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Model Kits Gundam & Mecha modelling thread V37, Ver Revive

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General_Nic
post Aug 21 2015, 07:00 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Aug 21 2015, 05:23 PM)
I still dont get the hype on bf series especially the chathedral gundam. The design is very blant but maybe I didnt watch the series so I only judge solely on the design.
*
the hype is the battle scenes only, it gets your blood boiling(or burning? laugh.gif)
for Cathedral, everyone has their tastes, if not no point having so many Gundam universes and designs lol

example, I love bulky MSes like Ex-S and FAZZ, but some people don't get why I like bricks, they prefer sleek and high speed types

QUOTE(advocado @ Aug 21 2015, 05:33 PM)
how long does it take for wet acrylic paint to dry? i sprayed a wet layer to get the gloss look more than 24hrs it's dry doesn't stick however will leave finger prints when i hold it.
*
QUOTE(heally82 @ Aug 21 2015, 05:44 PM)
not sure about acylic but my lacquer took me 3 days for the paint to fully cure, 24hours would still leave finger print but still ok to apply water decals
*
dudes, that's way too thick sweat.gif sweat.gif sweat.gif
acrylics and lacquers are well known for their fast drying and curing time
It's safe to start masking or assembling 10-15 mins after painting with acrylics or lacquers, but if wanna be safe, usually wait for an hour is more than enough
if you guys need to wait more than a day, it's not right
TheEvilMan
post Aug 21 2015, 07:39 PM

囧囧囧囧囧囧囧囧囧囧囧囧
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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Aug 21 2015, 07:00 PM)
the hype is the battle scenes only, it gets your blood boiling(or burning? laugh.gif)
for Cathedral, everyone has their tastes, if not no point having so many Gundam universes and designs lol

example, I love bulky MSes like Ex-S and FAZZ, but some people don't get why I like bricks, they prefer sleek and high speed types
dudes, that's way too thick sweat.gif sweat.gif sweat.gif
acrylics and lacquers are well known for their fast drying and curing time
It's safe to start masking or assembling 10-15 mins after painting with acrylics or lacquers, but if wanna be safe, usually wait for an hour is more than enough
if you guys need to wait more than a day, it's not right
*
u got good taste, i like bricks too
heally82
post Aug 21 2015, 08:36 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Aug 21 2015, 07:00 PM)
the hype is the battle scenes only, it gets your blood boiling(or burning? laugh.gif)
for Cathedral, everyone has their tastes, if not no point having so many Gundam universes and designs lol

example, I love bulky MSes like Ex-S and FAZZ, but some people don't get why I like bricks, they prefer sleek and high speed types
dudes, that's way too thick sweat.gif sweat.gif sweat.gif
acrylics and lacquers are well known for their fast drying and curing time
It's safe to start masking or assembling 10-15 mins after painting with acrylics or lacquers, but if wanna be safe, usually wait for an hour is more than enough
if you guys need to wait more than a day, it's not right
*
Huh sorry for didn't further elaborate mine is 1 coat of prime 1 coat of glossy black and another coat of metallic color all in a go. It's safe for u to put another coat within minutes but assemble them usually 3 day mainly because 2 day I apply water slides and third day top coat then an hour later assemble them. My exp is 24hrs later will still leave slight finger print but able to remove by eye glass cloth wiping (with a bit of force)
Nawar
post Aug 21 2015, 09:31 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Aug 21 2015, 07:39 PM)
u got good taste, i like bricks too
*
oh.. my.. i just remembered i bought a MG gouf custom... and it taught it would be pose able even though the armor is bulky...
ended up its a brick with that heavy shield gattling gun..
D-y
post Aug 21 2015, 10:54 PM

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for some reason I think the claw is a bit oversize hmm.gif
but it looks good though
user posted image

also anyone else notice there's no Ver. Ka kits so far this year?

This post has been edited by D-y: Aug 21 2015, 10:56 PM
SUSadvocado
post Aug 21 2015, 11:09 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Aug 21 2015, 07:00 PM)
the hype is the battle scenes only, it gets your blood boiling(or burning? laugh.gif)
for Cathedral, everyone has their tastes, if not no point having so many Gundam universes and designs lol

example, I love bulky MSes like Ex-S and FAZZ, but some people don't get why I like bricks, they prefer sleek and high speed types
dudes, that's way too thick sweat.gif sweat.gif sweat.gif
acrylics and lacquers are well known for their fast drying and curing time
It's safe to start masking or assembling 10-15 mins after painting with acrylics or lacquers, but if wanna be safe, usually wait for an hour is more than enough
if you guys need to wait more than a day, it's not right
*
15mins, you are serious? i use thin layer brush stroke also takes few hours to dry. if it's just mist coat 20mins should be safe. but you can't do that for wet coats.
SUSadvocado
post Aug 21 2015, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Aug 21 2015, 05:44 PM)
not sure about acylic but my lacquer took me 3 days for the paint to fully cure, 24hours would still leave finger print but still ok to apply water decals
*
will the finger print be noticeable once you gloss coat it with future? you leave it room temp or use aircon/heater?
TheAdmiral
post Aug 21 2015, 11:23 PM

