What is the different between drop in air filter and open pod air filter. In power rating, usage etc...
For a VIOS, if put drop in filter, the car will climb hill. If modify to open pork, fuah! Can fly to the moon. Power can't be measured, most if not all dyno machine will explode if put a VIOS on top
There's no more reason for not baing a MyBi. Am seriously considering after Pajero incident, and now Alphard. Considering family safety, and our country kinda crazy driving experience, I guess MyBi offer better safety then VIOS
Thanks to the recent MyBi incident, I pay a lot more attention to MyBi nowadays. Just realized how strong, how powerful the car is. Thank God my house got 2 MyBis ady. May be in future can change all cars to MyBi instead
The spec for it is ezl799, just look for a number 799 on the bottle. I still haven't found any for sale locally yet despite a mushrooming growth of CVT transmissions. Our online oil finders here still recommend 7+ litres of dexron atf, so I suppose it's a matter of time and failures before they realise CVTs exist.
Yeah it happens here a lot, where customer drove their car into the shop for transmission fluid changed, and had the car towed out after the changed
Shawie uses sports technology, single clutched Automated Manual Transmission box. The trouble is, the gearbox is literally a MANUAL gearbox, whereas there's another set of module running on a different hydraulic system to control the gears. The entire gearbox is a mixture of robotic science, the robot required it's robot oil, whereas the gearbox itself needed manual gear oil. Our local workshops, pour ATF into both gearbox and the robot. How to not damage our poor machines? In short, Shawie Auto is a mixture of AUTO + MANUAL. It utilized a robot to control a MANUAL gearbox. Driver can choose to put D and let the robot handle the gear changed, or choose M and do rally with +/- gear. It may sound like tiptronic/steptronic or whatever you wanna call the semi-auto mode is, but this is an entirely different design. It has a full manual clutch housing, operate exactly like a manual car. FC wise, probably better then any other 4AT dinosaur, because this is a 5 speed manual transmission box with a manual dry clutch controlled by a robot. For more information, go read Shawie tered
Hahahaha remember our Savvy salvage trip...all abandoned because AMT rosak...and parts get rip away faster than you can say cat in a hat. Remember the Black Savvy where the mech said want ask how much to sell? the hole car gone liao..left bare chassis only...
Yeah I remember that. It happens alot even if it's in KL, in fact the whole wide world. Even gold digger is diggin in a Shawie to salvage parts.
Put it this way, you have a manual car, but you choose to be lazy to drive a manual car. Now you put a robot in, let the robot drive the manual car. So, technically, you'll need to put Singer oil into the robot and let the robot function properly, whereas you'll still need manual transmission fluid for the manual transmission car.
By putting in ATF to the robot or the transmission will kill either 1 or the both of them. End of story.
On the side note, you're right about complication of any other transmission then a CVT. Infact CVT is 1 of the earliest designed of transmission in the history, where utilizes 2 different CONE shapped roller to modulate speed.
Even F1 banned this old technology, simply because it's so efficient that driver doesn't even need to decide when to change gear. Put this in real life situation with a MT GaGa/ AT GaGa and a CVT GaGa
MT 1) From straight line 190kph on 5th gear, around 7krpm heading to 100R corner. 2) At about 150meters before apex, you hit the brake hard, drop gear to 4th, then 3rd hitting about 6krpm at about 120kph 3) The car slowly taking traction hitting the apex with the same speed and gradually increasing speed around 130kph. You're about 6.5krpm now 4) After the apex, you're still on a right turn angle, but your speed already reaching 140kph, but RPM at redline 7200rpm. Delima: Should I upshift during a corner? If I don't, I'll eat the rev limiter, or maintain speed at 140kph until safely get by the corner? What if I hit the clutch, suddenly the non-LSD gearbox gets a feedback from the outter left wheel, sent me into a spin, or right up to the moon?
AT 1) From straight line 190kph on 4th gear, around 6.8krpm heading to 100R corner. 2) At about 150meters before apex, you hit the brake hard, speed drastically dropped to 120kph but AT box sense torque from the road feedback higher then engine torque, so no gear drop. You're about 3krpm(dropped out of torque band yo!) 3) The car slowly taking traction hitting the apex, but definitely much slower then an MT now because dropped out of efficient torque band You managed to bring the speed up to about 130kph, at this time about 3.5krpm 4) After the apex, you're still on a right turn angle, but your speed is reaching 140kph, RPM at about 3.8krpm. Delima: Should I go WOT or continue gradually increase speed by waiting the RPM kicked into efficient torque band? Either you hit WOT, sudden engine torque increment lead to downshift then the car go super understeer, or you continue to lag behind and wait until you hit the efficient torque band.
