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 Smart Home, Let's discuss

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Max
post Aug 20 2022, 12:25 AM

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QUOTE(Keatsan @ Aug 19 2022, 07:44 PM)
If your house has local network hooked with VPN, maybe can continue using the Daikin over internet with VPN.  hmm.gif
*
maybe one of workaround.. but me only use at home..
actually no point to control over internet.. windows open abit for circulation when not home.. and only going to bed use ac.

im still configuring my HA and mocking up dashboard for wall panel (reuse note10.1 tablet)

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Max
post Aug 20 2022, 11:46 PM

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QUOTE(alucard89 @ Aug 20 2022, 12:39 AM)
What year that model and do you remove the battery from the note10 or just use smartplug for start/stop charging when hit low/full battery?
How's the smoothness of the dashboard running on that?
Wonder if I can reuse my old iconia a500 tablet from 10 years ago, if I can still find the propietary charging dock  sweat.gif
*
10 years back too.. 2012. 1st model note 10.1 tablet.
Currently still testing. Just normally charge and cabut cable.

For dashboard seems ok for basic graph, switch.
Switch also respond instanly. Only sometime feels abit lag. But light turn on instantly.. only ondash animation lag.

Btw, i flashed with custom rom. Lineage OS.

Max
post Aug 22 2022, 09:53 AM

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QUOTE(alucard89 @ Aug 21 2022, 09:57 PM)
Do you put any cctv stream on the dashboard also? How’s the smoothness
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Nope. No cctv stream. Surely will lag like hell.. 🤣
Button animation also abit lag... but triggering process is instant (light on or off)
Max
post Aug 24 2022, 11:26 AM

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QUOTE(vl319 @ Aug 24 2022, 10:12 AM)
Hi. I would like to ask about neutral wiring for 3-phase.

My house is 3-phase incoming and the lighting & aircond busbar is served by 1 no 63A 3-phase 100mA RCCB. Power point busbar has its own 63A 3-phase 30mA RCCB.  So total has 2 RCCB in my DB.

Does it mean that i can loop any netural wire from any nearby lighting point or aircond point to the lighting switch, since they are from same 100mA RCCB?
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If ur AC switch also same 100ma rccb neutral busbar, should be ok.


QUOTE(lucaswjk @ Aug 24 2022, 11:01 AM)
im interested in ur db, can share the photo and the rccb brand/spec
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Interested too... 🤔😀
Max
post Sep 2 2022, 10:57 AM

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Tuya/Smartlife more product bcoz they are open concept.. unlike Ewelink/Sonoff this one closed design. 'only' operate with Ewelink App..

Sonoff also not very much product.. seems abit lagging behind Tuya.. but their stuff currently reliable..

i've dive into sonoff because in the beginning already bought/used some of their stuff.. sweat.gif

Max
post Sep 2 2022, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 2 2022, 11:33 AM)
oh, i just realise the horror that neutral wire is needed OR having to install capacitor right at the appliances itself.

it's not just Chinese. If you give me apps that blatantly proud  Spanish or Tamil or Arabic or those French ticks and dots, I also flip table.
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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 2 2022, 11:36 AM)
Do I need to install just 1 capacitor per switch gang, or need to install for each appliance?

(If only 1 is neccessary, will there be ill-effect if I install for each appliance instead?)
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yes need neutral or capacitor.
the switch itself need standby power.
so if doing renovation with wiring, better pull neutral also to switches box.

only L1 need capacitor. the capacitor just link at N and L at Load side.
best to look into the smart switch manual.



