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 Proton Prevรฉ V23, Livin la vida loca

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mengsuan
post Dec 14 2015, 08:18 AM

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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Dec 14 2015, 06:32 AM)
Nah I meant for Syntium, any Syntium is fine.

For dyno test, what is actually being tested?
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Dyno tests for torque and HP curve to show what is pattern of power delivery and the max of each.

I have yet to went for one to find out how much (or little) my car has after a few mods. So far it has only been driver's feel, but recently some mods have went in and it really felt significant across the whole RPM range.
mengsuan
post Dec 15 2015, 12:02 AM

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QUOTE(Doggystyle @ Dec 14 2015, 07:59 PM)
How is a bulk dyno TT arranged? And what is the typical dyno charge if go solo? Genuine curiosity.
Want to measure what is the default power before I plunk in some stuff in the future too.
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Might be able to get RM150-RM200 for 2-3 runs if you just want to get some readings. If you want to tune on the spot, you may need a lot more rounds, maybe about 10 runs.

Sometimes a car club organizes dyno day for the car club. With good deals, it may only cost around RM200 for 10 runs.

If your car is stock, nothing to tune, then just pay for 3 runs and get the readings.
mengsuan
post Dec 16 2015, 01:11 AM

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QUOTE(Jack234 @ Dec 15 2015, 12:32 PM)
Hi, is Preve a big shark for fuel consumption?
Iif yes, what make it use so much of fuel?
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Mine does average 8.5L/100KM. I wouldn't call it bad at all.

It's a heavy car after all.
mengsuan
post Dec 16 2015, 07:14 AM

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QUOTE(red4900 @ Dec 16 2015, 06:59 AM)
You driving it mostly highway?
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No, I live in Puchong. Everyday drive through jam either to Damansara or KL city center.
mengsuan
post Dec 17 2015, 08:47 PM

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QUOTE(ZooK @ Dec 17 2015, 05:27 PM)
Fixed this for RM1,122.80 yay!
Still ex I think but they bundled the windscreen and sensor for RM750.
+ Wash, Vacuum, and the windscreen comes with the Proton tint as well. NAIS!
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Good. It's not expensive at all. Which branch did you go to?
mengsuan
post Dec 25 2015, 04:19 PM

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QUOTE(myteam94 @ Dec 24 2015, 09:22 PM)
Guys
Im planning to do some modification to the preve
Should i change to R17 tyre or change the coilover and suspension
Because my front bumper always 'sweep' the road sometime at steep decline&incline/roadbumps/roadcurb
And which will improve ride comfort
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215/45/17 will make things worse, because overall diameter is a tad bit smaller.

Unless you do 225/45/17, which is just a tad bid bigger than your stock tyres.

You need to slow down. If you change to coilover adjustables, the comfort will be gone, but can reduce chances of scraping.

My car has to slow down to 0 when I go through ramps, because will surely get into contact.
mengsuan
post Dec 25 2015, 09:03 PM

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QUOTE(myteam94 @ Dec 25 2015, 06:48 PM)
So change the tyre will at least get a ground clearance is it?

The places i got scrape something are HKL new elevated carpark, my house ramps garage, 'disguise' potholes, some speedbump, my university hostel area, sideroad curb

My underbody got scrape too ๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿ˜ญ
Usually i slow sown to 10kmh or 0kmh depends on situation,
Sometime it pass through,sometime mesti kena scrape
๐Ÿ˜ž๐Ÿ˜ž๐Ÿ˜ž
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Then yours is extremely serious, especially with stock 16" rims.

I never hit anything on my undercarriage, only front bumpers.

My car is kinda scratchless, not even kerb rashes on rims. It takes a lot of care in driving to avoid any scratch or nicks.
mengsuan
post Dec 26 2015, 03:05 PM

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QUOTE(myteam94 @ Dec 26 2015, 12:41 PM)
Yupp because my house garage got 45' angle ramp and someplace like parking bay also got 45' angle ramps
My underbody so get scratch, my rims dont have scratch but my front bumper (all angle) got scratches though, mostly deep scratch
I will upload some pics.

Would you reconmend change trye?
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You are on stock 16" rim right? I don't know if there are any other fitting 16" tyres because I'm on 17".

The underside of my front bumper also full of scratches. What to do, still have to park at basement. Lol...


QUOTE(KB1 @ Dec 26 2015, 12:44 PM)
guys, may i ask how to adjust the headlight...

i found there's 3 screw over there, tried to adjust . but not working...wondering might be installed wrongly while changed bulb
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Usually a stock headlamp never needs adjustment unless someone go and meddle with it. It is factory calibrated using machine to ensure its angle is correct for both left and right lamp.

Installation of H7 bulb requires correct alignment of the tab. Incorrect installation will produce wrong focus, dim illumination and potentially burn the headlamp surface.

If the focus is correct, you should see a cat eye on the surface of the headlamp when you turn it on.
mengsuan
post Dec 27 2015, 11:28 AM

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QUOTE(KB1 @ Dec 26 2015, 11:15 PM)
Or better I ask the sc to rectify for me at the next service
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A lot of SC don't know how to install properly. I end up coming home and reinstalling it.
mengsuan
post Dec 27 2015, 12:48 PM

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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Dec 27 2015, 12:41 PM)
The right headlamp is quite tricky to reach, especially with a fat hand laugh.gif
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I must use the help of my phone's camera. My eyes can never see the position of the bulb in such awkward angle.
mengsuan
post Dec 27 2015, 02:19 PM

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QUOTE(imthebat @ Dec 27 2015, 02:08 PM)
Is there correct way to install the bulbs? Any tips please?
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I once uploaded a pictorial guide before, but I can't find my own upload.

