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 Aircon Discussion V3, Home Appliance

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SUSsupersound
post Sep 22 2015, 07:52 PM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Sep 22 2015, 06:35 PM)
Actually inverter was from variable input watt, can be minimum to maximum, just depend how low the temperature are you set from, even use high fan speed may tell the compressor works in high speed as well.

The outdoor thermostat can be tell the outdoor unit works as efficeint also, again at night time will be reduce to minimum speed of runs.

Used part load is just depend the weather and your setting as well.

Room A set to 20c with Mid fan the saving amount would be same as non-inverter also.

Room B set to 25c with low fan mode, the energy saving can be run as part load, if once the temperature are reached, also depend your room and space or outside heat.

For your choice : 1. Wanna use less often then get non-inverter just your choice.
2. Get inverter really long term invest, unless you really works for TNB as well.

Energy saving is depend the personal usage.
Have no comments
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Why not take a photo of "outdoor thermostat" to support your flaw hmm.gif
SUSsupersound
post Sep 22 2015, 07:53 PM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Sep 22 2015, 06:45 PM)
But non-inverter just depend how well the markets responding and user feedback, each manufacturing markets for make more profits only.

Once the inverter to be plenty of volumes, from each manufactures will be reduce the non inverter as a minimum supply or shortage.

Once a shortage what will be increase?
Refrigerant gas R22 will be increase price.

Actually R22 is a main supply for AC, no gas = no AC.
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First time I know solids can be measured by volume notworthy.gif
SUSsupersound
post Sep 22 2015, 08:23 PM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Sep 22 2015, 08:14 PM)
Please find out your self, I heard you are experted
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All the air cond that I've seen before does not has an outdoor unit thermostat, that's why I need to ask you shakehead.gif
SUSsupersound
post Sep 22 2015, 09:56 PM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Sep 22 2015, 09:32 PM)
Oops forget my store room had a unit inverter MHI
user posted image
user posted image
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Good, but those thermostat are not for the air cond to work efficient or not, it is for protection against failures, more on safeguarding.
http://www.daikinac.com/content/assets/DOC..._SiUS25-501.pdf
Again, some low level English document to prove you are dead wrong whistling.gif
SUSsupersound
post Sep 23 2015, 07:56 AM

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QUOTE(keyser soze @ Sep 23 2015, 04:38 AM)
I'm just curious which part of the Service Manual you posted mentioned the OA Thermistor is for protection against failure?
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Protection against frozen and abnormal situation.
SUSsupersound
post Sep 23 2015, 08:56 AM

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QUOTE(keyser soze @ Sep 23 2015, 05:10 AM)
First of all the full load EER or COP for inverter A/C with the same hp rating is more superior than non-inverter. (So your assumption for same full load power is wrong)
Secondly high power consumption of non-inverter A/C is mainly due to the starting amp required during every startup.
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Yup, I know that, initial crank always pull the most current but this is for 2-3 seconds. That's why a capacitor is there to cater this.
The numbers are not that accurate, but just to serve a general reference
http://www.panasonic.com/my/consumer/home-...cs-v9rkh-1.html
http://www.panasonic.com/my/consumer/home-...s-s10rkh-1.html
Both are 1HP but inverter actually using more power on full load.
SUSsupersound
post Sep 23 2015, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(keyser soze @ Sep 23 2015, 08:15 AM)
I means inside the service manual you posted. Which page mentioned the CU OA Thermistor is meant for protection?
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Spend time to read and understand, it is quite detail.
SUSsupersound
post Sep 23 2015, 11:44 AM

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QUOTE(keyser soze @ Sep 23 2015, 09:39 AM)
I actually have few hardcopy of these service manual and read them few years ago. From my understanding these manual is for technician to troubleshoot error. Never explain the design. That's why I ask you to clarify which page you refer for what you claimed. Just in case I missed out something while reading.
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Type "R1T" in the reader, it will show what are the thermosistor for.

QUOTE(keyser soze @ Sep 23 2015, 09:44 AM)
From your link EER for non-inverter is 11.1 and inverter is 12.6. Means inverter is more efficient. Did you really read the link you posted or you just buta buta taruk only. Stop wasting people time.

