I'm not sure if my small medium definition is the same as yours. But anyway, I think if you remove both front and back wheels of the bicycle, you can probably fit both of them inside and store the wheels in the boot.

Ultra high performance if I'm not mistaken.

Spray paint?

Door handle right? Yes, it can be spray painted.

Not sure how much shops charge for spraying the handle. I'd send it to a shop cause I don't think I'd do a good job. But if you would like to try, you can get spray cans with the right colour for your car from here.

Leaking issue is easy to solve. The hard part is only sticking "shields" to cover up parts of the door where water can enter like the door clip holes, or sticking the weather sheet back.

"
PW836193
AUTO T/LID SYSTEM,W. ACT ROD (LATCH ASSY)
RM55.60
*PRICE INCLUDING GST
:

This is the quotation I got from Proton Parts Centre for the Remote Trunk Release System. Planning to get it tomorrow from PPC since it's pretty damn cheap. The connector for it is already there, or at least it is for my boot.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 16 2015, 05:31 PM

Uhmmm.. I dunno, but I assume it is the complete thing since all you need for the release system to work is to have the actuator + the actuator rod. If your boot doesn't have the padding, take a look inside around the latch area and you will see the lock mechanism. There are two metal parts of the lock mechanism with holes, and one of them will cause the lock to be released when it is pushed down, which is where the actuator rod probably connects to.

On the trunk.

Don't think so. The alarm system seems to already have this feature included. Pressing /holding the alarm button when the car is unlocked should cause the remote trunk release to operate. There is no mention of an additional button for this operation anywhere in the manual.

Missing quite a bit of components for the auto trunk system, which are as follows:

1) Mounting plate
2) Wire connection
3) Screws
4) Actuator Rod

I purchased a new boot latch that comes with the Actuator Rod. I think it's supposed to be included with the motor, but then since PPC was closing I decided to buy it and remove the rod and keep the new latch as a spare since they already took it from the store.

For some reason the connector that is hanging off the boot doesn't connect directly to the motor. Based on the picture that I saw, there is apparently a wire that comes with the motor, which I didn't ask for since I thought that it connects directly to the one in the boot. The mounting points on the motor doesn't line up with the holes on the trunk, and even if it did, the screw required doesn't make sense or would be too huge for the motor. This is probably why there was an image of a plate in the diagram of the trunk lid system. I thought that I could get away with using some screws that I already have in the house.

Total damage so far: RM110+-. Might rise if the rest of the parts aren't actually included with the price of the motor.




This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 17 2015, 07:32 PM

I can tell you that if no water actually makes it pass the weather sheet/door, the inner* part of the rubber you cut into would be completely dry.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 17 2015, 07:17 PM

It depends I guess. So far all my diys are still doing well. Only got leakage occasionally because Ive been messing around with the doors and didn't stick the thing back properly, or because i did a quick and temporary fix.


Actually this isn't a bad idea as long as it does not affect the seals' ability to block external noise

I got the holding plate and found some suitable screws to secure the motor to the plate and the plate to the boot. Also got the connector that connects to the motor and then the connection that's hanging off the trunk, but my boot release system isn't working. The panic button still causes the car to lock and the horn to start blaring no matter what I try. If the alarm module for the B and M line Persona is different, I guess I'm screwed since the boot release will not work unless I change it to the right alarm module.

Sorry I mean B and H. Oh well. Now looking around for answers.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 18 2015, 09:19 PM

Nope. I think we will have to drill into the rear lamps to put the bulbs. Other than that I think any accessory shop can help you get it done by using a switch and relays.


Are you on a lowered suspension set-up? How does your car look now?

Do you have the manual with you? It will tell you which part of the car isn't closed based on the number of times the LED is blinking. I don't have mine with me right now.

Gonna get my rear drum system swapped out for a disc system tomorrow if everything goes as planned. My rear right brake recently failed out of the blue when I was driving. The brake pedal suddenly went deeper which was accompanied by a "kok" sound from the rear right brake. Tired of the drum brakes which have been giving me issues since the day I started using the car.

My handbrake doesn't work correctly now, but luckily I still have my parking brake.

The workshop I'm going to is Ezy Garage which is selling the set for RM1200. Don't need to remove the arms, so I think I won't need to re-do the alignment for the rear. A little bit on the high side, but most of the parts are new except for the brake calipers which are serviced units, but if they work fine, it's fine by me.

Yup.. That one is really overpriced. If it was RM1600 I'd rather buy parts myself, which means everything will be completely new. Probably will still have cash to buy suitable tools like a breaker bar etc as well to DIY. . Then bring it to a workshop to get them to install the handbrake cable.

Not very good fuel efficiency for city driving. If the car is properly maintained it is a fairly decent car.