[quote=deadwiller,Dec 9 2019, 06:57 PM]
[quote=Fubar20,Dec 9 2019, 06:55 PM]
Any other appliances connected to that power point? Or that circuit?
Sometimes the wiring from the DB doesn't just go to that power point, maybe share with other switches.


This I’m really not too sure. If it does share with others, what are my options? Change the CB to a 20A? There is nothing connected to that power point.

[/quote]

Do not simply change the MCB to 20A.

The MCB to lighting points is normally 6A MCB. Standard looping is 6 lighting points for each loop. For the 3 pin sockets, a 20A MCB is used for every 2 x 3 pin sockets. Do note that the wire diameter for lighting and wall sockets are different sizes. If you change the 6A light MCB to 20A, you risk melting the wire insulator in the wall and possible fire. The lighting wire is not meant to carry high load.

Single line need 1 wire.
Zero line need 2 wires.

Strange eh?

They can call it whatever they like but I am 100% sure it is is indeed still a capacitor

Either you want China or the USA to monitor you

I think this is not something specific.

The smart switch with no N has maximum total load. So, if total load cannot exceed this max. Maybe this is the reason. If the switch require N, no such restriction.

Even the switch that require no N can do 1kW. The ceiling fan is not high power stuff. I bet mostly less than even 100W

Unless the other 2 switches (assuming they are sharing same load) take more than 900W, then it may cause problem. However, I don;t think you will have 2 lighting points need 900W

It there is problem in your case. I think not. The capacitor will just leak probably less than 10mA and should not affect your fan at all. I don't use any cap for the fan but mine is just normal touch switch. I think you don't require capacitor too perhaps.

Looks like your house is single phase on one common N line. Should have to problem to tap N anywhere.

You are right. I was looking at the fan as just resistive load, not looking from other angle.

The fan use capacitor to provide phase lag to keep it rotating. By introducing another capacitor, the fan capacitance value changed thus making it rotate slower or not at optimum torque. So, it has nothing to do with load limitation of switch without N like I thought before

Just need to put the by-pass capacitor provided with with.

I thought the switch usually comes with capacitor other than screws.? You need to connect the capacitor across the load to prevent the LED from flashing. I think there are diagrams or description how they are connected in this forum.

Not provided?

The LED light has very low leak current thus require capacitor to by-pass. Perhaps can buy or use from other switch that provided one. It should solve the problem.

Well. The one with N also is on all the time too The power is needed for the touch switch circuitry to operate to keep the LED either in ON or OFF state.

I thought I provided the video already on where to put the capacitor. Assume that you don't have the capacitor or not provided. You can buy one from any electronics shop. Buy the type that you see on the video, that yellow one with 2 leads. This is polyester type which has no polarity. Do not but electrolytic type with +ve and -ve polarity indicator. The value for this purpose (the one in the video) is 0.33µF. I also see (if not mistaken) 175V which is not suitable for our country. You should look for 400Vac or higher.

Put the by-pass capacitor at light point as shown in diagram



As you can see the capacitor is across the bulb (or LED strip in your case). This should solve the problem.

Here's the link another video (embeding did not work )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQicRaV65zk

Capacitor can look like this also

https://si.farnell.com/multicomp-pro/mpmef4...dial/dp/3106520

This post has been edited by Zot: Jan 10 2020, 08:55 AM

You mean you already out capacitor but the touch switch is not working properly still? Try swap the capacitor from working switch. If still not working, maybe need to try another switch. It might be faulty.

You should say if you need WiFi, zigbee, etc. That way you get correct reply

Try google for say, "Best IoT routers". Most smart devices are on 2.4GHz. So, probably try to look for dual or triple band routers and for other usage like phones or laptop use 5GHz. I think of likely they are operable in 5GHz band.

Depends on your budget. So, normally the higher the price, the better the router capability like better processing power, more buffer, etc. Mesh router is good as start too.

Just googled and knew the brand first time Looks like it it Turkey brand https://airties.com/index.html. Not sure which model though.

Most problem is not hardware but just firmware.

In general (just box depth only) I believe will not fix. Enough for back of the switch and wires only. Even for sockets with USB chargers cannot fit.

Modify and make id deeper

This post has been edited by Zot: Jan 16 2020, 11:29 AM

Once you are inside and close the door, you are in a dark room