You are of course entitled to your own opinion, but if you can comment on the shelf life of a product, I would have to think that you are in the industry, and are now trying to bad mouth your competitors. After all, an end user has no idea of the shelf life as it all happens behind the scene within the industry. Maybe you work in a shop, and it makes more profit to push certain specific brands?

And who made you the authority on how other people spend their money? And what is the "reputable brand" that you allude to? Something you recommend?

Should anyone follow your "recommendation"? There is no way you have enough experience with all the brands and their models to have a valid recommendation on air conds overall, so what is the point of your forceful, exclamation filled post? Maybe you have experience with your specific install, but nothing more. Unless you are in the industry, of course.

I dare* say that 9 out of 10 problems with air conds starts with a bad installation, or owner error. Owners proudly claiming they saved money by not servicing their air conds at least once a year? Haha, that's where the problem lies! Faults definitely do not lie with the factory production. Can you imagine the factory designing a bad air cond, making a production run of 1000 units, and then having 80% of them returned for faults? That air cond company will soon go out of business. A 10% production failure rate is already incredibly high for a consumer product like an air cond unit.



*I am a Certified Air Condition technician, qualified in Residential and Light Commercial units, but I pulled the 9/10 figure out of thin air as I have not made a quantitative study of the rate. Since I do not take retail, home owner jobs, you are welcome to believe, or not, my post.

Please have a look at the specific air cond manual you are installing. The manual will state the minimum and maximum distance you can install the ODU using the factory charge of refrigerant. The manual will also state the necessary charge you have to add if your ODU installation is further than the maximum stated. You must follow all the other requirements stated in the manual of course.

In short, far distance possible, you have to add refrigerant according to specifications.

Search your favourite online marketplace for "smart ir controller" or "Broadlink"

All installations MUST be vacuumed before the gas is released, no matter the gas type, or the compressor control. (either inverter or ON/OFF cycling) It serves to:
1. purge the tubes of any other gases (vacuuming the gases out)
2. purge the tubes of any water (water will boil off once the pressure drops)
3. check for leaks within the installation (the system must hold vacuum)

Part of the problem is the installer themselves, as there are many, many sub-standard, unqualified ones out there who don't know any better. Cold air means okay already, who cares if problem in 1 year?
But also a bit with the homeowner. Owner always want cheap and fast, how to wait 1 hour for leak test after vacuum? Then will complain why so slow and argue over the cost. It cost time and money to do a proper installation. So end up cutting corners.

From the power draw viewpoint, all 1.0 HP can run from a 13A point as 1 HP = 746 W. This is an Ampere draw slightly above 3 A. Look at the specifications of the air cond you want; it should state the "Running Current" which is the important metric

Startup current is higher as you point out. But this is taken care of by the MCB - "B" curve, or "C" curve in response to this spike. Basically, the MCB allows a spike that is higher than its rated current to go thru. This is okay, as the duration is very short, and the wiring can withstand this spike. As a reference, multimeters that are designed to measure this startup/inrush current measure for the first 100 ms only. I have one of these multimeters, and generally by the end of the 100 ms (0.1 s) the current has already dropped to steady state.

Fuses that feed circuits with this startup current are usually denoted with a "T" in front, eg "T5.0A". This is to signify that the fuse is Time delayed, and can absorb this startup current without damage. If it is a glass fuse you can see the fuse wire looks like a spring.

What are you trying to insinuate with your attached image?

I think you are mistaking your anecdotal assumption with the engineering design. Midea All Easy Pro is the hidden gem that no one realises, all going on about Pana, and Daikin, and Mitsu etc.

You know, or you assume it will rattle?

Not trying to argue here, but I would rather not trust reviews based on someone who has never used the product at all, and is just giving their anecdotal assumption

Okay, got it. Thanks for the clarification

I cannot find the exact installation manual for your model. But most of Panasonic air conds have minimum tubing length of 3 m (9.8 ft) Please have a look at the installation instructions that will come in the package.

Sorry, double post

This post has been edited by stormer.lyn: Feb 26 2024, 06:23 PM

This is what the Installation instructions will look like (sorry, you won't be able to read what I attached - too small):
Normally a couple of pages only with the information on mounting, pipe sizes, tightening torque, wiring, best practices, etc.



Detailed information from the document

Hope this helps.

This post has been edited by stormer.lyn: Feb 26 2024, 06:25 PM

"Much better"? That seems like an extreme claim to make. What criteria do you use to justify "much better"?

I also think so. Or at least is someone in the industry with vested interest in the brand

Check any Daikin documentation, even the brochure for your model, and the pipe size will be stated

Take whatever this member says with a pinch of salt. There seems to be a disconnect between the actual knowledge and how this affects air conditioning.

If the area is very large you are better off using 2 smaller units as the spread from 2 units is better than one large unit. Just something to consider

Good that you did this. Some people will put a big a/cond unit because the space is big, but the cool air won't spread out properly.

It could be possible the a/cond is still leaking. A leak could be very, very slow but you won't be able to notice for these 3 months yet, as the refrigerant has not dropped below critical level. Just keep monitoring