By the way I don't think capacitor have anything to do with DOL start up. Or you are going to clarify this with another link?
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Efficiency will come in to the picture when it starts to stabilize, as long as this state is not reached, it will still pull the max, as per the specs.
From the calculation I did, by changing the numbers, indeed inverter will "save" more of up to 65% as per panasonic marketing.
SUSsupersound
post Sep 26 2015, 04:57 PM

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QUOTE(Skylinestar @ Sep 24 2015, 01:30 PM)
i have a panasonic aircon. i use it once a week. after using for 11 months (from date of purchase), the fuse on the main (indoor) unit circuit board blown (as told by panasonic technician). after pcb replacement, everything was ok until today (4 months later), the aircon is not working. i think it is the same problem.

before the panasonic, i had a toshiba. it went dead too, hence i changed it to panasonic.

any idea what could be the culprit?
is this a common panasonic aircon defect?
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In order for cicuit board to fail, you need over voltage, that's the normal thing.
Is it properly fused? Did you ask someone to measure voltage on the plugs? Typical is 240-250V.
SUSsupersound
post Sep 26 2015, 09:16 PM

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QUOTE(Skylinestar @ Sep 26 2015, 07:11 PM)
what do you mean properly fused? as usual, there is a main circuit breaker.
i did some measurement, notice something weird:

when cb is closed:
wall switch open (off) = 0vac
wall switch close (on) = 240vac
^ this seems normal

when cb is opened:
wall switch open (off) = 0vac
wall switch close (on) = 30vac
^ this is weird. why am i getting 30vac ?

this 30vac appears on the aircon power point and the other 2 points that share the same cb.
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Looks like you have leakage somewhere.
Since you know some troubleshooting skills, here's another thing you shall do which is check where's the leak.
You need to check all the plug points, the test all simple only, you need to connect 1 wire to live/neutral and then short it to the earth, if it trips the ELCB ,that point are normal, if it does not trips, then that's the plug point that having problem.

BTW, you shall not 1 split to >1 consumer for air cond plug point.
SUSsupersound
post Sep 26 2015, 10:17 PM

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QUOTE(keyser soze @ Sep 26 2015, 09:58 PM)
I see how is our mighty supersound end an loosing argument, by posting a hundreds pages service manual and ask people to read it and keep claiming that the manual can proof you right. In fact I read them all but still can't find what you claim, prevent frozen and protection.

By doing so also conveniently missed out that your misleading calculation on the power consumption between inverter and non-inverter.

You want to know how I know that, please finished reading full set of Encyclopedia to find the answer.
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Basically you no need to read all, just the front pages with words are more than enough to know how they work.
But again, most won't read and just like to be a follower to market trend shocking.gif
SUSsupersound
post Sep 26 2015, 10:24 PM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Sep 26 2015, 10:20 PM)
Feel that you still cheating us, to be waste our time.

Nowadays no longer to be reply your post anymore smile.gif
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Well, at least I dare to show my TNB bill to "cheat" while you can keep on cheating how good an inverter are but can't show any proof.
That's the main difference between you and me, I "cheat" with proof but you cheat without proof.

SUSsupersound
post Sep 26 2015, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Sep 26 2015, 10:27 PM)
Sorry my here was the Singapore power = SP Power, why I need replied you?
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Regardless of which country you are, 1kW/h is still 1kW/h.
Again, you don't have the guts to show your proof.
SUSsupersound
post Sep 27 2015, 11:05 PM

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QUOTE(halcyon27 @ Sep 26 2015, 11:29 PM)
Hmm, seems like you kinda nailed the issue. I'd follow supersound's advice or if not confident enlist a qualified electrician to test it out. Most likely a new line dedicated to this AC alone needs to be pulled on a separate 16A fuse if extra slots are available.

Unless you can trace every electrical or drilling work done to just before the Toshiba started to konk it could have been something that might have caused such a leakage. If this wire somehow is for an upstairs AC, some times the wires runs along the roof space to the usage point and who knows some curious smallish mammal could have a field day fraying or gnawing it or the cable was stretched to its limit and had worn (frayed) out over the years of usage. I don't know if that's a possibility.

