Also, just did a DIY on the steering rack bushing. Passenger side bushing is really easy to replace. You will need to get under the car to pull the driver side's bushing out unless you have really good grip and strength and can pull it out from the top. The bolts that secure the metal plates of the bushings can be accessed from the engine bay with the air filter housing taken out. I'm not sure if it's the same for Personas with ABS though. .

New driver side bushing was quite hard to get in because of the way it goes around the steering rack. Compared to the old one it is in the "D-" shape. " - " indicates the point where each end of the bushing meets. The ends of the old bushing meet at the top. Maybe it's just the driver side bushing I got that was designed like this.

P/S: Old driver side bushing is as soft as tofu. Passenger side bushing is still ok. I went out for a short drive just now and the alignment seems to be unaffected.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 6 2016, 04:31 PM

Original Proton SP3, Genuine Mitsubishi Diaqueen SP3, or synthetic ATF like Petro Canada Duradrive MV and Mobil 1 ATF.

Sigh. New wheel bearings, new problem. The wong wong sound between 60-80km/h has disappeared completely, but now after some time of driving, the bearings will exhibit a high pitch noise/wheee noise below 40km/h. I was told by the experts that the noise is common with some NTN bearings, and should disappear after enough mileage has been racked up.

If you're worried, buy it from an authorised Proton dealer. I dunno how to differentiate original and fake ATF.

Tyre not completely round / absorber mounting rosak / rim problem.

Go check your absorber mountings, and if they are spoilt, change them, then only re-do the balancing. Do high speed balancing if needed.

During first start of the day / cold start? During operation at normal temperature?

I suspect the O2 Sensor.

After some time of driving with the new steering rack bushes (silicone), I have to say that it's much easier to hold the cornering line now. Previously my car would sometimes corner well, sometimes wobble a bit midway during corner, and sometimes start going wide. With the new steering rack bushes however, the wobble and straying seems to have disappeared. It didn't solve my random pedal area kok kok noise though.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 13 2016, 08:04 PM

I did the change myself since I had a lot of space to work with, plus I wanted to save RM60. Since your car is the SV model, I think you will have to get underneath the car to get access to both of the bushings since the ABS module is located just above the passenger side bushing. If you don't have the tools and time, get the workshop to do it for you, and maybe get higher quality/performance bushings (e.g PU bush) while you're at it since you'll have to pay for the labour.

I see. I hope mine disappears soon.

Well... It depends on you. If you feel that your car doesn't handle as good as it used to, changing the steering rack bushings may help. I take the same corners fairly often and have to say that the steering feels good so far.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 14 2016, 06:38 PM

Open each doors individually and check to see which one does not cause the door ajar light to appear when it is open. If all of the doors seem fine, close all the doors and play around with the roof light switch and see if it causes the door ajar light to light up.

My roof light's switch had contact issues and would occasionally connect in such a way that the door ajar light will come on. If your alarm is armed, it will sound.

Is it really loud? Mine doesn't have any abnormal sound. Only the soft relay tik sound.


This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 15 2016, 11:34 AM

I see. If it isn't related to your wiper blades/arms (e.g wiper arm incorrectly adjusted and therefore causing the wiper blade to hit the edge of the windscreen), it could be the wiper linkage, or the motor itself. The wiper motor can be easily accessed from the engine bay, but to get access to the wiper linkage, you'll need to remove the plastic piece that runs along the bottom of the windscreen. It is fairly easy cause you'll just need to pull out the black plastic screws from the engine bay and remove two screws located at each end of the plastic piece, then pry the plastic piece off which is held to the car by plastic clips which are also used for door panels.

Be careful when you buy aftermarket wiper linkage, cause I bought one once and the driver side wiper spindle (where the wiper arm is screwed on to) wasn't the right size, so the right wiper couldn't be installed properly. I managed to get a refund for it. Also, do note that there are plenty of sharp edges around.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 15 2016, 04:28 PM

Finally we can say goodbye to the Camtakpro . The new engines from Plotong look promising, but sadly the body of the Persona is going to be different and a segment down. IMO, the Persona Elegance H-Line looks very nice especially if the paint is in a good condition.

Wiring problem? The auto lock function is by default not linked to the throttle.

Don't think it's gonna be a feasible idea. I think the biggest problem is getting the engine to fit in the car, second being buying a used one in the first place. Luckily we still have the 4G63T option.

Tak tauu ooo. I never researched much about this since I have no plans to upgrade the engine. But I recall reading somewhere in this forum that it's now allowed.

For my car I can only insert the nozzle halfway, otherwise it'll keep stopping. Sometimes the angle of the nozzle also causes the thing to stop.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 19 2016, 03:43 PM

Not sure if the Persona Elegance has a different design, but the window regulator for mine is metal. The symptom I have experienced so far for a failing power window motor is that it only likes operating once under hot weather before going dead. It comes back to life when it has cooled down a bit. Replacing the window motor is a very easy DIY task.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 19 2016, 04:00 PM

Yes, mine is pre-facelift. The door panel is held on by screws, all of which should be easily found (5 for front door, 3 for rear). Once you remove all the screws, you just need to slowly pry the door panel off the door. I would suggest running your fingers along the door panel to slowly release it so you don't break the door clips. You can start by pulling the door panel off from the top.

The only thing that you need to worry about is sticking the weather sheet back. I would suggest buying windscreen sealant as well because the butyl strip that holds the weather sheet has probably dried up after so long. Also, be careful when you remove the power window motor from the regulator. The part where the power window motor sits on the regulator is spring loaded.

By the way, the regulator has to be removed from the door so that you can get access to the power window motor. This means that you will have to remove the two screws that secure the window to the regulator itself as well. If your motor still works, use it to wind the window until it's almost completely down. You should be able to get access to the screws then.

If the spring is causing the installation of the power window motor to be difficult, work with the new motor. Remove the spring from the part that it is holding, then install the new motor. Once that's done, plug it to its power source and use the motor to move its base into position so you can pull the spring back into its seat.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 19 2016, 04:22 PM

Front Windscreen 70%, front windows 50%, rear windows 30%

No idea. If you're worried about it being too dark, maybe get lighter tints and compensate with sunshades.

The regulator is sold separately. Just to go any spare parts shop and ask them for windscreen sealant. It should be between RM10 ~ RM20 and what you'll get is a roll of black sticky stuff.

I don't know anything about a bracket, but my last memory of the power window assembly is it's motor + regulator only. My problem was with the motor. The speaker should be mounted on the door, not on the door panel, so taking the door panel off shouldn't affect it. The connection to the driver side console can easily be plugged out after you remove the door panel. You can also remove it first by removing its screw and then prying/pulling it out of its slot. Finally, you just need to slide the door panel upwards off the door lock at an angle.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 19 2016, 09:13 PM

That is the window regulator for the rear windows. Unless they changed it, the front should be the scissors type, like this: