One side mounting minimum RM90. They say below RM90 is probably 3rd party mountings. Charges same as replacing the shock absorber, so if you want to change the mounting, consider changing the absorbers together as well unless they're still good.

Giant? Or Caltex if I'm not mistaken.

Do you have the U.R fender braces installed? Thinking of buying them.

Buy windscreen sealant and apply it generously around the speaker bracket before pushing and screwing it back onto the door, or bring it back to the accessory shop and ask them to help. Also don't forget to put some windscreen sealant between the bottom part of the speaker and the bracket so water don't find its way through there as well.

This is the fix I did for my car. I'm not sure what's the proper fix for this.

. Why? Steel price going up? Or very good demand from people with a particular monster car? Fender brace for Persona is roughly how much now? Do we need to do welding?

Your rear ARB is 16mm or 19mm or larger? Did you experience any metal twisting sound after installing a larger ARB? I have such noise after swtiching from the original ARB

Respray the handle? The spray shop will mask off the area around the handle.

If you are willing to DIY, you can try opening up your door panel and putting a bit of windscreen sealant around the place where the door clips sit on. It may help because the door clips don't snap onto the panel. Rather they just slot into there and can actually move quite easily. You just need to remove 2 screws behind the door handle, two beside, and one that secures the driver's console, then pry the door panel off starting from the door handle part.

Air-cond vent problem unfortunately cannot be solved I think.. The only thing you can do is to minimise or eliminate it by adjusting any of the air-cond vents when the sound appears. Normally it makes it go away. This problem seems to have been around for a long time. I guess it's hard to get rid of low quality vendors.

Finally, did you see where exactly the oil is leaking from? For the Campro engine, this problem normally happens at the oil dipstick and the rocker cover. The rocker cover leak is because Plotong uses a bit of sealant only. I'm not sure what causes the oil dipstick leak, but I heard that it's related to not removing the dipstick during oil change.

I had this problem long time ago. Now already solved after numerous attempts with different methods. It's related to the door design, which is rather shit. It's either caused by the weather sheet that is no longer stuck onto the door properly, or water coming through the holes where the door clips go through. If you want to go with the easy way, you can just cut small holes on the bottom of the door seals to let water flow through, but that might affect the sound sealing ability of the door seals. The other thing you can do is buy windscreen sealant, and put a thick upside down U layer around the inner side of the door clip holes and paste a plastic layer such as a book wrapper over each hole. This covers the door clips and stops water from going through.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: May 10 2016, 10:41 AM

Had my first ride in a Preve Executive from yr 2012. Didn't hear any rattling sound, and it's very comfortable. The CVT/engine noise is terrible though. Revving up to 2k+ RPM is already loud, and it was suffering from the air-cond sponge problem as well.

One guy experienced this before, but only once and it seems to have stopped since. He has been MIA for a long time though. Cavino

When was the last time you:
a) Replaced the spark plugs?
b) Cleaned the throttle body?

If both of the above have been checked/serviced, then get the car checked by a reputable workshop like Zordaq Motorsport at Shah Alam for the source of the problem.

Zordaq Motorsport is located in Shah Alam. You can just go there and ask them to replace whatever parts that need replacing. They carry all sorts of genuine proton parts.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: May 16 2016, 04:37 PM

I had my gearbox flushed and the ATF changed to synthetic ATF from Petro Canada (DuraDrive MV) about a year or two ago. So far so good. Gear changes are usually smooth.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: May 16 2016, 08:55 PM

First flush was a mix of Dexron III and DuraDrive ( 6 + 6 litres). I replacecd the ATF again after 10k to 20k mileage with 5L of DuraDrive. Now if I'm not mistaken it's been slightly over 10k KM. This fluid supposedly lasts for the lifetime of the vehicle, or about 80,000KM to 100,000KM I believe. When I replaced the ATF, it was still nice and red. So far no issues. Gear change at 6.5 ~ 7k RPM is very smooth also.

