It is not something hard to do but when it first came out, Westerners were trying hard to figure out where the power came from and they even have discussion in their forums with several proposals by "engineers".

The houses in the US have N at each switch but since we follow the UK style, there is no N. So, that is why people design this circuit. I do not see any reliability or risk in this approach. It is a fantastic idea for existing house where you not require any modification or do costly rewiring. It is just plug and play in most cases.

However, there is limitation to this approach. Since the current is split into 2 paths, the maximum power to the load is limited to a bit bit lower than the circuit with N can provide. However, most can drive up to 3kW I think. So, it is not a problem for any lighting circuit. Furthermore, the wiring to high power requirement load like water heater comes with N at the switch.

I've been using smart switch for quite some time and I do not even have to put any by-bass capacitor to any light point so far even with CFL or LED lighting. Never experience any flicker at all. My touch switch is even from China cap ayam brand

My bad. I think the load max around 1kW which is plenty for lamps.

The flicker is not actually during low load on but rather it flicker when the lighting suppose to be off usually. The leakage through LED light is very low thus cannot operate the switch circuitry. So, the switch is at marginal state causing it to flicker on and off.

That is why in early model, none of the smart switch can support WiFi direct from switch. It is because the WiFi module need more current to operate. Zigbee and normal RF switch use much less current. Maybe they are able to make more efficient WiFi module now.

I mentioned somewhere before long time already. No smart switch. They are just normal touch switch. I used them to replace locations where wet fingers are possibly in use like kitchen and bathroom. One is also used for my ceiling fan which I use remote control to switch off. The reason is if there is power trip my fan will on with high speed once power return. Touch switch will default to power off (in case I am not home)

That's all but some don't like them because no physical click and flipping or rocking feeling Right now I see no urgent need for smart switches yet. Need to keep my brain to its cognitive function, remembering and a bit of exercise

This cap ayam expensive yo.... and no taste that good

Nice catch. I did not realize I typed that. From time to time you were typing something that came across your thinking than what you were actually trying to say

No. I have no smart switch. Just touch switch. Smart for me is something that operate by itself like something with sensor

Yes. Buy after 11.11. Price is cheaper since I guess the intended stock to clear is not cleared, provided the items are not hot in market.

I also bought something that is cheaper after 11.11

It is IoT and solutions generally the same. I think the one using open OS will progress faster since product makers grow too fast. You need to integrate all these product and proprietary OS system will not move fast enough. I think Tuya is not using popular open OS, do they?

Affirmative, sir.

That means they provide interface to integrate with their system. All they need to do is do proper mapping to other device. That is also quite simple for them.

I meant their OS is proprietary, but their approach is like this not much of software integration between the system and the device.

One solution I read here is to use an RF switch to control the other switch. Down the thread somewhere

There are 2 N because the 20A switch break both L and N wire to load. Basically, it ia a 2 pole 2 throw switch:

DB (L) --> Switch (L) --> Load (L)
DB (N) --> Switch (N) --> Load (N)

In your case, I believe the MCB (mini circuit breaker) is a 20A one (it should be). So, if the switch unable to handle the load, your switch will damage or in worst case get burn and caught fire. The MCB will not trip because it is still within its load rating.

Ahhh. You linked all of them together ... forget to answer.

This post has been edited by Zot: Nov 18 2019, 11:26 AM

You want to use for air-cond? The main air-cond switch is something you leave on all time. You just use your remote to on and off. Not sure what you need to program the main supply switch.

1 hp is about 746W of power. Assuming the supply is at 250V; 250V x 4A = 1kW. That is simple calculation if the load is purely resistive, but not for motor/compressor. Anyway, it is about close to that also.

The good thing about smart or mostly electronics switch, the switch contact is made at 0V AC crossing, thus no spark produced. That is why it lasted much ;longer than normal mechanical switch.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/40001554226...-c1e9477955d7-0

Me, I don't use gas for cooking

Kerosene

No need to think too complicated. Perhaps a weatherproof switch will do. Just use it to trigger something

Yes. In fact the board that control the auto-gate detect the gate for sure. Just need to find where you need to tap the signal

I just use my eye beam from window

Depends on the control board. Believe me that some control board are based on adjusted time. It will still work fine since it I'd say all auto gate has sensor to detect slight resistance to gate movement. It will stop and/or reverse once hit obstruction. This is safety feature too instead of crushing your car or people

Mostly will detect current level. Once reached the max opening or closing, motor current will peak higher on increased load, thus the motor will cut off.

Not sure about that will ever happen. I have had both type of controller board and never had such problem. Maybe it would never happened as roller and guide are stainless steel and gate is galvanized steel. The reason for change of controller were because faulty probably due to lightning.

The timer one also when there is very small pebble stopped the roller, the power will still cut off because it still detect resistance. So, timer is more like secondary if the resistance detection failed. Once stopped due to resistance, you will press the switch again and the movement will reverse. Just clear the railing and press the switch again, it will close again. The resistance sensor is quite sensitive. Even if it knock on say your car door, it will probably will not dent your car.

So, the scenario you imagine is just like what will happen when something stuck on railing.