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QUOTE(D-y @ Aug 21 2015, 10:54 PM)
for some reason I think the claw is a bit oversize hmm.gif
but it looks good though
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


also anyone else notice there's no Ver. Ka kits so far this year?
*
its missing its wings n pew pew lazer tail.
mf_yamato
post Aug 21 2015, 11:33 PM

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QUOTE(TheAdmiral @ Aug 21 2015, 11:23 PM)
its missing its wings n pew pew lazer tail.
*
Most probably p-bandai hahahaha
General_Nic
post Aug 21 2015, 11:59 PM

D5000 fully loaded n ready to shoot~!!
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QUOTE(heally82 @ Aug 21 2015, 08:36 PM)
Huh sorry for didn't further elaborate mine is 1 coat of prime 1 coat of glossy black and another coat of metallic color all in a go. It's safe for u to put another coat within minutes but assemble them usually 3 day mainly because 2 day I apply water slides and third day top coat then an hour later assemble them. My exp is 24hrs later will still leave slight finger print but able to remove by eye glass cloth wiping (with a bit of force)
*
still too long, a lot of modellers can start work in the morning and finish everything by night.
even with enamels which are notorious for slow drying, are adviced by manufacturer to wait 24 hours for it to cure only.

QUOTE(Nawar @ Aug 21 2015, 09:31 PM)
oh.. my.. i just remembered i bought a MG gouf custom... and it taught it would be pose able even though the armor is bulky...
ended up its a brick with that heavy shield gattling gun..
*
because MG Gouf Custom is still using the 1.0 frame
been waiting for Bandai to make MG Gouf Custom 2.0 sad.gif

QUOTE(advocado @ Aug 21 2015, 11:09 PM)
15mins, you are serious? i use thin layer brush stroke also takes few hours to dry. if it's just mist coat 20mins should be safe. but you can't do that for wet coats.
*
serious yes
even when I was using spraycans, even wet coats dried up and safe to handle after an hour

QUOTE(mf_yamato @ Aug 21 2015, 11:33 PM)
Most probably p-bandai hahahaha
*
worst case scenario, hobby magazine add-ons whistling.gif whistling.gif whistling.gif

This post has been edited by General_Nic: Aug 22 2015, 12:00 AM
heally82
post Aug 22 2015, 12:16 AM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Aug 21 2015, 11:10 PM)
will the finger print be noticeable once you gloss coat it with future? you leave it room temp or use aircon/heater?
*
If you leave the finger print without rectifying it yes, usually after 1night ( or with my DIY oven 15mins) the finger print should easily be removed.

QUOTE(General_Nic @ Aug 21 2015, 11:59 PM)
still too long, a lot of modellers can start work in the morning and finish everything by night.
even with enamels which are notorious for slow drying, are adviced by manufacturer to wait 24 hours for it to cure only.
because MG Gouf Custom is still using the 1.0 frame
been waiting for Bandai to make MG Gouf Custom 2.0 sad.gif
serious yes
even when I was using spraycans, even wet coats dried up and safe to handle after an hour
worst case scenario, hobby magazine add-ons whistling.gif whistling.gif whistling.gif
*
Then I think should be different brand of paints used, I used all china xunin paints, last time I use mr hobby was felt a bit dry compare to xunin even with thinner than have retarder in it. Seriously my painted kits are not thick at all (mostly because I'm cheapskate) because using tamiya coarse polisher can eat through easily if too much force use... But your 15mins dry time does amaze me because most Plamo japan videos I watched only handle their painted kits after 15mins curing time with small oven or may be they just playing careful.
SUSadvocado
post Aug 22 2015, 12:35 AM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Aug 22 2015, 12:16 AM)
If you leave the finger print without rectifying it yes, usually after 1night ( or with my DIY oven 15mins) the finger print should easily be removed.
Then I think should be different brand of paints used, I used all china xunin paints, last time I use mr hobby was felt a bit dry compare to xunin even with thinner than have retarder in it. Seriously my painted kits are not thick at all (mostly because I'm cheapskate) because using tamiya coarse polisher can eat through easily if too much force use... But your 15mins dry time does amaze me because most Plamo japan videos I watched only handle their painted kits after 15mins curing time with small oven or may be they just playing careful.
*
how to remove the fingerprints?

is it possible to polish with just finish compound? coarse & fine what is the big difference? i tried wet sand 2000P seems will sand off the paint. what about those car polisher are they closer to finish or fine compound since they are designed to remove light scratches on cars.
mdshaman
post Aug 22 2015, 12:48 AM

