How much you pay for the SE Pulser? It seems to perform the same function as the desulfator. Any significant improvement?

My concern is I don't drive daily, sometimes even only once a week and if I will leave the desulfator connected, eventually, instead of helping to desulfate, my battery may go flat, even though some desulfator models will have a cut-off working voltage at 12.2 Volts DC.

This post has been edited by winners8: May 12 2018, 09:11 PM

Actually there are 2 types of desulfation process: Active (pulse recharging) and Passive (pulse discharging). The former is more efficient, but must do it externally with the battery disconnected from the car, otherwise, the ECU and its relating circuits will get cooked because the charging voltage can go up to 18 volts DC or more. It's also more dangerous in the sense that the battery vents must be opened, otherwise, the charging battery risks exploding. There's a good video for this on Youtube

Passive (pulse discharging) desulfation is just the process of discharging the battery in pulse mode. Most passive desulfation products will have a minimum voltage limit whereby the circuit will stop the discharging if the battery will go below 12.2 volts DC so as to prevent an eventual flat battery. However, I think this method is not as effective as the Active method.

Desulfation is not indefinite and the battery will still fail eventually and would need to be replaced because the crystals being broken down will just fall to the bottom of the battery and won't be reverted to its useful form again. Also, the electrolyte will eventually gets weaker with each desulfation process.

I don't think it's Active desulfation because it's not charging the battery. The 13.3 Volts indication (where did you find this information?) could be its cut-off working voltage. So, practically, it'll only work when the engine is running because only then will the battery's voltage be raised to between 14.2 volts and 14.4 volts DC.

My CFE is already 3 years old but only 15,000 km. Every time when I asked about this OCH recall when I do my regular servicing, they will say must wait until at least 36,000 km. May I know where is it officially stated the "40,000 km or 2 years interval"?

Thanks, will check with them again during the next service and this time I'll go directly to their EON Service Centre instead of their authorized dealer.

Brother, I'm in JB, so it's quite impossible to go to COSE.

Thanks, will write an email to PROTONCARE to check with them. I've adhered strictly to the 6 monthly service interval since I'm using fully synthetic oil. Every time when I asked about the OCH replacement, they always said my mileage is not due yet.

I always write to this email: customercare@proton.com

Yes, PROTON's after sales service really sucks to the maximum. After I wrote my inquiry for the OCH replacement on my case, they replied and just asked me to go to the PROTON EDAR Service Center for my next service and bring this matter up with them. I had actually asked for a Letter of Authorization from PROTONCARE so that there will be no dispute in case they will refuse to replace for me since my mileage is currently only 15,000km. However, that stupid PROTONCARE just say that they will only issue the recall letter once and asked me to show the original recall letter to the PROTON EDAR Service Center. Luckily I still have the copy of that recall letter which was dated way back in 03 June 2016.

In this recall exercise, my opinion is that PROTON is not sincere in offering to its customers. A recall is meant for all vehicles in that particular model(s) within a specified manufacturing period, regardless of condition. How can they impose a 40,000km mileage before the recall can take effect? Where in this world has there been a "conditional recall exercise" from the other reputable automotive manufacturers?

My headlamps are also filled with water vapors after heavy downpours. I went to complain and instead of replacing them under warranty, they claimed that if the water vapors will go away after 30 minutes of switching ON the headlamps, then the free replacement cannot be warranted. I was like....wtf? This is ridiculous because unless the whole internal of the headlamp is flooded, otherwise, definitely the water vapors will clear away from the heat of the 30 minutes of usage. This is only to be expected. If they don't want to honor their bad quality, then just say so, instead of giving unreasonable freaking excuses. I used to own a RENAULT and with the same problems for the headlamps. They just replaced them under warranty with no questions asked whatsoever.

With this kind of bad after sales service and management, how can Mahathir even contemplates to start another PROTON Version 2 again? It can only be another disaster in the making. The management and its staff's mentality, attitude and approach, must all be very proactive towards its customers in order for any service oriented company to be successful. Otherwise, sadly, it's just back to the old days again and another big waste of tax payers' money.

I anticipate that should GEELY is eventually unable to change the status of PROTON's image, they may decide to relinquish and sell off their partnership as they had done with a gearbox manufacturer in Australia. Those Chinaman are very profit oriented and if they can't turn around their (joint) ventures to be profitable, they would rather bite the bullet and let it go.

This post has been edited by winners8: Jun 22 2018, 10:10 AM

Actually, you should stop driving and call for towing if the temperature is already near to the maximum. At the worse case scenario, piston seizure may occur and it'll cost a bomb to repair a seized engine.

Just replacing the radiator fan alone will cost over RM800?

The last time I spoke to their technician, they said that the material of the replaced OCH is still the same and it is recommended to change every 40,000km thereafter. The first replacement is given free due to the recall. So, I don't see where is the improvement?

Yes, if the high speed fan is running but the electro-magnetic clutch of the compressor is not engaged, then most likely is due to a faulty PANASONIC micro relay inside the fusebox. This micro relay is not those plug & play type. It's soldered on the underside of the fusebox, which must be dismantled to be able to access it.

That is the problem with PROTON. When the fault is a recurring fault, they should have worked on it and improve on its reliability or at least modify with a better rating one so that the newly replaced part will not have this same problem again a few years down the road. However, PROTON will just simply replace with an exact replacement part and expect the owner to tolerate a similar fault again a few years later. This applies to the Air-Con relay as well as the OCH, which have no improvement at all.

