https://www.facebook.com/zordaqtrg/posts/843747332409294

This might be the reason why. Time to buy white lithium grease.

I just sold my previous absorbers today for RM200 . Time to budget for a head unit upgrade.

Go to any spare parts shop and ask them for bumper plastic clips. They should be around RM2 or less per piece. Your wheel arch cover is loose and rubbing on the tyre when you're driving.

Not sure about T-IV, I would go back to SP3 as soon as possible if I were you, or use synthetic ATF which is compatible with gearboxes that use SP3.

Some say it affects performance, but I think it's mostly just noise unless the actuator for switching between the long/short intake is stuck. I heard that the rod may eventually break if it's left in its current state, so it's probably a good idea to get the thing serviced, I.e. Shorten the rod if I'm not mistaken.

I took some time to apply some synthetic lithium grease to the back of the brake pads for the front since the morning groaning noise was way too much after the insulation layer got removed. For now my brakes do not groan loudly anymore early in the morning, and even without warming up, when the car closes to a halt, the brakes hardly groan as well. If it stays like this, I'll probably get some proper brake grease to replace the current one since it's only rated for 200+ Deg C.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 4 2015, 01:46 PM

Low frequency noise. Should not be a problem to apply a suitable layer of grease to the back of the pads.

"Ngummmmmmm" sound. Does not hurt the ears but it's loud and annoying.

I told one of the foreman to re-adjust the insulation layer of the pads since they weren't seated properly, but he proceeded to tear them off on the pretext that it doesn't do anything and that it's just plastic.

Yup, it is indeed. The plastic layer that comes on all the Bendix MKT pads which Bendix calls the insulation layer can be easily unseated when the brake calipers are put on since only the middle part of the layer is glued to the brake pads.

One of the recent "fix" I did to my car was to wrap the plastic of the all the door strikers with a layer of electrical tape since they're all already broken. It seems to be a problem for many, if not all Personas, and for mine it was causing my door closing noise to be inconsistent (for the rear right door, it started closing with a loud plastic KOK noise recently), and worse still, preventing some of the doors from being shut properly at times.




For now it seems that the doors are closing more consistently now, and the noise when the door closes/open is now consistent and less "metalic" sounding when the metal bit that latches onto the door striker unlocks.


Edit: Do not remove the plastic bit from the door striker unless you want to deal with a metallic noise whenever the door closes.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 4 2015, 06:53 PM

As long as your hand brake is not engaged and you are pressing the brake pedal, your door will auto lock if you open and close the door, or if you press the brake pedal when your hand brake is not engaged and the door is not locked.

Edit: Should be Ecopia, and it is from Bridgestone.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 4 2015, 09:28 PM

Maybe it's the brake pads. It may also be a problem with the servo, or it's just that you have to press harder on the brake pedal once it becomes stiff according to others who also use the Evo servo.

For mine it's certainly a big step up from the previous servo. I think you're still not used to having to press hard on the brake pedal to get the braking power you want.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 6 2015, 05:56 PM

I'm not sure about this. You can try asking your mechanic to see what can be done, or maybe contact Zordaq Motorsport/Engineering for their opinion. What brake pads are you currently using? Did your mechanic bleed your brakes for you after the installation?

When I got the servo installed, it wasn't as good as I imagined it would be at first cause the car didn't seem to be stopping fast unless I pushed harder on the brake pedal once it becomes stiff. Now I think I'm used to the brake pedal feel since I have no problems so far with stopping my car fast.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 6 2015, 06:18 PM

After installing the servo, your mechanic should remove any air introduced to the braking lines/system during installation by pumping fresh brake fluid through the system and out of all the bleeder valves located on each of the brake calipers. It's normally done by having one person pump the brake pedal, while the other person deals with the job of opening and closing the bleeder valve to let brake fluid out until there is no sign of air bubbles in the fluid that comes out.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 6 2015, 06:29 PM

Are you using original Proton brake pads? I heard that their braking power is lousy.

Then I think you should upgrade your brake pads.

Maybe try some other brand or more expensive Bendix pads like the Bendix Ultimate. My Bendix MKT brake pads make a lot of groaning noise when they're cold and the car is almost at a halt even when they were still new.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 6 2015, 06:53 PM

By the way, my brake pedal no longer feels crazy stiff after a short travel. It seems softer now. Not sure if it's because the servo is working properly now, or something is wrong. Braking power still seems ok.

SE got different braking system meh? . There is a metal piece below the master cylinder of the Evo servo for ABS connection.

I think it's the stupid compressor.

Had this problem since the day I got my car. Got worse since the mechanic removed the brake insulation layer. Noise came back about two days after applying lithium grease on the back of the brake pads.