures are relatively light, and Kotobukiya's to be really heavy. The light ones are actually a sign that the figure is of good quality in terms of material composition.

This post has been edited by EXkurogane: Aug 2 2016, 04:28 AM

an excellent read for collectors. thanks, exkurogane!

Great info bro!

Thanks for great sharing bro.
Will try the method on my figma later on.

https://www.nippon-yasan.com/18077-fate-sta...ed-edition.html
Nah hayrol

Looking it right now. Never try Nippon-Yasan before although got heard from it from mfc. Got Pay-Later function that makes me interested as well, since I got other commitment (getting new rig with GTX1080).

Anyway, what shipping courier you guys prefer for international delivery. Just for opinion.
(Please dont laugh of the shipping cost)



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EMS

Also, for currency, choose JPY (Japan Yen)

This post has been edited by Exiled_Gundam: Aug 2 2016, 05:13 PM

Done, already place the order.

Never choose RM even if it was suggested, choose JPY
Nippon Yasan's conversion rate is very expensive

Usually overseas based companies will have shit conversion rate for Ringgit.... cause our Ringgit is some god forsaken 3rd world country currency. Also its VERY erratic... hence ppl need a wider margin cause it can go up/down by quite alot within a few days.

Shipping cost will be cheaper like that?

Nippon-Yasan iinm use Paypal conversion rate, which usually higher than CC conversion rate. Supposedly for Nippon Yasan you choose the currency before they calculate shipping

Fate/Grand Order - Sakura Saber/Souji Okita 1/7 Complete Figure by Brian Chong, on Flickr

Love the build quality and paint job. I'm not a regular collector of scale figures but this one's impressive, at least to me.

This atleast nicer then those Computex 2016 girls.... auntie quality... except the one in blue...

Hi all,

Need your help to advise is the issue of the statue figure that show in the picture can be fixed? Thanks


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wah... why this thread so quiet?

received notification odile and odet release delayed till next month