number plate from jpj the rm210 is not included in downpayment right?

Btw runner fees = Once u buy number from jpj, hand it to your SA, then SA will need to register your number plate to your car (engine+chasis no.) at jpj along with a valid motor insurance. Then only your car will be registered under JPJ and get the road tax. So instead of going 1 by 1 to jpj, they collect it one shot give the runner who will then go to JPJ to do all the car registration stuffs. That's the runner fee. (included in downpayment already)

Example: If you didn't buy number plate on your own and ask your SA to get it, SA will pass the job to the runner to go jpj buy it and will usually charge RM310 for it.

This post has been edited by LordDenning: Oct 5 2015, 09:52 PM

hahah no bro. All these jobs usually distributed to runner to do one. Most car dealerships have their own appointed runner to do JPJ-related stuffs. It saves the dealer time, instead of having to go jpj for each and every car they sell.


Btw, SA still have to check your car before can deliver to you to make sure everything is fine with the car. So maybe thats why u wont get it exactly the next day after your road tax is done. Then if your SA got give free tinting all those, he have to send the car go tinting as well. So it takes few more days.

Personally for me, I rather wait few more days and let SA kaotim everything properly than to rush him. If you rush him he may not do a satisfactory job, in the end, you lose because problems may occur, SA also lose cause his reputation on the line (with exception of some salesman who are really those couldn't be bothered type who dont care at all and just want to close sales.)

This post has been edited by LordDenning: Oct 5 2015, 10:08 PM

yep maintaining/cruising speed at 110~120km/k around 3k rpm.

So..

CVT:-

1.3: 2k rpm = 80km/h & 3k rpm = 110km/h
1.6: 2k rpm = 85km/h & 3k rpm = 120km/h

Seems about right as official stated top speed for 1.3 is 160km/h & for 1.6 is 170km/h

EDIT: Also I did some test with the car and got these results for 1.3 CVT. From 80km/h @ 2k rpm onwards, +- around 300 rpm for every 10km/h increase. So 90km/h around 2.3k rpm, 100km/h around 2.6krpm


Maybe someone else can compile for MT 1.3 & 1.6 then can pin @ 1st page.
MT official stated top speed for 1.3 is 165km/h & for 1.6 is 175km/h

This post has been edited by LordDenning: Oct 6 2015, 09:39 PM

On a side note: Driving at more than 100km/h the car is solid as hell. No vibrations at all! No vibrations at the engine bay/hood, no vibrations at the steering wheel, no vibrations at the doors/body of the car. I feel safe & secured driving at that speed. Steering tightens nicely too, so it feels very grippy to the road.

nope. locking/unlocking no sound. But the alarm does work. and it's bleeping loud, contrary to the car horn which is damn mild =.= Speaking of other mild things, the reverse sensor is very mild too.(worse than mild actually. With radio on @ volume 5+ cant even hear the reverse sensor clearly)

EDIT: Btw how much the new tyres cost you before/after trade-in?

This post has been edited by LordDenning: Oct 7 2015, 05:36 AM

may I ask where are you from then? and also congrats! From one Iriz owner to another, I too hope our cars able serve us for a long time without giving much headache.

and on your last point, if Proton did as much homework on their quality control as they did when building with Iriz, then it would truly make Malaysians proud of Proton for once. Quality control is still the bane of Proton. But nonetheless, if you see from Preve to Suprima and now Iriz, they've made considerable improvements and the future looks promising for Proton if they keep up the good work.

This post has been edited by LordDenning: Oct 7 2015, 05:37 AM

Thanks for posting this. So if my first 1k service i use semi-syn, then can skip 5k service?

Initially i thought of doing first 1k service (semi-syn), then 5k service (semi-syn) then 10k service (semi-syn). After 10k onwards, service every 10k, so next service will be 20k. Semi-syn oil for all.

I might just follow what I stated above. Cause I feel it would help keep the engine cleaner after 1k service and not drag it too far to 10k as the car is still new. After 10k service only follow back the recommended service-cycle for semi-syn oil which is 10k km.
^ Any benefit like I stated above of doing that 5k service? Or it's just a psychological thing and doesn't really affect the car. Depending on what other's thoughts on this, i might/might not skip 5k service then.

1.3 Owners what tyre pressure you guys use? 210kpa / 30psi ?

great minds think alike Maybe can follow bro adijib's reply below. 220.

btw you did 1k service already?

Why when wanna go outstation or heavy rain set at 210 and other times 220? Idk about all these tyre pressure stuffs.

My basic understanding of tyre pressure is (do share knowledge & correct me if wrong):

1) Higher tyre pressure = will give better FC but ride will be bumpier?
2) pump tyres when car haven't travel around? If car traveled quite some distance, must increase by how much kpa/psi over the usual?

This post has been edited by LordDenning: Oct 8 2015, 11:27 PM

i first day of driving itself already dashboard rattle. I guess it affects 90% of Iriz and the other 10% are lucky people like bro cwkc93.

My 4x4 bolts all no rust though. But that 1 u can go SC change it.

do you guys inflate all 4 tyres evenly or front higher than rear?

e.g. 220kpa for all 4 wheels vs 220kpa for front & 210kpa for rear.

nope, no solutions found. But what I know is, if you place your palm on the left-side dashboard (near the airbag place) and apply some pressure, the rattling stops..

the radio can be set. got 2 settings. Last volume used or default volume.
Go read the radio manual.

EDIT: okay just realised others have told u same thing already.

This post has been edited by LordDenning: Oct 10 2015, 09:30 PM

I find the engine braking too aggressive for my liking..

Often times in these 2 situations:
1) When approaching a red light or when you saw the light just turned red, your car is carrying enough speed to cruise beyond the traffic light, so you pull your foot off the accelerator and start pressing the brakes, then engine braking kicks in and stops the car earlier than expected and haven't even reach the traffic light, so have to accelerate up again to the traffic light...

2)When going over speed bumps. Same story. When you think your car is moving with enough momentum to go over the bump, so you lift off the accelerator pedal and brake lightly, then the car slows down tremendously before u even reach the bump and now has not enough momentum to go over the bump, so again you need to accelerate...


anyway wanna ask, when you guy steer the car, does the steering like gives more "room" after you initially fully turn the steering wheel? Like you steer all the way to the right (while the car is moving, for example when making a u-turn) then after that the steering somehow can still turn a lil bit more to the right.

This post has been edited by LordDenning: Oct 11 2015, 01:16 AM

Also, just wondering, how do you guys start your car?

Do you :
A) Turn key from Off position to Acc/On then only to Start.
or
B) Turn key from Off position to Start straight.

I personally do B.

Yep. when car is stationary the extra "room" seems like not there. Only when doing tight turning(where steering fully turned) like u-turns and going up parking ramps, then the steering will have extra "room". Lol.

Anyone else notice the same thing as us?

as for 1 & 2, I think it's cvt+engine characteristic. Btw, what do you mean by over brake? Don't understand that..

and yes, do test and see whether you notice the steering gives more "room" when you are doing tight turning like u-turn or entering parking ramps.

as for starting engine, I always do B. Nothing wrong right if straight start car from Off position and don't stop at Acc/On before starting car?

While driving in very heavy rain yesterday I found out a cool feature of the wipers? (I think)

When raining you turn on your wipers to Normal/High Speed, when the car is moving the wiper speed will work as intended, normal will be normal, high will be high. But lets say when you reach a traffic light and stop, the wiper speed will slow down a lil bit. Then when green light you move forward, the wiper speed climbs back up.

3.09% @ 7yrs from PBB.