CVT 1) From straight line 190kph on D gear, around 6.5krpm heading to 100R corner. 2) At about 150meters before apex, you hit the brake hard, dropped to 120kph, 4krpm 3) The car slowly taking traction hitting the apex with the same speed and gradually increasing speed around 130kph. You're about 4~5krpm now depending on your tire efficiency/feedback 4) After the apex, you're still on a right turn angle, your speed reaching 140kph, RPM at around 4~5krpm depending on your tire efficiency/feedback. 5) You hit the gas pedal as you know your tire traction, despite it's screaming but you don't bother. WOT all the way. This time, you're over taking all the AT/MT GaGas beside you at 150kph and continuously increasing, your RPM still stays at 6krpm. 6) Exited corner at 160kph, RPM goes up from 6krpm further to 6.2krpm as DRIVEN pulley already maxed out at this point of time. By now, the MT GaGa is about 1.5 car distance behind, the AT GaGa is about 2 car distance behind. 7) Continue to increase speed. RPM stays around 6.5krpm until max speed attain.
I hope you see the difference from the above scenario.
No kenot GaGa = 12k, Ganjil RM500, B!Ba 8k, MyB! A 12k, MyB! B -15k after bank loan repayment minus depreciation, LMST 5k, Shawie 1.5k
So, no kenot.
QUOTE(WTFisLYN @ May 12 2015, 01:56 AM)
7 Cars? Big family? I used to have 7 Cars at one time. Don't even ask. 3 DESTROYED AND SCRAPPED. 1 LOSS DUE TO ARSON. WORST THING IS THAT ALL OF THEM WERE NOT COVERED BY THE STUPID INSURANCE COMPANIES. LONG STORY. DON'T BOTHER ASKING. DO NOT WANT TO RELIVE THE HORROR. I DO NOT WHY STILL THAT B47u@# IGP NOT YET APPROVED MY FIREARM'S LICENSE AFTER 10 YEARS AND ALL THIS B_||$#|+.
Most of them are me and my waifu name, except the B!Ba is my aunt, and the negative galued MyB! is my BIL.
I'm glad you mentioned F1 banning them. They were very quick to ban them after they had worked out how to handle F1 power output, their advantage was immediately obvious.
QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 11 2015, 09:51 PM)
before everyone here wants to go vroom vroom, our CVT is nowhere near the ones used in F1.
Ours are jerky, retarded, dim-witted and slow. Literally got 'PUNCHed'
QUOTE(athrunzaru @ May 12 2015, 06:39 AM)
even though i always punch the car so it 'goes', the cvt punch me back...haha
To reply u guys on my CVT experience. Yes indeed our Plotong GaGa Punch indeed will falcon punch. I can't brain how it make such huge difference between Hongda Shitty DSi / Inspaliah aka Lancer / Prebet IAFM. I know, having an "automatik" badge is supposed to feel auto, but unknowingly as a long tim MT driver, I kinda fall into GaGa CVT trap. Love the clutch punching sensation. I recalled my 1st experience in stole my father's kar key, my bro as an instructor guiding me on the pedals. I was told gradually release clutch pedal to an extend where the RPM start to drop, simultaneously increase gas pedal. I did marvelously on my 1st gear, when reaching speed for 2nd, here comes the "punch". Due to inexperience in handling so many things at the same time, I have trouble coordinating my gas/clutch pedal. I released my clutch pedal but forgot to gradually input my gas, so the car jerks 1 time and start to slow down. Out of panic, I quickly jap the gas pedal, off the car leap forward I was so scared the car will crash, quickly release the gas pedal Again, the car slow down. Took me a minute(probably longer) of jerking back & forth to get to the right input volume of my gas pedal. I won't know exactly how that feels, will have to ask my bro to describe it when I see him
However, back to CVT. I think I handle it quite well with my lousy MT driving skill. I can roughly estimate when the clutch is engaging, when is the engine torque sending to the ground, when the ground feeding back torque to the transmission. To me, the "punch" is minimal or non-detectable. Won't know, I could be wrong! Maybe the few CVT GaGas I've driven is in extremely good condition, or my ex-company purchased those engineered from Williams FW15C But 1 thing for sure, the exhaust system if not being done properly, the "punch" could be significant. I had 1 short test drove a trade vehicle where customer unable to repay their loan, the car went for repo. It has an ever so loud exhaust pipe that will literally wake the entire KL up in the morning. As soon as I press the gas pedal, the car will be choking forward. It feels like carrying a 3 tons rock at the back where the car struggle to move forward. After further inspection, to found it has no midbox, a horrible designed but good looking header with a straight flow small tube shaped Kancil muffler at the back.
