There are many alternatives others and I found online, some looked similar in spec, don't know whether available locally or not.

I think the Century battery you found is not up to spec for i-Stop.

According to GS Yausa website,

http://www.gs-yuasa.com/us/products/index.html

The "ECO.R Long Life Series" (not the "ECO.R Series" as this model's "eco"ness comes from recycling old battery into new) picture shows Q-85 type battery, which is also labelled as 90D23L. So I assume, the first two numbers of the battery name in JIS notation must be 90 and above to be above Q-85 standard.

Similarly, the Panasonic CAOS 100D23L battery and Bosch HTP 115D23L.

The Century battery you found is 55D23L, lower than the spec. The first set of number "55" could signifies the durability/performance of the battery under cycle charge. So, higher number means better durability for idle start stop cars, like i-Stop.

It is the magic battery manufacturers put in the design of the battery makes it more durable.

http://www.acdelco.com.au/PDFs/Catalogue_A...o_Batteries.pdf (page 54) model SQ85D23LEFB, it is JIS EFB type battery, similar to Bosch S5 series.

There are newer AGM battery, should performs better than EFB battery, but not sure what Bosch Japan model calls it or whether it can produce better performance than EFB type 90D23L or 80B24L, or any available AGM battery in D23L or B24L form.

AGM vs EFB battery:
http://www.duracell-automotive.com/en/prod...ew/extreme.html

So we should target 90D23L (Q-85) or 80B24L (N-55) and above battery, no matter what is the brand.

Hope my contribution helps you to find this type of battery locally, for Mazda 2, 3, and 6.






This post has been edited by RicoT: May 9 2015, 07:04 PM

We are finding too...

This battery in quoted for 65Ah at 20 hours charging rate, but it should be equivalent to 52Ah at 5 hours charging rate.

Q-85 standard:


Taken from GS-Yausa (GS Battery in Thailand)
https://www.gs-yuasa.com/gyin/en/topics/pdf/20120828e.pdf

So, when buying battery, please look at the spec.



95D23L or 70B24L is the smallest capacity you should get for iStop capability.

This post has been edited by RicoT: May 9 2015, 09:21 PM

AGM is newer technology than EFB I think?

But in the end, they will put it back to JIS notation, like 95D23R, 100D23R or 115D23R.

Without a HUD, this is better. But with HUD centre RPM is better.

Many soul red...

Mine have a half second delay too. It is normal.

little-samaCan post it in front page of "Known facts about Mazda 2".

So new and existing owners could be informed and not to be worry.

Thank you for your effort.

This post has been edited by RicoT: May 10 2015, 09:41 AM

Twist the side mirror control knob to 6 o'clock position.

This post has been edited by RicoT: May 10 2015, 11:08 AM

Given the first 60,000km periodic maintenance are all free, ~RM2.4k for a major service, give la... Change the battery too!

Any price for the shock absorbers and those lower arm (bushings or they whole lower arm)?

This post has been edited by RicoT: May 10 2015, 04:14 PM

Use until the cost of maintenance can buy a new car. Should be about 9 years.

When the i-Stop frequently iindicates battery is not charge up to enable i-Stop, should be one of the indicator that battery fail is imminent? I never encounter battery not charge enough for i-Stop, usually A/C or cold engine is the one preventing i-Stop.

This post has been edited by RicoT: May 11 2015, 02:33 AM

Yes, by then almost everything had to be replace again. The life cycle of Japanese cars are 13 years before scrap, and most European countries scrap cars above 10 years old. Means by then there are newer economical cars available. And most things are going to be replace like rubber seal around doors. I sold my old City for RM23k, bought ~RM90k. 9 years each year about RM8k depreciation. At least enough to become downpayment for next car. I don't want to buy bigger cars unless it is necessary like children grown up or become big boss of company (that time should have company car already.

Car only depreciates over time, property will appreciates, unless bubble burst. Now accumulating wealth for retirement lor.

