Actually inverter was from variable input watt, can be minimum to maximum, just depend how low the temperature are you set from, even use high fan speed may tell the compressor works in high speed as well.

The outdoor thermostat can be tell the outdoor unit works as efficeint also, again at night time will be reduce to minimum speed of runs.

Used part load is just depend the weather and your setting as well.

Room A set to 20c with Mid fan the saving amount would be same as non-inverter also.

Room B set to 25c with low fan mode, the energy saving can be run as part load, if once the temperature are reached, also depend your room and space or outside heat.

For your choice : 1. Wanna use less often then get non-inverter just your choice.
2. Get inverter really long term invest, unless you really works for TNB as well.

Energy saving is depend the personal usage.
Have no comments

But non-inverter just depend how well the markets responding and user feedback, each manufacturing markets for make more profits only.

Once the inverter to be plenty of volumes, from each manufactures will be reduce the non inverter as a minimum supply or shortage.

Once a shortage what will be increase?
Refrigerant gas R22 will be increase price.

Actually R22 is a main supply for AC, no gas = no AC.

Please find out your self, I heard you are experted

Oops forget my store room had a unit inverter MHI

I'm just curious which part of the Service Manual you posted mentioned the OA Thermistor is for protection against failure?

First of all the full load EER or COP for inverter A/C with the same hp rating is more superior than non-inverter. (So your assumption for same full load power is wrong)
Secondly high power consumption of non-inverter A/C is mainly due to the starting amp required during every startup.

I means inside the service manual you posted. Which page mentioned the CU OA Thermistor is meant for protection?

I actually have few hardcopy of these service manual and read them few years ago. From my understanding these manual is for technician to troubleshoot error. Never explain the design. That's why I ask you to clarify which page you refer for what you claimed. Just in case I missed out something while reading.

From your link EER for non-inverter is 11.1 and inverter is 12.6. Means inverter is more efficient. Did you really read the link you posted or you just buta buta taruk only. Stop wasting people time.

By the way I don't think capacitor have anything to do with DOL start up. Or you are going to clarify this with another link?

i have a panasonic aircon. i use it once a week. after using for 11 months (from date of purchase), the fuse on the main (indoor) unit circuit board blown (as told by panasonic technician). after pcb replacement, everything was ok until today (4 months later), the aircon is not working. i think it is the same problem.

before the panasonic, i had a toshiba. it went dead too, hence i changed it to panasonic.

any idea what could be the culprit?
is this a common panasonic aircon defect?

what do you mean properly fused? as usual, there is a main circuit breaker.
i did some measurement, notice something weird:

when cb is closed:
wall switch open (off) = 0vac
wall switch close (on) = 240vac
^ this seems normal

when cb is opened:
wall switch open (off) = 0vac
wall switch close (on) = 30vac
^ this is weird. why am i getting 30vac ?

this 30vac appears on the aircon power point and the other 2 points that share the same cb.

I see how is our mighty supersound end an loosing argument, by posting a hundreds pages service manual and ask people to read it and keep claiming that the manual can proof you right. In fact I read them all but still can't find what you claim, prevent frozen and protection.

By doing so also conveniently missed out that your misleading calculation on the power consumption between inverter and non-inverter.

You want to know how I know that, please finished reading full set of Encyclopedia to find the answer.

Feel that you still cheating us, to be waste our time.

Nowadays no longer to be reply your post anymore

Sorry my here was the Singapore power = SP Power, why I need replied you?

Hmm, seems like you kinda nailed the issue. I'd follow supersound's advice or if not confident enlist a qualified electrician to test it out. Most likely a new line dedicated to this AC alone needs to be pulled on a separate 16A fuse if extra slots are available.

Unless you can trace every electrical or drilling work done to just before the Toshiba started to konk it could have been something that might have caused such a leakage. If this wire somehow is for an upstairs AC, some times the wires runs along the roof space to the usage point and who knows some curious smallish mammal could have a field day fraying or gnawing it or the cable was stretched to its limit and had worn (frayed) out over the years of usage. I don't know if that's a possibility.

Most AC have voltage sag tolerance up to 185-200V. Some newer generation like the Samsung triangle claimed even 160V but to what effect that has on the copper wire I don't know.

Good advice. 240V should be less scarier with proper protection. Hey, another possibility..What about if electric gate punya point also come from this circuit?

Upon further inspection, I think it is refrigerant leak issue. I bought this unit from Lazada and I had my own installer.

So I wonder do I get any warranty from Midea itself. Anyway, anyone here have experience how much it cost to fix refrigerant leak issue?

Air cond requirement: non-inverter, 2.0hp, r410gas, silent, quality

Which brand I should choose?
1. Sharp
2. Elextrolux
3. Panasonic

*Currently not considering daikin because expensive + noisy.

hi guys, need some advice, would like to get non inverter with r410 gas with 5 star energy efficient , would this be a cheaper alternative than getting inverter unit? any disadvantages?

btw, for non inverter with r410a , the piping need to use inverter piping or not necessary?

Hi All,

Require some guide and advise. Looking to get a new aircon 1.5 HP. Can anyone share their views and experince using either one of the models / brands listed

Daikin - http://www.lazada.com.my/daikin-15hp-inver...al-1115189.html

LG - http://www.lazada.com.my/lg-deluxe-inverte...d4-1533571.html

Samsung - http://www.lazada.com.my/samsung-premium-1...0a-1143374.html

Sharp - http://www.lazada.com.my/sharp-ahx12sev1-a...er-3811730.html

Wanted to know which one will be best value for money and maintenance. Do let me know if there are other brands i should consider. The ones i found are from lazada as the prices seem good, but i am always open to hear if there are other places i should check out?

How is AEON?