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Model Kits Gundam & Mecha modelling thread V37, Ver Revive

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SUSadvocado
post Aug 10 2015, 10:21 PM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Aug 10 2015, 12:46 PM)
search from taobao got lots of sazabi cheap bazooka choices, you should wonder whether want to get the twin gattling gun pack only coz its damn expensive...
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do you know where got sell tubing? my 6x4mm tubing deteriorated everytime i slide the tube into the regulator outlet the metal crimps just cut the tube when i'm using it. the tube still ok can bend no problem but metal crimps literally cut the tube off. will wrapping aluminum fold around the area help? coz i never seen small tubings on sale, and i don't know how to shrink the tail end to hold the metal connector tightly.
SUSadvocado
post Aug 10 2015, 10:25 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Aug 10 2015, 12:16 AM)
WIP: Sazabi ver.Ka
done 1st coat, next is decals

user posted image
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you just leave them sitting on a table after a coat? aren't you suppose to hang them on sticks so you can coat 95% of the area in 1 go?
SUSadvocado
post Aug 11 2015, 10:19 AM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Aug 11 2015, 08:55 AM)
I did hang for abt 20mins after coat then only store them cos lazy to decals atm haha
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20 minutes...
SUSadvocado
post Aug 12 2015, 11:36 PM

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QUOTE(ralph_d @ Aug 11 2015, 02:22 PM)
i never build any titanium kits before but i build the gold plated HGUC hyaku shiki
the 'Hyaku' word is using dry transfer, and I didn't see any scratch on the gold plated surface after i apply it
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you're not suppose to scratch when applying dry transfer, just apply pressure on the whole decal, and peel off slowly so if there's incomplete transfer put back and apply pressure again, scratch might actually cause the decal to stick on the transfer sheet if you put too much force.
SUSadvocado
post Aug 12 2015, 11:38 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Aug 11 2015, 05:49 PM)
that is the reason i still wondering if i should get normal sinanju or titanium for next build, titanium would be nice but the decals will probably damaged in long run, the ver.ka has rich details but lack of bazooka, while ova ver come with half sheet of stickers, which is a no for me sad.gif
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use future floor finish, it's non-corrosive so it won't eat away the chrome. i've used it on transparent parts apart from making it look clearer & shinier i don't see any issues.
SUSadvocado
post Aug 12 2015, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE(sleep_snore @ Aug 12 2015, 06:10 PM)
i think you should mention the left one.. nod.gif
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i think the middle one looks better. too much detail doesn't always mean better.
SUSadvocado
post Aug 15 2015, 09:44 PM

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1/35 Head? Saw it in a hobby shop but not built. you should be able to tell if it fits 1/100.

user posted image

user posted image

QUOTE(Nawar @ Aug 15 2015, 12:59 AM)
Have anyone build or seen this...? will the extra space fit a MG Zaku?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
This post has been edited by advocado: Aug 15 2015, 09:57 PM
SUSadvocado
post Aug 16 2015, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(Nawar @ Aug 15 2015, 10:30 PM)
thanks for the ref.. i think dont fit nicely... partial one leg on the right base only...
there's another version that comes with char's zaku head n rx78-2 rg size.. meaning rg size well fitting for this...

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depends how you display it, if angled there's enough space for both legs.
SUSadvocado
post Aug 16 2015, 10:25 PM

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QUOTE(SpideyKuma @ Aug 16 2015, 02:16 PM)
I wonder if anyone can help me but does anyone know where I can purchase this product in Malaysia?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Plasti-Dip-Glossifier/23969043
It's to give plastic a glossy shine.

Thank you in advance!
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never seen this in Ace Hardware, it's designed to gloss coat Plasti-Dip paints, if you aren't using Plasti-Dip colors, just use Future Floor which is available in Ace Hardware, or just Mr.Hobby Gloss Coat.
SUSadvocado
post Aug 17 2015, 09:02 PM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Aug 16 2015, 04:08 PM)
That's why most of my 90's kits can't get anymore, p bandai doesn't get my attention if it's just color and minor customizations.
Most of my kit direct from japan so regardless 1batch or not still same price. Some hg even cheaper at mandarake if you don't mind the minor box imperfections.
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what is the best psi & nozzle opening for 0.3mm airbrush if i want to get smooth glossy finish, and what distance?

coz i know for future floor to give mirror like finish the surface has to be smooth, if surface has those airbrush particle pattern very difficult for future floor to get smooth mirror finish even if i put 5 coats of future floor, and i don't want to sand it after paint since easy to sand off the paint too much.
SUSadvocado
post Aug 17 2015, 10:13 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Aug 17 2015, 09:15 PM)
Your problem is the paint drying up too fast, partially dried before it landed on your kit

For normal paints, you need to use leveling thinner or add retarder to extend the drying time

