Ok, I will try it out once the installer install my A100 door lock.
Apparently, I can add the Global M2 into China region.

But changing region need to pair all your 40+ switches.

You can use some 3rd party app to back up everything and when restore you can easily get back most stuff.

ehh actually there r something easier for IR/RF remote

broadlink rm4 pro

Thanks for the suggestion. I have actually tried Broadlink RM4 already, using home assistant and SmartIR. but it keeps disconnecting from the network every few minutes then reconnect.

in my case, infound that 3 nodes of M9 Plus mesh cannot sustain continuous connection.
some switches will eventually fall offline never to return.

eventually had to make use of Maxis mesh nodes to carry the wall switches, spread over multi-SSID, and set DHCP lease max 4hrs.

something about a hunch that previously when they go offline, they reconnect to wifi then asked for a totally new IP, eventually exhausting the DHCP /24 pool. So i shortened the lease time so that used IP can be reused as soon as practical.

consumer routers have limited entries for mac-based assignment.
and those tuya devices can't set static IP inside.
i don't have fancy HA server. just smartlife.
always think about what-if-i-die-and-no-one-can-continue.

Maxis is unlike Unifi:- RJ11 VoIP is with their ISP router, and if you follow @Anime4000 thread, he tested that the VoIP device must identify with certain string before Maxis allow login.
With Unifi is was easier since sub-1Gbps uses ONT with own RJ11, can pair with any router separately.

caaaan. i don't know about 1Gbps set up since its new, but the set up of 800Mbps and below is similar to Unifi, but TM don't allow access to the RJ11 of ONT, so have to rely on RJ11 of router.

If like me want to retain usage of VoIp, then have to continue using the ISP router or find ATA that can spoof model identification string.

i want to use zigbee.
BUT, no zigbee wall switch 4-gang w/ neutral.
and the zigbee UK 3-pin wall socket cannot tolerate above 250V, will turn off.

I have 2-ways switch headache for my staircase and shared bathroom too.
basically the switch on the market did not offer any suitable solutions for 2ways wall switch.
at the end, the best solution is to use normal switch on both side and sync the status.

I flashed tasmota, in it hv a feature that able synced the device's status... its device to device without server.
I use websent at first, it works but sometime doesn't sync and slow.
then I use devgroup to sync. it is much much better and fast.

try it...

Wish the active guys on the FB Group also share here ...

i no need to be expert aldy can see it is overheating.

to proof this, choose 1 to disable ur standby screen.
then use a fan to blow directly to it, or use in aircon room.

Hi all, read so many sources to suggest different methods to add neutral wire for smart switch. May I know which method is the most recommended way?

1. Add neutral wire from the light that connects to the same switch.
2. Loop from nearby Aircond/Heater switch
3. Add 1 neutral wire from DB box and loop the same wire to all the switches for neutral.

Same
My one had lines for like a couple of days. Then it disappeared

Fingers crossed

I think my option is standby at night. Day time its always on

I’m in a dilemma in between choosing smart home setup for new house.

I’ll be using homekit. Aiming for either aqara or zemismart M1 hub to use with homekit.

Any thought from sifu sifu here?