Technically, from rim guard, thread edge they're still 195mm. It's just that the additional SIDEWALL reinforcement make it looks like 205, also because of the extra thickness on the sidewall, it result in the look of the tire thickness/wideness increased.
Another thing is, by right the rear offset is even larger then the front, it should not sagat if the front didn't kena. However, sagat at the back is due to the edges as mentioned by you(which the front don't have). Originally I thought that was for the lazy Plotong to slot in the bananaleaf and quickly get the job done hence they didn't fold in the edges. After some "education by cruel swear words" from magician friend, came to understand many cars will make a ROLL UP SLEEVE folding at the fender arch edges to increase rigidity of the arch. And most of the lower costs vehicle are not allowed have excess metal sheet to make the roll up sleeve, the easiest way to maintain structural integrity is fold an L shape on the edge of an arch, this is the best way to ensure integrity with the least amount of extra structure(steel). Without that L edge / roll up sleeve on the wheel arches, it only take 1 corner from your new car roll out from the show room, and it will tear your wheel arch due to fatigue on the edges.
Yeah the edges, I roll them up by adding a stainless steel metal sheet along the wheel arch in between because I don't want them to fold too much. If they fold too much it will crack. Also when rolling heat is also important. I used an industrial blow torch on the wheel arch but before I torch the wheel arch I tape aluminium tape along the wheel arch torched area to protect the paint. Lucky nothing bad happened.
The problem I see most do a cold roll on the fenders. this stresses the internal bonding structure of the metal. The method I used is hot roll which you heat the metal up to give it some elasticity. How much to heat some might ask? I torch my wheel arch till so hot that if you sprinkle water on it. The water droplets will sizzle and vaporize.
This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 24 2015, 12:48 PM
bro your front adjustable use stoper or not? i did have sagat issue at the front my rim offset is 38 and 6.5jj tyre is parada, rear is fine and didnt even have to roll the fender..but there were a scratch on inner daun from the top both right and left.weird is there is no sagat mark on the outer tyre sidewall
i havent change my absorber link to neo one and its still give me knocking sound. haha this all happen after my car have been repaired from past accident lol. now
now i changed to rega master 32 offset 7jj with re003.
and i agree with you about the tyre sidewall some manufactures came out with different thickness sumore for high performance tyre where usually the sidewall maybe stiff. my front re003 really thick compare to rear ecopia 200 same size 195 50 15.
The Ftuned came with stopper already. My front have no problem. Go change the link it helps to solve some knock issues.
Hi guys, does anyone know where can buy saga fl rear boot garnish? The clips is broke and the thing fell off. Any methods to install my own if i buy a new one. Need any extra tools?
You can buy from any spare part shop but it only comes in black so you need to repaint it. The garnish has 2 M6 10mm nut that held it in place. You can only access the nut from inside the boot. Remove the insulation covering the boot and you will see the nut. Happy DIYing
Thanks for the advise. I think get it at spare part shop will be cheaper. Now only thing to worry is how to install after i buy it. There's an insulation that needs to be removed so that can only install the thing. Worry might tear off the insulation.
If you afraid that you might tear the insulation. What I did was use an art knife and cut 2 small square at the nut area. The square just big enough to put in 3-4 fingers to hold the nut in place when you remove or install back the nut. Then you won't risk damaging the entire insulation. The square might look ugly but no one will see that or bother too much about it.
After owning saga for 3 years. today only I know the CD player after CD eject from slot if no remove will automatically go back into the player. Hahahaha slow poke much....also 1st time use the CD player in 3 years...
This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 28 2015, 11:26 AM
i think this is standard for all cd player. But mine never been used before. i use usb all the time
QUOTE(wankel @ Oct 28 2015, 11:38 AM)
I've never used mine either yet, sometime I must find a CD just to test it but I'm in no hurry to do it, the MP3 input satisfies all my pre-recorded needs.
gib me ur FC report first like fuelly or something. other than saving the environment, i don't see any real benefits to our crap Kampro.
btw, using RON97 maybe benefits for you, but not everybody. not everybody will afford to pay extra rm0.40 per litre to pump ron97 anyways. unless price drop until same or not more like last time.
i knew one forumer did pump RON97 all this time, that is TitanRev and he is fucuking don't care about the feeling. go ask him directly lor.
I'm using RON97 and RON95. I also campur campur like rojak one...suka suka I masuk 95 suka suka 97 so I also tak tau what is in my tank, rojak kao kao sudah 95/97 inside. But janji, car can start and jalan sudah ok. But don't anggan anggan like me go test put diesel into petrol engine. I masuk diesel to avanza, start 5 min jer...car died...keep cranking cannot start also then injector, fuel rail all leaking, fuel pump rosak, fuel filter sumbat...piston top all diesel fuel....
So if you hate someone really badly...kasi tuang diesel in his fuel tank...janji that fellow will cry very long time....
Using 95/97 I don't feel any difference. I go track sometimes pakai 95 sometimes 97 but nothing usual. My car didn't go slower or faster.
This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 29 2015, 11:14 AM
Yup....just for fun since engine also sudah mau overhaul... Doing things which sane people won't do....our malaysian would like to call it sohai things...Hahahahaha
the damage you described was quite dramatic lol, pretty much the entire fuel system dead lol
Actually more damage than I expected...coz I initially guess is, Fuel pump will die, injector nozzle will burst and CC flooded. That's all. Didn't know leaking and fuel filter also RIP together...then I think about it. Yeah because diesel is much thicker than petrol so when you apply pressure to it it won't compress so the pressure all burst from weak points.
Oh, the spark plugs was all wet like soak in lub oil....
I've came across 1 case like this when I was in Toyota. Somehow the owner wrongly put in diesel but he siphoned out as much as possible then refill back with full tank of petrol. He manage to drive very slowly to our service center with a jerky engine. The damage he had was less. Fuel filter had to go, injector nozzle 1,3 had issues...that's all...we just clean out the entire fuel system and emptied out all the tank. Send the 2,4 injector for inspection and clean out...and that's it.
So it's down to how many diesel you put into the tank that would do how much damage....