Just accelerating. You can reach about 110KM/H at gear 2 6.5K< RPM.

I see. Your car needs to have its balancing re-done if your car is shaking at high speeds. If normal balancing doesn't help, you'll have to do high speed balancing.

Best place to get original parts is Proton Parts Centre Shah Alam, but it may be a little too far plus if the queue is long, you might have to wait for a long time. You can try buying the absorbers from spare parts shop as well, but normally you'll get OE replacements like Kayaba and APM instead. I'm not sure how similar are the replacements to the original shocks, but I've tried Kayaba Excel-G gas shocks before and they caused the car to be slightly lower, plus it seems to have cause the car to have more body roll as well (from my experience with the Excel-Gs on my car, and from driving someone's Persona SV with original proton shocks).

If you want a place that offers both original parts and installation as well, you can try Zordaq Motorsport at Shah Alam.

Edit: Oh, and since your car is already 8 years old, perhaps you should get the absorber mountings replaced at the same time to save on labour cost. It costs from RM90 onwards for one piece, original Proton.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: May 18 2016, 02:56 PM

http://www.protonparts.com.my/maintenance.html

Don't remember, but you can call them with the number provided in the link above. Their website is always under maintenance, otherwise you can see the price listed there .

The price for the Kayaba Excel-G:

Front: RM130 per piece
Rear: RM65 per piece

I imagine that any other OE replacements should roughly be around the same price. Original Proton shocks come at a higher price.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: May 18 2016, 03:10 PM

I think persona elegance is using patco. The filter has four segments. The filter for Sanden only has two. Another way to check is to look at the back of the air Cond controller I think, or by looking at the compressor which is just below the engine. You can use your phone to snap a photo since there is plenty of space underneath.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jun 1 2016, 06:14 PM

Oo . How is their engagement smoothness? My sanden compressor engages quite noticeably, sometimes strong enough to feel a kick through the throttle pedal. The Persona SV I was in had very little to no engagement feeling when the compressor engages during drive. For lights dimming when compressor engages, it seems to be the same regardless of brand due to the way the radiator fan turns on. Compressor engagement doesn't actually seem to cause any dimming at all .

I'm not sure about their interchangeability, but if the filter doesn't work effectively, you'll end up with a cooling coil that gets dirty quickly. To get access to the cooling coil in the Persona, you need to remove the entire dashboard.

Call?

Why don't you ask for a battery delivery service instead? I think got one in the automotive garage sales section. Just search battery.

My car's engine oil is currently Millers EE Longlife 5W-40. RM240 incl labour and oil filter. I'm satisfied with it . My last day trip to Ipoh and Cameron Highlands and back to Damansara gave me a fuel reading of 6.4L/100KM. Average speed of 110KM/H to Ipoh, 30 to 50KM/H up Cameron on the single lane crazy winding road, and 80 ~ 100KM/H average down the wide road.

Yup.. I happened to notice that the EE LongLife's TBN seems to be quite low, and much lower than its semi synthetic brother (EE Semi Synthetic) which has 10. I usually change the oil by date though, and so far after owning this car for 4 years+ I've only racked up about 36k KM of mileage.

Don't think so... I think you haven't found a good and honest shop. I believe that our car's alignment should be done easily considering that the toe for all four wheels can be adjusted without requiring any parts to be changed. When my car was fitted with camber bolts last time (also kena con), they just adjusted the reading to be 0 with the car in the air. But this was on the pretext that the tyres will wear out faster on the outer edge, which doesn't make sense since a more positive camber will make it worse I think, in addition to having bad/aggressive toe adjustments.

My current all round camber readings are - 1.xx deg + and the shop I go to still can make it straight. The toe reading is also affected by the camber, but as far as I can see, as long as they can get the toe adjustment right, the car will go straight. When I first switched to sports suspension, the camber reading was -2 deg left and -3 deg right. The car's alignment still could be done correctly without any adjustments to the camber.