Max
post Sep 2 2022, 03:47 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 2 2022, 03:32 PM)
ordered wireless multi-mode gateway first
+ 7 zigbee door sensor
+ 1 zigbee alarm speaker

urgency to get security fencing up first; just the other day, a neighbour immediately in front had his house under renovation broken into; real contractor found doors were pried, possibly by impersonators. so i want to prevent.

now thinking of whether to use pass-thru powerbank or UPS to keep the hub powered during blackout, in case TNB fuse right outside gets tampered first. i'm under impression that unlike wifi which needs router to also be up, zigbee network can survive during a blackout provided the hub remains powered.

but, the logic behind triggering alarm when door sensor tripped; is it stored locally inside the hub? or is it in the cloud (which renders the whole set up pointless if internet is out.)
*
u still need UPS for internet stuff (modem/wifi).. else how the control or notification to be send to cloud, then to ur mobile app. tongue.gif
btw all powered smart switch/devices will power off too.. unless battery powered..

my house always trip if there's lighting.. i have to use UPS backup for my internet stuff and HA server.. so i could turn back ON automatically or remotely.. wink.gif


Max
post Sep 2 2022, 04:01 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 2 2022, 03:51 PM)
i suspect as much of the UPS. Then the hub and the router etc need to sit together so I can maximise a single UPS.

got tuya device that can reset the lightning strike fuse from remote?
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im using single most budget (less than 150) UPS.
u need to extend power cable if ur UPS'ed devices sit far from each other.

im using Sonoff/ewelink main power breaker (got rccb function, energy/power meter also, replacing the normal rccb). i think TUYA also got..
Max
post Sep 2 2022, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 2 2022, 04:04 PM)
That reads like a non-smart device.
itself will reset in 15minutes, right?

Suruhanjaya Tenaga need to approve the device?
Or, if I ask local electrician, will he understand WTF am I asking for?

I guess this will need electrician to execute.
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yes. thats non smart type. auto-reclosure.
but certain model (like the one with that green connector) can wire in triggering device to reset the RCCB.

usually, inside home or after meter no need ST.
old skool electrician might not understand if wanna put all this modern IoT devices.. laugh.gif better get the one that familiar with smart/IoT devices..
Max
post Sep 2 2022, 04:22 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 2 2022, 04:08 PM)
how many VA?
what load do you put on it?
how long does it last before empty?

thinking of loading BTU, main router, and the HA gateway.
just basic to retain internet and working VoIP line.
so need a baseline estimate of how long yours last with your VA.
*
CyberPower UPS- UT800EG.
just modem, router and microITX J1800 CPU running Debian.

not sure how long can last.. but, if my house trip, need less than 10mins to reset again (on auto reset i set 5mins gap)

from UPS specs: Runtime at 90W : 16mins.
2x 12v power adapter only @ around 10W (?)
1x 14v PSU adapter server @ 15W maybe.

anyway, i haven't tried how long the UPS last on single use..
Max
post Sep 2 2022, 04:27 PM

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QUOTE(Zot @ Sep 2 2022, 04:16 PM)
Got branded one
https://shopee.com.my/BIG-PROMO-9.9-HAGER-M...49-288531c44d82

https://shopee.com.my/ABB-63A-4P-300mA-RCCB...29-b2a4dc6ccb9f

I've never seen one that can be controlled using WiFi. I think having RF module close to power line is too noisy. More complicated. because need EiFi module and electro-mechanical too.
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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 2 2022, 04:23 PM)
yeah. never know there are ones that can recover by itself, that's why i thought it requires another tuya intervention.
agree that this does not need electronic intervention. a manual one is sufficient. the endgame after all is just to recover from interruption without me having to drive 40km away.
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i use this one.
https://shopee.com.my/eWeLink-2P-Wifi-63A-C...d0-e3425342a7be

actually bought that for power consumption metering.. but the frequent trip when lighting (my housing area lighting prone.. sweat.gif ) .. i run test just with the ewelink breaker.. leakage test, lighting, all seems running fine (the sensitive also higher @30mA than previous normal RCCB @100mA).
so i just use the ewelink one..
Max
post Sep 2 2022, 04:30 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 2 2022, 04:26 PM)
that interval makes sense when you have auto-reset fuse and UPS combined.

i'll borrow the idea  😅
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yes. the idea was to supply power when trip occurs and u have the ability and time to reset back the breaker. nod.gif
Max
post Sep 3 2022, 07:32 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 3 2022, 09:29 AM)
bought same model due to pricing and the 3-pin layout at the back is just sensible , unlike haphazard layour and bumps of competitors.

