Wiring goes straight down from gravity then I run the wires along the passenger side straight to the 2 USB ports. Since its not a dedicated dash cam, needs to be manually started. Takes about 3-5 seconds to start. Phone is used if you want to change settings or watch/download files. Power button can toggle video mode, camera mode or of held for 1-2 seconds then it offs the device. Shutter button starts/stops recording or takes a picture.

What I normally do is, key to acc, on cam, put on seat belt, start engine, by this time the camera should be fully on then press record.

I have ordered 2 yi cams before. My colleagues one is from here while mine cant be found anymore from that seller on lazada. I choose Yi cam mainly because after viewing the video comparisons, sj cam seems to be more bluish and from dark to bright transition(eg exiting a tunnel) you can really see the image brightness changing. Also to me the Yi cam seems to have better video quality. I considered the SJ cam due to the screen and it comes with accessories but upon further thinking, you dont keep changing your settings every time you are using your dash cam. Its normally configured once then left as it is.

Not sure if SJ cam has firmware updates or not but yi cam has from time to time to add more features and fix problems(if any).

Yi cam wifi problem was old problem and long since solve already in firmware update.

Heres a collection of dashcams recently reviewed. Remember that dashcams differ from action cams in several ways so if you are just aiming to leave it in your car then I recommend a dashcam as it makes your life easier.

Try normal drive then try speeding then try finding a long road and perform emergency brake test(Speed up to 80kmph then slam on the brakes) then try performing an elk test.

reverse sensor proton said that it was initially factory calibrated till over sensitive so this year in June they have already resolved the issue. Any car manufactured before they got the factory to fix it will have this issue.

If hp/torque matters and you can wait then must as well get the 1.3 Turbo. Hopefully by early next year it will be launched.

Sticky dash is due to the thing that proton applies onto it before storage.
Water entering, thats the first time we are hearing it here. Go send to sc to get them to check.

there is no lever inside. Just a button at the boot. Basically get exec if you need 2 extra speakers, body kit(which im sure is not important for u), adjustable rear headrest, rear wiper, 2 middle usb slots(they have a 1.5A and 2.0 or was it 2.5A slot[most modern day phones charge at more than 1A except iPhone which still uses 1A afaik]), boot light and a few other things. To me its worth getting it.

link or images? Don't get what you mean by mini turbo. Is it those fans that you plug to your intake to try and push more air in or a low boost turbo?

I believe its because they want a car with good fc. From what I hear, Myvi and Iriz have not much difference in that aspect.

For 1.3 people like me, we use OBD. More useful especially when you can plot graphs for all kinds of info.

Actually no sarcasm was involved... lol

There are various types of OBD. Some have like a controller, some just Bluetooth, some need to connect to pc. I am using a Bluetooth one. Just connect it to the OBD port which is located below the steering at the foot area. You have to bend down to actually see it. I believe it looks like a white colour thing with 2 rows of holes for the pins to enter. Basically it connects to the cars ECU to get various readings, radiator temperature, speed, CO2 emissions, 0-100, 1/4 mile, engine RPM, etc. I use mine to record 0-100, 80-120, 1/4 mile, engine coolant temperature, horse power at the wheels, speed, torque and engine load. First 3 readings are normally high because I have never tried doing either. Just normal drive. Basically you can get readings based on what the OBD can capture and what your ECU can report. BTW data is immediately transferred to my phone using the app called Torque Pro. Oh yah, almost forgot to mention, it can actually get the error/fault codes if your check engine light is on and can clear fault codes.