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user posted image

The kit itself is P-Bandai. Surrounded by previous / upcoming P-Bandai releases.
*sigh*

General_Nic
post Aug 22 2015, 12:54 AM

D5000 fully loaded n ready to shoot~!!
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QUOTE(heally82 @ Aug 22 2015, 12:16 AM)
If you leave the finger print without rectifying it yes, usually after 1night ( or with my DIY oven 15mins) the finger print should easily be removed.
Then I think should be different brand of paints used, I used all china xunin paints, last time I use mr hobby was felt a bit dry compare to xunin even with thinner than have retarder in it. Seriously my painted kits are not thick at all (mostly because I'm cheapskate) because using tamiya coarse polisher can eat through easily if too much force use... But your 15mins dry time does amaze me because most Plamo japan videos I watched only handle their painted kits after 15mins curing time with small oven or may be they just playing careful.
*
15mins is truly workable, but as you said, to play safe, most advice wait 30mins to an hour
but when really can't wait, oven is a play safe option too

I know a modeller who has always been using enamels, so he's used to let the paint to dry for hours
when he first used lacquers, he was extremely surprised that he can handle them within minutes

QUOTE(advocado @ Aug 22 2015, 12:35 AM)
how to remove the fingerprints?

is it possible to polish with just finish compound? coarse & fine what is the big difference? i tried wet sand 2000P seems will sand off the paint. what about those car polisher are they closer to finish or fine compound since they are designed to remove light scratches on cars.
*
depends how deep the fingerprint is
if it's just a print, as in like a layer of print visible under reflection of light, then yes, can polish away
if it's a deep print, like a footprint in mud, which you can feel the uneven surface, then no, you'll need to sand it down

if you want a perfect, mirror like, 99% defect-free shiny surface, then you gotta polish 3 times, from Course compound, to Fine, lastly Finish
it's the same concept as sandpaper, moving from lower grit to higher grit

car polisher can produce same result as hobby compound, but most of them are very corrosive, since they are suppose to work on industrial strength car paints, it might just wipe off the whole paint layer

QUOTE(mdshaman @ Aug 22 2015, 12:48 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The kit itself is P-Bandai. Surrounded by previous / upcoming P-Bandai releases.
*sigh*
*
totally potong stim loooooooool

unless Bandai is taking a weird direction, this 'movie' version is P-Bandai, while the GoTL version with wings and back cannon is normal releasein

This post has been edited by General_Nic: Aug 22 2015, 12:56 AM
heally82
post Aug 22 2015, 01:02 AM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Aug 22 2015, 12:35 AM)
how to remove the fingerprints?

is it possible to polish with just finish compound? coarse & fine what is the big difference? i tried wet sand 2000P seems will sand off the paint. what about those car polisher are they closer to finish or fine compound since they are designed to remove light scratches on cars.
*
If the finger print is not deep and it's done after paint has cured for sometime there is hope to polish it off. I do have exp of leaving finger print right after minutes of paint job done and try assemble them leaving finger prints while snapping the parts. That require me to put another layer of paint after polish it.

Coarse is equal to 800 grade of sand paper if not mistaken just that polisher compound can do a better job on painted surface ( less in depth scratches) the finer the compound the less worry when polishing your kit with force (usually with fine compound I put full force and there's time I got finger blisters.

Many try alternatives such as car polisher and even Colgate can do the job, like I always said get your little spoon to test it out and get a grip of how new stuff works.

Just learned that MGM brand top coat ( in direct translate should be cold bake top coat paint) it's a liquid epoxy that will gives you mirror like glossy finish without tough polishing. But require a lot of thinning, didn't try it on spoon and it spoiled my diablo gundam...

Spoon is my life saver now...
D-y
post Aug 22 2015, 02:32 AM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Aug 22 2015, 12:54 AM)
totally potong stim loooooooool

unless Bandai is taking a weird direction, this 'movie' version is P-Bandai, while the GoTL version with wings and back cannon is normal releasein
*
so I'm guessing the normal one will be following the tv series colour (different claws though) then considering that version does include the wings and cannon laugh.gif
if it's the same colour then might as well get the normal release
mf_yamato
post Aug 22 2015, 07:39 AM

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Been airbrushing for quite number of kits, by time i wanna spray another part, the part i spray before dried already... Airbrush rule...
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post Aug 22 2015, 10:09 AM

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Superrrrr Fumina!

http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2015/08/hgbf...play-chara.html
:3mushy:3
post Aug 22 2015, 10:14 AM

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Yeah we all saw that coming laugh.gif
memphiz_zero88
post Aug 22 2015, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Aug 22 2015, 10:14 AM)
Yeah we all saw that coming laugh.gif
*
I want PG.

With Cast Off mode brows.gif

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