(can they even fit huge adapters... no, don't answer this.)

but i also buy same-brand AVR 1000VA w/ 4 UK plug to front it, just to be safe for both UPS behind it and for other appliances (tv, ...) not hooked through UPS.

(yeah, i know UPS have built-in AVR, but i need lightning protection as well. rather than buy lightning strips; 4xx joules of this same brand is more than other competitors' AVRs.)
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AVR at front also good.
Mine electric supply sometimes as high as 263V.
Last few days, that UPS got overload protection several times at night.. it will long single beep.. and power off..
I have to disable the UPS and direct plug in.

QUOTE(lucaswjk @ Sep 3 2022, 12:41 PM)
i also not sure why it doesnt work on fluorescent light.
here just my theory, mayb when the starter ignite the argon/xenon gas. it will pull ALL power from the L1 and might cause the wifi/radio module to be cut off.

im not sure how u guyz did it...
because of this issue, even im using neutral i do not dare to put all high powered devices on L1... including ceiling fan/motorized/spotlight, etc etc
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Fluorescent light using ballast, that will produce high power when starting up.. using capasitor it will kacau the circuit..
Smart switch also cant withstand that..
Even smart switch supplier already mentioned cant use with fluorescent light tube.
And also smart switch have limited max power handling (depends model, some use relay, some triacs.)

QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 3 2022, 01:44 PM)
cannot put ceiling fan and exhaust fan on L1?
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Fan motor cannot be use on L1 with capacitor installed.
Capacitor across load will kacau the motor running phase
Max
post Sep 15 2022, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 14 2022, 01:41 PM)
Guys, this sort of multi-gang wall switches (max 10A).
I'm looking at 1 gang, 2 gang, 3 gang, 4 gang, probably 6 gang as well.

Assuming I will be able to pull neutral to the switch.
Are they able to handle 1 ceiling fan as well? say, on L1 or L2?

user posted image
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smart switches currently i see max 4 gangs only.. laugh.gif

anyway,last week sonoff switchman M5 (3 gangs) and NSPanel arrived.
managed to install for hall/garage switch.

very fortunate coz got earth cable at switch (last time got fan regulator there), convert it to Neutral cable (some tricks learn from friend, swap it at DB box)..and the switch box depth also plenty. fitted the M5 and NSPanel nicely.. thumbup.gif
* upload pics later.

btw, i got my Cyberpower UPS UT800EG for sale. changing my UPS to bigger one for backing other things as well.. wink.gif
shoot me PM if anyone interested.

and another one, zigbee UK smart plug (ewelink compatible).. this bought wrongly.. didnt notice the its Zigbee version.. sweat.gif

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This post has been edited by Max: Sep 15 2022, 02:46 PM
Max
post Sep 16 2022, 10:29 AM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 15 2022, 06:50 PM)
apart from zigbee/wifi and ewelink/tuya; did you pay attention to the amperage of such socket when you buy?

i'm looking at my first wall socket in anticipation of installing fridge. the current plain socket is to be in rear and will no longer be accessible afterward, so i want to get it settled even before the rest.

what a pain to find that everyone were selling UK 3-pin for only 10A. not fond of the round one like yours as then i will waste too much space between fridge and wall with another layer of belkin surge protector.
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Yes. I know its 10A. As supposed to use with low power devices.
Btw 10A actually is a plenty.. 2200W capable.
But miss the zigbee version.. too many things in 'cart' i guess . Haha . 😆

Btw, y u need smart switch at fridge? That appliance is one of the switch ON and never OFF (unless maintenance or such) 🤔
Max
post Sep 26 2022, 10:25 AM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 24 2022, 07:33 PM)
Note-to-self:

Malaysian base plates are not deep enought to hole smart sockets.