Most AC have voltage sag tolerance up to 185-200V. Some newer generation like the Samsung triangle claimed even 160V but to what effect that has on the copper wire I don't know.
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Well, if the plug point are not that good, you may get arching which cause you to feel scare to do it laugh.gif
But you can always wear a rubber glove and rubber shoe or DIY a test plug.
Safest is still get an electrician to have a check. For me that been dealing with 6.6KV before, 250V are nothing to feel worry about icon_rolleyes.gif
SUSsupersound
post Sep 28 2015, 08:39 AM

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QUOTE(halcyon27 @ Sep 28 2015, 07:27 AM)
Good advice. 240V should be less scarier with proper protection. Hey, another possibility..What about if electric gate punya point also come from this circuit?
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Well, for those conceal connections like the gate, heater point and air cond point, it is harder as you need to open the cove and test the wiring, it is more tedious. Can be done, just need more effort. For this, I suggest get an electrician and do it once every 5-6 years for whole house and at the same time test the copper rod outside your house(if landed).
Like light and fan points being looped you can only knows by shut the fuse switch 1 by 1 to know is it being looped or not sweat.gif
SUSsupersound
post Sep 28 2015, 02:42 PM

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QUOTE(alchmiya @ Sep 28 2015, 10:04 AM)
Upon further inspection, I think it is refrigerant leak issue. I bought this unit from Lazada and I had my own installer.

So I wonder do I get any warranty from Midea itself. Anyway, anyone here have experience how much it cost to fix refrigerant leak issue?
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Leak from where? If leak from pipe, you need to call your installer and screw them nicely.
You can only claim warranty if it leaks from the outdoor/indoor unit.
SUSsupersound
post Sep 28 2015, 09:56 PM

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QUOTE(angelcdb @ Sep 28 2015, 03:48 PM)
Air cond requirement: non-inverter, 2.0hp, r410gas, silent, quality

Which brand I should choose?
1. Sharp
2. Elextrolux
3. Panasonic

*Currently not considering daikin because expensive + noisy.
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Define noisy whistling.gif
My 2HP non inverter panasonic also quite "loud" when blower on maximum and I turn off the AVR and TV.
For 2HP, it is quite hard to have noise level as low as 1HP type. So best way to have "quiet" air cond is don't turn on the blower to maximum thumbup.gif
SUSsupersound
post Sep 29 2015, 08:27 AM

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QUOTE(rayfoo @ Sep 29 2015, 07:52 AM)
hi guys, need some advice, would like to get non inverter with r410 gas with 5 star energy efficient , would this be a cheaper alternative than getting inverter unit? any disadvantages?
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where and duration of use will determine what to get.
<4 hours or living hall non inverter will do thumbup.gif
SUSsupersound
post Sep 29 2015, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(rayfoo @ Sep 29 2015, 08:42 AM)
btw, for non inverter with r410a , the piping need to use inverter piping or not necessary?
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The installer will tell you to do and not to do.
SUSsupersound
post Sep 29 2015, 04:49 PM

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QUOTE(ksgill80 @ Sep 29 2015, 02:30 PM)
Hi All,

Require some guide and advise. Looking to get a new aircon 1.5 HP. Can anyone share their views and experince using either one of the models / brands listed

Daikin - http://www.lazada.com.my/daikin-15hp-inver...al-1115189.html

LG - http://www.lazada.com.my/lg-deluxe-inverte...d4-1533571.html

Samsung - http://www.lazada.com.my/samsung-premium-1...0a-1143374.html

Sharp - http://www.lazada.com.my/sharp-ahx12sev1-a...er-3811730.html

Wanted to know which one will be best value for money and maintenance. Do let me know if there are other brands i should consider. The ones i found are from lazada as the prices seem good, but i am always open to hear if there are other places i should check out?

How is AEON?
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Duration of usage matters, if short period of time, it won't do any good, except you spend more for initial cost and higher maintenance cost.
Inverter only do wonders when it starts to ramp down the outdoor unit's output, as long as it is still on full load state, the consumption will be same as non inverter.

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