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Toys LYN RC Drifters, if it can slide, you should come in!

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TSandy
post Mar 5 2007, 10:29 AM

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better you buy new spur and pinion lar, the original spur and pinion sizes not very good for torque wink.gif but if you still want, I got spare la
TSandy
post Mar 7 2007, 02:11 AM

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no metal spur. metal + metal + moving parts = bad.

buy from me only la, like 10 bucks smile.gif
TSandy
post Mar 7 2007, 01:14 PM

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tsk tsk tsk, then TA05 is driven by what? magic? tongue.gif both shaft and belt are still strong in the market, and it's up to personal preference but if you go back into history of couse belt came along first and then followed by shaft. If you have any of those old Tamiya catalogues, just go take a look see at what the old chassis uses smile.gif

This post has been edited by andy: Mar 7 2007, 01:15 PM
TSandy
post Mar 7 2007, 08:14 PM

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I lock my diff too, both front and rear but front only 50%, worried my 23t cant carry the back with front at full power..

MS, I forgot which chassis it was, but it was in the 1998 Tamiya catalogue.. misplaced mine, but I'll look for it. If I'm not mistaken la, no hostility required wink.gif
TSandy
post Mar 14 2007, 01:29 AM

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change both only la, the spur you showed me *seemed* ok but maybe eaten up by the rongak pinion, change pinion also loh then
TSandy
post Mar 22 2007, 12:16 AM

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kueyteow, no, because QDs are rear wheel driven and in R/C drifting there's not enough weight on the front to create equal inertia during the drift.. why not get a TT01? smile.gif

wow, TB-01, really old chassis... pics?
TSandy
post Mar 22 2007, 11:40 AM

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nope, then there wouldnt be enough weight on the back pulak, so it has to be all wheel driven smile.gif if it is then you can search for 2nd hand deals lor?
TSandy
post Mar 22 2007, 02:27 PM

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I use blu-tack to sumbat inside the diff, blu-tack is the sticky plastecine thing you use in school to stick mahjong paper onto the blackboard

you can try rctech.com, lotsa good deals there
TSandy
post Mar 23 2007, 02:07 AM

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1k enough already if brand new, second hand can budget yourself based on the offers lor.

eric, wont spoil, just sumbat as much as you can anywhere you can
TSandy
post Mar 23 2007, 11:46 AM

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yes kueyteow, will include everything.. TT01 chassis.

Wan, I like your photos. This hobby is meant to be for people who dont want to risk their lives on track as simple as 1:1 drifting may sound to you.
TSandy
post Mar 23 2007, 05:41 PM

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unless you go touring, then no need to one laa tongue.gif
TSandy
post Mar 24 2007, 02:12 AM

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duh? laugh.gif tongue.gif
TSandy
post Mar 24 2007, 07:41 PM

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ok ok, not bad considering I used the Tamiya tires. able to get 2nd, can never beat the DK man... tongue.gif
TSandy
post Mar 27 2007, 04:58 PM

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the dude's in Singapore though, if it's convenient for you then yes its alright. New one is RM850 at Hobby Haven
TSandy
post Apr 8 2007, 08:54 PM

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you need to SLOW DOWN! tongue.gif
TSandy
post Apr 19 2007, 12:27 AM

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TB-02 IF i am not mistaken..

why? new car? tongue.gif
TSandy
post Apr 23 2007, 12:47 AM

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You wanna start with something better than usual? I'm selling my ori-spec TT01D with TRF shocks and carbon upper deck, blue alu shaft and everything wink.gif PM me for price! and please come to a drift meet first la to see what you want for your RCdrifting needs
TSandy
post Apr 24 2007, 02:57 AM

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Ade la... brows.gif

fish_fryzzz, UGPM!
TSandy
post Apr 26 2007, 01:24 AM

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hmm, reading material eh.. never actually thought of it tongue.gif I guess you can try http://d1-10rc.com or http://www.rctech.net
TSandy
post May 25 2007, 11:34 PM

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Go fr an Eagle Pocket Charger, it can go up to 5amps and wont cost you a bomb at about RM200 for the charger, and you'll need a transformer which will cost about RM70. Only con to this charger is that there's no LCD, but with feature comes price smile.gif

if you charge at the max of 5 amps, then it loads current into the cell at 5 amps per 100mAH step if I'm not mistaken, but generally every cell takes about 30-45 minutes to fully charge smile.gif

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