There is a tab on the bulb, that you must insert accordingly to the bulb's slot.

Most importantly, never touch the glass with your hands. Once you touched it, it's going to blow very quickly.
mengsuan
post Dec 27 2015, 11:49 PM

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Yeah I agree with @SportyHandling. The springs of the Preve is quite stiff. The ride height maintains well for speed bumps and you should not hit the undercarriage. Just the front bumper overhang is too close to JPJ's specifications. Any road out of specs will hit it.
mengsuan
post Dec 29 2015, 09:18 AM

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QUOTE(incognito-mode @ Dec 29 2015, 09:13 AM)
Well, I think my driving style and traffic condition doesn't changed that much.

However, I forgot to tell that the first half (4 bars) of the fuel gauge only get me about 250+km mileage.
And now when it only left 2 bar it says 201km left? Isn't it confusing? Use 4 bars of fuel = Actual reading from trip 250+km. Left 2 bars smart meter says 201km.. hehe
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Please don't use bars and the remaining mileage as any form of accurate measurement.
mengsuan
post Dec 29 2015, 12:22 PM

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QUOTE(KB1 @ Dec 29 2015, 11:15 AM)
so true, the proper way should be dismantle the headlight first , maybe ?  hmm.gif
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No lah, not necessary.
mengsuan
post Jan 15 2016, 11:23 PM

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QUOTE(ChokenBako @ Jan 15 2016, 12:12 PM)
A search on the internet on subject matter doesn't gather much. It's pretty much only hearsay without any technical substance as to how actual damage could be done. So, it's more like human's nature, fearing the unknown.

I had done once before on an Exora Bold cfe a few years back, and the car is still fine today. I'm pretty sure that the gear was at "N" position when the on-wheel balancing was done. So, the gear was effectively disengaged from whatever spinning that was being done, no? Even if the gearbox was really being affected, is it so fragile that it can't withstand any stress for a mere 2-3mins of spinning? I can't remember clearly though if only one or two wheels were being lifted off the ground while the balancing was done. If I'm not mistaken, both front wheels were lifted. But even if only one wheel was lifted, how it would cause damage is everyone's guess. We've people mentioning about damaging the slip-differential mechanism, absence of lubrication, etc, etc, but there's just not a single explanation on the technical details. It'd be best if some technical people could clear the air once and for all if the hearsay damage is a fact or fiction.

Till then, it's up to us to decide what's the best for our cars.
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That's right, CVT does not disengage entirely in N, there are pulleys that are permanently spinning the belt. On normal driving situation, the transmission fluid is pumped with the drive of input power. There will be a concern of lubrication when letting the wheel spin freely, even especially if the engine is turned off during the on-wheel balancing.
mengsuan
post Jan 16 2016, 12:01 PM

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QUOTE(winners8 @ Jan 16 2016, 07:06 AM)
How about doing the on-wheel balancing with the engine running, but in "Neutral" gear.  It will be similar to cruising down a slope with engine running and gear in "Neutral", no?
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At least the CVT fluid pump is working a bit. Again, even on normal situation, putting N when cruising down a slope is not a good practice too. Again, it is a concern of lubrication to the gearbox. Hence we do not tow with the driving wheels on the ground.
mengsuan
post Jan 17 2016, 02:22 AM

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QUOTE(winners8 @ Jan 17 2016, 12:50 AM)
However, I have heard about the PROTON SC doing the skimming of the brake discs directly on the wheels.  So, in this case, for front wheels, it shouldn't be a good practice right?
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The speed of rotation is much faster for on wheel balancing.
mengsuan
post Jan 19 2016, 09:10 AM

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QUOTE(plumberly @ Jan 18 2016, 06:49 PM)
As per the manual, need to swap the wheels, front to back and back to front once 20,000 km is reached. Mine is nearly there.

AA
Do we do that at SC?

BB
Free?

CC
Do they also do wheel balancing as part of the wheel rotation? Or no need as long as I have not changed any thing on the wheels? But the tear and wear on the threads will result in some in-balance.

Thanks.
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Some SC can do it, some can't.
Not free, even in tyre shop is not free.
Optional.

The tyre swapping is entirely optional, although suggested. Check the tyres condition yourself and you can justify if a rotation is needed by the wear. I used to do it religiously, but I've learned that it is not necessary as long as there is no unusual/excessive wear.
mengsuan
post Jan 19 2016, 07:17 PM

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QUOTE(STC @ Jan 19 2016, 05:17 PM)
Hi guys,

According post #2
My car is CamPro IAFM+ just one month old. But the passenger side is beeping and blinking when seat belt is not fastened. Is mine CFE then?
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Maybe they just extended the safety feature including seat belt warning. But IAFM+ engine is certainly different from CFE.
mengsuan
post Jan 29 2016, 09:19 AM

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QUOTE(uk15029 @ Jan 28 2016, 10:51 AM)
break pad for prevee how much ya?
SC quote me rm420
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The price of brake pads from Proton is pricey. I am selling a whole set of my Preve front brakes, rotor, caliper and two sets of original brake pad which is still quite thick, for RM400 only.

I myself, have upgraded to bigger brakes to accompany Racechip S, AFPR, GFB DV+.

Anyone here joining the group dyno tomorrow?

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