Actually, I'm quite young. See my reply to the comment above.
How it looks like? Mine looks similar to this:

plug and play: yeap.
cost: I shipped it from China. Price in RM i believe was around 30. There is a club member selling one that can provide readings to the display. Maybe you can check his one out. See signatures for someone selling OBD.
what can this device show: mentioned a few in the reply above.
BTW if you look at the foot area at the drivers side, you probably should be able to see the port. Looks something like this(note that this is not an Iriz. Pic just taken from internet for reference)

I first ordered this due to 1 time I couldnt start engine. Eventually engine started but was worried cuz there was the check engine light on. I wanted to go to SC the next day but on the way there the check engine light went off so I drove back home. From time to time especially when I drive long distance, I would like to know my engine stats. Check whats my max coolant temperature, max RPM, top speed@RPM etc. If want to use for performance also can but I dont have a long straight empty road to use so I never tried to get 0-100, 1/2 mile , 80-120 times. I'm a safe guy so it wanna do very risky things gotta find a track.

I believe thats tar. There is a reason it is applied there but I agree that overtime, dust build up there will make it dirty looking. I just leave it thou.

I do have a bottle of wheel cleaner. I just spray it on, give it a few minutes then use a brush to brush the dirt off before rinsing it with water.

I cant say much as I dont have much knowledge on that. My guess would be to prevent rusting and prevent stones from chipping away the paint/anti rust.

I remember they hypermiled by going at about 60kmph. I think that it is possible to get about 600 km. I once managed to get 16km/l based on fuelly. Was at Camerons so had a bit of mountain roads. The next day drove back to KL cruising at about 120km/h. Reach Subang with still plenty of fuel. Managed to drive to and back from work for a few days before I needed that fuel up. I should try driving down to Johor for fun just to see whats the car's limit.

Just made appointment for 10k service.
Issues gonna bring up:
1. AC smelly when blower on but ac off.
2. When wet, suspension has creaking sound.
3. Dashboard sometimes have bunyi tikus. Does anyone know when this occurs?
4. Steering on bumpy roads or turning rattles.
5. Drivers door minor rattle.
6. Front passengers door has creaking sound when opening.
7. Drivers side sun visor split.
8. Replace reverse sensors. Mine is 2014 model so the sensors are not the latest one(*fixed the oversensitiveness of it).

Iriz is using timing chain not belt.
No need to change. Just need checking every 100k km iirc according to the manual.

Issue is mine sometimes suddenly beeps rapidly and when theres no longer an obstacle in the way then it still keeps beeping. According to Proton's Talk with Proton CTO in the Q&A session, I highlighted this issue to the Proton CTO and quite a number of PICM members agreed that theirs had problems. Their electrical engineer or smtg came up and said that its a known issue where the factory tuned settings were too sensitive.

no 6 I know I can do that. I have several cans of that at home and I used it for my old saga to solve that problem. Saje wanna bring up at sc.

no 2 can DIY repair. For COE when I made booking yesterday morning, they said no more slots were available till 11/11(which should be 10/11 in the US if ur gonna play Fallout 4) onwards.

For me, EO I probably plan to switch to mineral because I am only now at 5.1k km and at the 6 months/10 000 km which ever comes first service. Feel that its wasted getting semi syn cuz it doesnt benefit me much.

Is the put the gear in R for 1.6 only? I dont recall hearing any servo sounds apart from the lock guns after locking my car. Don't recall reading that in the manual either(I should check again but manual is always left in the car and car is parked quite far).

Probably can ask them on whats the procedure like to fix problem x and if they dunno then ask to speak to a technician. Hope they can sort these things out for you. COE is close to proton parts center so most things should be within a day to get the parts.

I experienced this when collecting my car. Sent immediately to SC then they removed the middle brake light cover and 1 of those rubber covers and fixed the thing back in.

Guys, my dad is selling off his DRB-Hicom discount voucher. Can get additional discount of up to RM1000 for Iriz. Whoever who is interested can pm me.

Remove the plastic cover covering the middle brake light. Its only clipped on. Somewhere near the spray, theres a black rectangular rubber piece. Remove it. Find the hose and place it back. It might be wrapped in sponge to prevent it from hammering on the metal when car rattles.

Not sure if it needs to be pressing the clutch when that happens as clutch has no connections to the steering but i believe its due to wires hammering on the steering. I have this when going slow on uneven roads or taking a slow turn.