Normally whether you need to install by-pass capacitor or not, it depends on the load (the bulb whatever types). In general, the LED light bulb leak very low current thus cannot drive the circuitry in the switch. Sometimes, the leak current is marginal leading to flickering of the LED light when in OFF state. This is when you need to add the capacitor. Otherwise, no capacitor is needed at all.

This post has been edited by Zot: Oct 14 2019, 02:44 PM

If house still under renovation, then ok. If need to pull N wire, too troublesome for me. Making hole deeper is not much a problem as it is minor compare to cutting through wall, unless you want to lay wire on surface

Yes, it will not fit unless you remove the switch

No problem at all. As you know the N wires are looped at ceiling level for every 6 lighting point and go to 1x 6A MCB. So, makes no difference to loops at switch level

I would not totally agree with pysh because you are looping at the connector points of those switches, not connecting serially through switch. If one switch is dead. it will not affect the other switch. It is the same as looping at ceiling.

You were suggested a timer, means you need to turn on when it is dark and off when it is bright, right? Also, you do not need to remotely control the light.

I suggest you get a light sensor that you can install a light sensor. There are plenty of brands and there is even bulb with built-in light sensor. I have not use any but many expert here can help for sure.

Are you sure it is ELCB not RCCB?

It is quite normal for house with 3 phase wiring has 3 separate RCCBs nowadays. Old house like mine has 1 ELCB, but I pulled another cable and put another ELCB for kitchen mainly.

No idea

Yes. Mostly the people who clings to cellphone anywhere, everywhere are youngsters. I'm under grandpa category

Every time you order unit that comes with remote will come with remote or just order remote. You do not carry remote around but out one at strategic location

Yes. Just like one for TV, one for A/V, one for fan, and one for this and that

Last time I have one that can programmed for all and now no more that trend. Like no one producing one now since many apps can handle that through cell phone. I guess probably can just buy cheap phone to [lace all around the house for remote that is more flexible than the remote

As long as the L and N return to same RCCD, it will not trip if this is what you meant... Yes.

Why not just use the one that need no N?

Everything is doable. The only problem I dislike is that if the house is already occupied, it will be dusty and messy for cement rendered wall. I've never seen contractor that really pro that contained mess in work area If new house, get it done before moving in Having N is very flexible for any future use.

My bad. It missed the relocate light connection . It is simple job only

I thought Sonoff have one already

https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-t4eu1c-wi-fi-sm...all-switch.html

Why not just use the relay in the Sonoff SV to switch another relay as dry contact" to control autogate board?

Yes. Buy a relay. Use the power from the Sonoff non-dry relay to activate this new relay. Use this new relay to control the autogate.

You want a dry relay to control auto-gate, right?

It is just across the load, like if the bulb, just connect across the L and N points of the bulb where ever location convenience.

Sure it is safe. The capacitor just leak small amount of current to power the switch. Schematically, it is providing the N connection to the switch.

You can see the difference between putting the capacitor across the switch and across the lamp in my rough diagram below



Putting at the lamp there means you create N line by bypassing the lamp. Crossing at the switch is like doing nothing

Actually, the lamp like incandescent lamp is connecting the N to the switch. So, basically, when you have the touch switch replacing the normal switch, the current can flow and power the touch switch. Since the lamp filament is high resistance, the amount of current that can flow though it is low, enough to power the touch switch but too low to glow the filament. Therefore, the lamp is actually on but just cannot see the light

Using LED lamp in place of incandescent lamp the amount of current is even lower, thus not enough power to operate the touch switch. That is why the capacitor is put at the lamp to leak a bit more current to touch switch circuitry to enable it to operate. Otherwise, the touch switch will not work at all or barely work which cause the flickering LED light.

Some touch switch can still work without bypass capacitor. Maybe it uses very less power or the LED bulb used has enough leakage current to supply to the switch. Therefore, the bypass capacitor is not a must. You just need to install if flickering happened, but if you still want to put no harm is done. The capacitor will bypass very small current due to its low value thus robbed very low current. This will not affect the operational of the LED of normal bulb.

Wah! Your auto-gate board is small

I was explaining to alucard89