In the owner's manual, it mentioned Q-85 and N-55 battery are i-Stop compatible, and those D23 battery with 60Ah (20 hrs rating) are not encourage to use with i-Stop.

From these webpage,
http://www.incoe.astra.co.id/eng/product/
http://www.yuasa.com.tw/_english/02_automo..._list.php?CID=1

55D23L battery are rated at 48Ah (5 hrs rating)/ 60Ah (20 hrs rating), from the owner's manual, it is not encouraged to use i-Stop.

From the previous posted Panasonic CAOS battery website and GS-Yausa statement,
Q-85 (95D23L) is rated as 52Ah (5 hrs rating).

But the most funny thing is,
N-55(S) (70B24L(S)) is rated as 36Ah (5 hrs rating).
And this battery can use i-Stop.

What is going on?!


The battery which comes with OEM I believe is 75D23L battery rated at 52Ah (5 hrs rating)/65Ah(20 hrs rating).

Try look for the local Yausa battery, Yausa Taiwan got 75D23L battery, the local here should have similar.

This post has been edited by RicoT: May 11 2015, 09:44 PM

75D23L is a more better candidate than 55D23L
http://www.lelong.com.my/panasonic-mainten...5-10-Sale-P.htm



The charging voltage is more similar to Q-85 standard listed in GS-Yausa quote Battery Association of Japan.


And similar to Panasonic JP CAOS Q-85 (95D23R) battery spec.


So the best candidate now is Panasonic 75D23L RM370.00 from the lelong.com.my seller.
Spec: 65Ah (20 hr rating) (same as OEM), 6.5A charging current (same as Panasonic CAOS Q-85 standard), CCA 533A (slightly better than OEM).

OEM Battery
Spec: 65Ah (20 hr rating), CCA 520A

This post has been edited by RicoT: May 12 2015, 03:25 AM

Yes, change a lot of things, but at least the replacement is cheaper than paying monthly installment for new car, and by 5 years, the car done paying instalments. Those things need replacing are wear and tear. I put my car to SC, so if any problem they tell me. Every replacement the car is good for another 3 years.

Basically most of mechanical things will be replaced every 100,000km. That's why 100,000km or 3 years warranty.

The only thing is older car rubber seal and plastic interior will start deteriorate pass 9 years.

Front shock absorbers
Left RM352
Right RM417

Not included labour fee.

If you want to claim battery better do so within your 3 years 100,000km warranty. You can only claim once free.

I noticed when they check the battery, the CCA value is much higher than rated 520A, about 660A.

This post has been edited by RicoT: May 12 2015, 10:02 AM

VW Polo TSI?

Yes, A properly maintained car wouldn't give a lot of headache. And can last for years. Nothing can beat longevity of original mechanical parts. The most painful one is between 4th to 5th year, need to settle loan payment and major services. But bear with it, as after loan finish settle, then you will be surprised how much savings driving a properly maintained old car can save you money compared to buy a new car at 6th year. Until everything starts to rattle here in the interior here and there and feels like it is falling apart around the 9th year. By then, any scratches you got also won't heart break. Although it depends on your tolerance to rattling sound, but you can placebo yourself "aiya old car is like that one" and carry on driving. Of course, this applies to no major accident happened to the car, touch wood, minor bumper scrape isn't too bad since bumper won't corrode. The metal body have to repaint if got bumped until metal exposed. Big stone chips, those cause a big dent and expose bare metal, need to be touch up, and smaller ones can wait until 5th year respray/touch up, so long as no corrosion. Then when sell at 9th year, let the 2nd hand car dealer bear the cost of respraying.

Of course cannot compare continental B-segment to Japanese ones. Their parts travels here further than from Japan, and the drive feeling are different. Germany made LHD car while Malaysia & Japan are RHD. Have to compare with Citroën and Peugeot B-segment.

Everyone have different tolerance level, and have their own game plan, just sharing mine. Cheers!

I know turbocharged cars have to let it idle for 30sec before switching off the engine after F1 session.