Tested 5mm gap on an empty baseplate, without wiring behind.

user posted image

user posted image
*
yep. but those white base is for surface mount.
inside wall usually the black one (abit softer plastic, can use normal long sharp screw).
mine luckily the box is deep enough to fit in NS & M5 biggrin.gif

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Max
post Sep 26 2022, 11:39 AM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 26 2022, 10:31 AM)
developer used common baseplate embedded into the wall leh.

as @alucard89 wrote: need to order those spacer.
so far only found 15mm ones, not yet found 20mm or deeper.

would prefer deeper than 15mm for practicality; some of the wall even have gangs of 3 and 4, so I can already imagine the thick mess behind them even before opening.
*
sorry, dont understand. unsure.gif
usually i see inside wall box the black type (or maybe other colour) , but not those hard box surface type inside wall..

QUOTE(cablesguy @ Sep 26 2022, 10:33 AM)
Wow the screen switch looks nice, thermostat?
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that is Sonoff NSPanel. inside menu also got thermostat control, but here lack of use.. unless got HVAC control that can integrated with sonoff.
inside menu also got 'widget' that can control other sonoff devices..

QUOTE(alucard89 @ Sep 26 2022, 10:38 AM)
Worth getting nspanel? Or just re-use old android tablet
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depends. unsure.gif
i actually already got wall panel(recycle old samsung GT-N8000). most used switches are there.
the NSPanel saja gatal buy.. from china less than RM200.
inside can put widget to control other sonoff devices. i use to control 2x sonoff 4CHR2 (controlling hall white and warm yellow lighting), kitchen/toilet light.

my "smart home" not fully local control/HA yet.
but all smart devices already integrated in HA.. just not fully control by HA.. sometimes still use the ewelink/sonoff app..

still learning.. sweat.gif

Max
post Sep 26 2022, 03:18 PM

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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Sep 26 2022, 12:06 PM)
developer uses the same white-colour plastic baseplate as the one you say is used on surface. the difference is only, it is now inside the wall itself.
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oh ic..
well doesn't that more expensive than the designated box for inside walls.. and also that base doesn't have the 'wings' to grasp inside wall cement..
anyway.. that's another story not related here.. haha laugh.gif

bought sonoff Zigbee USB 3.0 Dongle Plus.. since wrongly bought the Zigbee smart plug.. now can use it.. might getting other zigbee stuff as well since already got the coordinator/hub brows.gif
Max
post Sep 30 2022, 09:52 AM

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QUOTE(lucaswjk @ Sep 29 2022, 09:59 PM)
[attachmentid=11266313]

does anyone know what board is this?
it is mount below the alarm box.
*
cant see full picture where the wires go..
most probably power supply and charging board.
Max
post Oct 12 2022, 03:58 PM

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QUOTE(epicure @ Oct 12 2022, 02:04 PM)
Thats good that you have an LTE connected router, that you can reboot the Maxis one. I cant.. cos if i turn off the smart switch which is connected to a router, theres no way to turn it back on. However, i’ve read on reddit that there are some smart plugs that can turn on after being turned off.

I think it can also be done on HA, but i’m on homebridge and Homekit.. HA is abit too complicated for me.
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QUOTE(Oltromen Ripot @ Oct 12 2022, 03:33 PM)
I would love to have a socket that can return to "on" after a timer, then I don't need to run a separate LTE router just for a smart socket.

user posted image
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Most smart socket have that ON after power cut.
Its in Power On State option : ON , OFF , Last State.

But, if u turn OFF by app, u cant turn ON back if network cut.. unless power cut off (device will turn On back if state set to ON)

This post has been edited by Max: Oct 12 2022, 04:00 PM

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