Maybe it was just bad luck or the circuitry which cannot ramove noisy spikes which I think should not be.

The ceiling fan power normally less than 100W, probably around 75W perhaps. I've been using a touch switch probably china cap ayam but it is still fine for no less than 5 years already. Been through power trip even lightning that tripped house circuit breaker The only thing that was not working is the switch light. That became bad after around a year after installation

However, it is still working just fine even though my ceiling fan board became bad once

Type 1 is switching power supply (mentioned there) like those used in PC. You don't need that high power rating right?

Since you just need Type 2. The power adapter you have most likely use the same board like Type 2 there.

Capacitor is optional, Install only if required under certain condition.

No problem using florescent type with no neutral switch. In fact, you need starter to make traditional florescent light to work as far as I know.

Yes you know I only have dumb switch ,

There are smart switch that can work with florescent, but that would be different one that most of you are using here.

Doesn't look like it is cutting anything much. Just strolling around

The switch in your link is a switch that require no N.

Whatever they called it, the anti-flash module shown is actually a capacitor. The name sound more technical and the device must be expensive than saying 60 sen capacitor perhaps

As Fubar20 said, the WiFi module need more power, thus as far as he knew the single wire (no N) WiFi switch has capacitor. I believe the capacitor supplied with the switch is calculated to operate with that switch. So, I wonder why Jeff come with statement In order to save costs, many people use large capacitors to solve the problem of single-fire power supply. The switch should come with capacitor already. I misunderstood something?

Usually lamp especially LED would not have this reverse current. I think he was referring to kick back voltage when switching of inductive load like fan or something with motor. Normally capacitor used has voltage rating of 600V or at least twice the supply voltage.

Have you look into this? Using BT and no hub/Router required?.

At least from this region

https://www.yoswit.com/products/lighting-sw...118-2-gang.html

This post has been edited by Zot: May 19 2020, 03:13 PM

Yes, this capacitor is common and can be found in most electronics shops.

For application like this you must use safety capacitor. There are class X and class Y. Class X is meant to be connected between L and N and the Class Y is meant for connection between L to GND and/or N to GND. In this case you need Class X, usually printed on it. Use Class X2 type is enough. Normally it is non-polarize polyester type.

The link provided showed 0.22uF 500V. I found it is Polypropylene Film Capacitor with ENEC10 rating which I think qualify as Class X.

Just ask for 0.22µF 500V (or above) non-polarized capacitor. A tolerance of 5 or 10% will do.

Ask if they know about Class X or Y capacitor. Many probably not know but you normally can check on body marking. Mine one is printed X2 (Meaning Class X and subclass X2). If you only find Class Y than it is okay also. Class Y can be use to replace Class X. Class Y is more robust.

If not mistaken the Class X once failed will short and cause fuse blown (or MCB, in this case, tripped). This prevent electrical supply to continue supplying faulty device which prevent possible fire, etc. If you cannot find Class X, normal capacitor with same value still work, less safety portion.

I don't have smart switch but just normal touch switch. In my case 0.1µF is sufficient. The 0.22µF will supply more current to the switch which is required by the WiFi module.

Note: FYI -- Do not use Class X to for Class Y. Class Y is designed to failed open circuit.

Yes, but what is your point?

The capacitor in this AC circuit acts as a reactance:

Total Impedance Z = R + Xc = 0 + Xc (The R = 0 in ideal capacitor). So,

Z = Xc = 1/jωC

in which you can see in his calculation gave about 795Ω reactance value with 4µF capacitor.

For 0.22µF capacitor, the reactance value is:

Z = 1/j(314.16 x 0.00000022) ≈ 14.5kΩ.

So, the current flow through capacitor is 240/14.5 ≈ 16.6mA. This is the amount of current passed through capacitor to power smart switch.

Should be any line. Just to leak current to the switch to power the switch circuitry as far as I know at least on my dumb touch switch. Maybe expert can advise better

Can 3 way smart switch has separate phase on each switch? If so, then would it be a problem?

My bad, I meant 3 gang smart switch.

So, my question was can a 3 way smart switch independently work on 3 different phase?

Leopard link

Test pen can be tricky. If you are on ladder with rubber footing (prevent slip), your test pen most likely will not lit up and you think there is no electricity. Well, still safe if your other hand not touching anywhere other than the ladder. If you touch other metal ceiling or other wire, you might get shock

Switch without N will have less max load compare to with L in general, but much easier to install since most wall switch in Malaysian has no N wire. So, basically Pulg n Play.

Here is sample load distribution for 4 gang switch



sos

https://shopee.com.my/Smart-Wifi-Switch-(no...8094.1592373201

This post has been edited by Zot: Jun 5 2020, 04:52 PM

The capacitor supplied with the switch?

Have you tried disconnect fan and see if this solve the problem?

This switch is using WiFi, or Zigbee?

If removing is still the same, it means your light has very low operating current. What is the lamp type and the power rating on the LI and the L2?