As for any other CVT cars that I've driven, there's no "punch" at all, just like any other AT car without shiftshock at all Buttery smooth yo
okay, i found a ketuk shop at usj1 area, repair my problem for rm180 or less, include spray the whole panel till back wheel arch, not just affected area. harap2 this uncle will do wonderful job for me. kamsiah for all ur inputs.
yang suruh pasang side skirt tu, memang i wanted, but repair cheaper compared to buy sideskirt, so repair dulu la. slay also quote cheapest side skirt siap paint is 200. haha
They're very good, and the Ford Falcon's (at least the 6 cylinder ones) are likely better but the average family that were pitched at 50 years ago has changed and they're more suited to a niche market than a general one. Australia is a land of strictly enforced speed limits now so the open road is more suited to the lowest power car on the road as these very powerful cars, I had a Falcon a few years ago and it was painful having to control boy instincts and just plod along, it's far more fun to have less power and be able to play with it a bit. Another factor is 99.9% of our population is crammed into busy cities which naturally have tight parking bays, something that's no fun with these RWD monsters. Police here would have a ball if they could be transplanted to Genting Highland road for a day, plenty of $1000 fines to be dished out if it was under our rules QLD speeding fines
Sent my car 1pm, collected back at 5pm. end product picture
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
in process
siap tarik back and smoothen and cement a bit
end product. quite satisfied actually.
For those who want me intro them this shop, here is the contact:
The Tops Auto Centre Mr. Kew Fook Hau 0122926199 Lot 754/14, Jalan Subang 3, Subang Jaya Light Industrial Estate, 47510 SJ
Ini boley tahan Berapa damage in total? I got 1 full stretched tepi, side seal, rear fender, pintu depan penumpang, pintu belakang driber, fender depan penumpang, monet belakang. Hopefully below 500 can setel
I shift around 6250rpm @4th gear. That's where my peak power is. Therefore I have put a mark on my RPM meter to remind me not to rev until redline because anything after that power is going downwards. I have did a dyno run on each gear to find it's peak power so I know which RPM is best to upshift and fully utilizing the powerband and to stay inside the powerband.
You need to know @ what RPM your car produces the peak power and not simply rev rev until engine explode to go fast. To add shifting speed also important....less rpm drop the better
Agreed. To top that, every engine has slight difference in terms of balancing/fitness/valve tension. Your car could be 6250rpm, who knows n3w is at 8000rpm
IF you do NOT mind are all your family's 7 cars bought second - hand? None bought brand NEW?
Most sekonhen. Some P2s are bought new until today. Namely 1 of the Ganjil, was here since 1994, now FIL is using it. Left the Plotongs are all sekonhens.
rosak means malfunction ie something no longer performing it's intended function...
koyak simply means break, torn apart, bent, etc. etc.
QUOTE(wankel @ May 21 2015, 04:31 PM)
bugger Until the crack spreads further I'll try to get away with rosak.
QUOTE(dares @ May 21 2015, 04:38 PM)
apa apa apa
u got heard ppl say windscreen rosak before anot
This is some funny shiet. I'd like to hear how Jim pronounce it Oh wait, he's got a filipino waifu iirc, so probably he can get the waifu to help him pronounce it properly as Bahasa pronunciation very similar to Tagalog
* LOW MILEAGE * CLEAN INTERIOR * WELL MAINTAINED * ORIGINAL PAINT * 100% ACCIDENT FREE * CLEAN INTERIOR * TIP TOP CONDITION * ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION ALL GOOD RUNNING CONDITION * SUSPENSION GOOD CONDITION LIKE NEW
* 2 AIRBAGS * EBD ,ABS SYSTEM * ELECTRICAL SIDE MIRROR * REVERSE SENSORS
*LOAN UP TO 9 YEARS *HIGH LOAN AVAILABLE *LOW DOWNPAYMENT *LOW INTEREST
DOCUMENTS FOR LOAN APPLICATION - 1. MY CARD (IC) & DRIVING LICENSE 2. LATEST 3 MONTHS PAYSLIP 3. EPF(KWSP) 4. BANK BOOK OR BANK STATEMENT 5. ELECTRIC / WATER BILL