But I'm not sure it'll work with future floor
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my paint doesn't partially dry up before on kit, the surface is quite even, just you know there's those airbrush particle pattern when you airbrush which is what you normally want, but future floor needs very smooth surface or else it won't form a glossy coat no matter how thick i apply which i can't figure out the reason, it ends up like semi gloss, the future floor won't form a smooth finish.
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post Aug 17 2015, 10:15 PM

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btw is there anyway to fill up seamline and paint the parts separately? i know if you use normal putty fill up the gaps & sand it looks great but you can't separate it after that which is a problem if you have 2 different color pieces already assembled together and impossible to mask & spray separately if there's turning point.
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post Aug 20 2015, 09:33 AM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Aug 19 2015, 09:55 PM)
it is at 600 yen so what do you expect?
plus SD is clearly aimed at kids, dont even need to use tool to assemble
only twist the part out from runners, assemble, put stickers, done!

stickers is for small detail part which cant get molded into separate part
the major part is already color molded
try compare '90 SD and currently SD, so much different
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I'm working on a 90's SD Zeta, i can say the quality is much better than modern SD, maybe even better than latest SD. Most small parts that has separate colors comes in separate runners, weapons are not 1 piece with 1 side empty/partially empty, size are much bigger, mold quality are better, somemore comes with 3LED lights that can change color & batteries. There's few areas you need stickers or paint but compare to today's SD it's much better. The fittings are also better.
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post Aug 20 2015, 09:50 PM

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QUOTE(vkcy @ Aug 20 2015, 09:46 AM)
I feel classic SD are cute and have their own greatness.
Modern SD is not trying to add more articulation inside and slowly i feel its more of a smaller size of HG with a SD head.
Which i think slowly reducing its charm.
But if compare, recent SD added more things in but increase the "hollow" parts.
Most of the legs now are hollow.
Sangoku SD is my favorite as right size and have both cuteness and coolness.
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hollow parts = save cost, with production cost rising, they have to do so in order to keep the price same. if you don't like it you can always putty the hollow parts, not like you can see them if you look from the front.

or buy back older kits which are cheaper & better quality.
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post Aug 21 2015, 05:33 PM

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how long does it take for wet acrylic paint to dry? i sprayed a wet layer to get the gloss look more than 24hrs it's dry doesn't stick however will leave finger prints when i hold it.
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post Aug 21 2015, 11:09 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Aug 21 2015, 07:00 PM)
the hype is the battle scenes only, it gets your blood boiling(or burning? laugh.gif)
for Cathedral, everyone has their tastes, if not no point having so many Gundam universes and designs lol

example, I love bulky MSes like Ex-S and FAZZ, but some people don't get why I like bricks, they prefer sleek and high speed types
dudes, that's way too thick sweat.gif sweat.gif sweat.gif
acrylics and lacquers are well known for their fast drying and curing time
It's safe to start masking or assembling 10-15 mins after painting with acrylics or lacquers, but if wanna be safe, usually wait for an hour is more than enough
if you guys need to wait more than a day, it's not right
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15mins, you are serious? i use thin layer brush stroke also takes few hours to dry. if it's just mist coat 20mins should be safe. but you can't do that for wet coats.
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post Aug 21 2015, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Aug 21 2015, 05:44 PM)
not sure about acylic but my lacquer took me 3 days for the paint to fully cure, 24hours would still leave finger print but still ok to apply water decals
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will the finger print be noticeable once you gloss coat it with future? you leave it room temp or use aircon/heater?
SUSadvocado
post Aug 22 2015, 12:35 AM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Aug 22 2015, 12:16 AM)
If you leave the finger print without rectifying it yes, usually after 1night ( or with my DIY oven 15mins) the finger print should easily be removed.
Then I think should be different brand of paints used, I used all china xunin paints, last time I use mr hobby was felt a bit dry compare to xunin even with thinner than have retarder in it. Seriously my painted kits are not thick at all (mostly because I'm cheapskate) because using tamiya coarse polisher can eat through easily if too much force use... But your 15mins dry time does amaze me because most Plamo japan videos I watched only handle their painted kits after 15mins curing time with small oven or may be they just playing careful.
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how to remove the fingerprints?

is it possible to polish with just finish compound? coarse & fine what is the big difference? i tried wet sand 2000P seems will sand off the paint. what about those car polisher are they closer to finish or fine compound since they are designed to remove light scratches on cars.
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post Aug 22 2015, 06:42 PM

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what type of paint do factory use to paint their toys? seems can tahan hard scratches but model paint easily come off and also very thin despite thick coats.
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post Aug 25 2015, 10:25 PM

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anyone getting Nu Gundam Ka mechanical clear? rm320.

http://www.toypanic.com/toy.aspx?p=6713

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