This post has been edited by winners8: Jun 28 2018, 03:00 PM

The shop selling the ANDROID HU may have the proper adapter. Otherwise, just forgo the original PREVE USB port as most ANDROID HU will also come with its own extended (cable) USB port, just like my case.

The optimal R134A gas pressure should be between 45 psi and 50 psi on the low pressure side. I just filled mine by myself last weekend since it's already 3 years old as it had dropped to about 42 psi, albeit still quite cold.

I too agree with you and I will also go against the general trend. Technically speaking, new tires should be in front so as to enable a better grip (of the road) and control of the vehicle during a skid or aquaplaning. Logically, isn't controlling the front of the vehicle is more important (and life saving) than controlling the rear? Unless someone can fully convince me technically, I'll still adhere to my own judgement and reasoning.

Many a time, our own judgement and approach (especially if based on sufficient experience) is better than the general trend. One example is the filling of the coolant in the radiator reservoir's tank. Those mechanics will always like to fill up to the "Maximum Indicator" level, which in most instances are already too much. It will then cause overflowing during a hot engine and eventual wastage of coolant. Subsequently, owners will continue to add by themselves until the same "Maximum Indicator" level again and the wastage of coolant repeats again. Eventually, the coolant concentration gets diluted with more plain water being added and the cooling system's protection is slowly diminished. For me, I will make a mark by myself on the coolant reservoir's tank after a few days of driving and thereafter, I'll only top up to this same level in future if needed. In this way, there won't be overflowing due to a hot engine and the coolant concentration can also be better maintained. The rare occasional top up is only required due to natural evaporation.

This post has been edited by winners8: Sep 3 2018, 11:59 AM

Yes, they talk about oversteer from the rear wheels, but I am of the opinion that this oversteer is applicable mainly for rear wheel drive vehicles which are mostly available only for those higher end cars. Overall, I still believe that having a better grip on the drive wheels (the PREVE is a front wheel drive vehicle) rather than the driven wheels should be appropriate. Anyway, that's just my own believe.

This post has been edited by winners8: Sep 3 2018, 12:11 PM

As a matter of fact and again from my own experience, the driven wheels usually last 3 times as long as the drive wheels, assuming all alignments and working pressures are in proper. I experienced this with all types of vehicles, including my own bicycle and motorcycle. So, why not new tires be installed on the drive wheels to provide a better grip at any time?

Theoretically, for a front wheel drive vehicle, if the traction and grip can be recovered as soon as aquaplaning has occurred on its front wheels, the rear (driven) wheels will quickly get "in-line" again because they are just being "pulled" by the direction of the front wheels. The rear wheels don't provide any propulsion to the vehicle.

Also, the front wheels are always specified to be pumped to a slightly higher pressure (for my PREVE is 32psi (front) and 30.5psi (rear)) than the rear as the front is heavier due to the location of the engine. This also supports that a deeper threaded (or new) tires should be installed on the front. The above are my own opinions.

Cold and I use my own tire pressure gauge as well as my own manual floor pump. Those air pump gauges at the petrol kiosks are always inaccurate. I usually just check them once a month as my usage is low.

This post has been edited by winners8: Sep 3 2018, 07:43 PM

Hi PREVE CFE owners,

Can I check with you if there is a cover for the OBD socket (just below the steering column and above the brake pedal) on your PREVE CFE vehicle (See attached photo)?

The reason I'm asking is because on Thursday, I went to service my vehicle and at the same time I asked them to update the ECU. However, after checking, they told me that they still don't have the latest version for my PREVE CFE which I don't understand because my vehicle is already 3 years old and has never been updated before. Since I can't remember if there is a cover for the OBD socket, so I was wondering if they did not put back this cover after the checking. Thanks for a kind reply.

Thanks for your reply. Any other feedback regarding the OBD cover from first-hand PREVE owners will be much appreciated.

I'm in JB and I went to the PROTON EDAR Larkin SC, which cannot be considered as a small SC. I was very surprised that they can tell me they don't have the latest ECU version for my 3-year old PREVE. which is still using the original version. My reason to update the ECU version was because I do encounter occasional jerking (although not very frequent) when switching from "N" to "D". Hence, I was hoping that probably a new ECU version may resolve this small problem.

In addition, they had also done 2 electrical replacements as stated in their Service Invoice:

A. Code: 23850125 – PUP2385200 SB100473 Service Fix C
Preve Starter Adapter N Seri SB100423 SE-, 1

B. Code: 16210040 – PUP1621190 SB100423 Service Fix Preve 1A
PW913184W Adapter Starter B+ Terminal

I believe the above are part of the wiring harness although I didn't get to see the actual parts replaced. However, I did see their mechanic removing the alternator for this job.

Previously I would go to the small SC for my regular 6-monthly servicing. Last Thursday was my first time going to the PROTON EDAR Larkin SC because I had wanted to replace the 2 Oil Cooler Hoses (for the first time) as the vehicle is already 3 years old, although the mileage is only 17,381 km. Previously, when I brought this matter up to the small SC which I frequent, they will always claim that my mileage still doesn't qualify for the free replacement of the 2 Oil Cooler Hoses and so I was quite pissed off.

This post has been edited by winners8: Sep 15 2018, 04:12 PM