What is the most effective way to kill off BBA? It has infected some of my hairgrasses.

Planning to get some amano shrimps this weekend to see if it works.

just use cotton bud, dip in excel and wipe it at bba.

h2o2 works for me..spot treatment using syringe..carefully read instruction on the net and description on your bottle..there's 1 time i thought 3% & 6% concentrated is not much different..the net using 3% type, mine is 6%, and i use same dose just like on the net..and boommm..more than half of my fish population (neon+cherry barb) died.. T_T

3 days blackout also works..if it doesn't, try doing 3days blackout - 3days light and follow by another 3days blackout..

did try zero algae..this one is super strong liaoo..half of recommended dosing is quite enough..or maybe 60% from recommended dosing..dont try doing full dosing..

never try excel..

Please let us know how it goes. Because last time I used algaecide, my shrimps died. Never tried it again. But I'm curious about other's experience. You might have a different experience.
Btw, if you want, I still have OF Zero Algae in my cabinet - it was used only once. Anyone wants it (with compliments), please PM. I don't ever anticipate using this, so no problem for others to have it.
It depends, bro. On your tank's bio load. For shrimp only tanks or nano tank with fishes, I think ok. For 2 footer planted tank with fishes, then no.

i've done both, also no prob. but need to off ur filter about 15min. else no point on doing spot treatment
OF zero algae a big no-no to me. not only algae, my tank also became zero   

not only fauna. even flora also effected.
my s.repens growth was stunned, moss and fissiden wipe out

You should have given them heavy dose of co2 to help the plant acclimatise to the new environment quicker when starting the new tank. Fert can be skipped for the first week and gradually increase the dosage after second week.

I'd say do daily cleanup of diatom and dead leaves and WC as frequent as possible (2 days once). Do you have live stocks in it?

Hi Dave,
Many advice on the net - very confusing. Which to follow? Haha, I went through the same snag when I setup my 2 footer. One year later, I setup my 3 footer, and this time took advice from the pros only (ADA) and did it in the way that ADA would when they setup a new tank. The result was no unmanageable algae issues during setup. And thereafter, algae was always manageable. There are small episodes of BBA and green water (having that now), but its manageable. Every tank will have algae - even ADA showroom tanks, and Takeshi Amano's, but its managed by maintenance.

I'm not promoting ADA - you can use alternatives, but your equipment has to be on par. Filtration, bio media, lights, temperature. If these are not adequate, you will struggle with algae every now and then in the later stages.

During the setup phase, plants must be dense. How dense, I need to give you a booklet that shows the density - but the gap is like 2-3 cm for the carpet. Once flooded, ferts start from setup day. Potassium ferts only for first week (meaning, no trace ferts). And Green Bacter and Phyton Git from day one. Daily dosed. The latter are very important, especially Phyton Git because that impedes algae. WC is twice a week, for the first 2 weeks. Thereafter is weekly.

Trace ferts starts on week 2 (day 7 onwards). Diatoms will appear around 1-2 weeks. To control this, add 3-5 Ottos, and 1-3 SAE (for 2 footers). Many will question this, because the tank is not fully cycled. Even I questioned this, but I swallowed the bitter pill and just taroh them in. And it worked. My diatoms were under control - and no fish died. The diatoms were not even visible after that. Past 14 days, add in between 10-20 Yamatos (for 2 footer). And with weekly maintenance, and good equipment, and good ferts - no visible algae during setup phase.

Disclaimer is this was my experience. I'm sure there are many other ways to do it, and many people have had good success with other methods.

After the tank have stabilized, you can remove the cleaning crew and just keep the bare minimum.

I plan to reuse my tank, filter, light etc. Planning a tank with low tech / without CO2. Plant will go for Pelia(as tree) and monte carlo(as carpet in foreground). Is that possible? Also looking for suitable long looking grass (straw like), any suggestion

Actually I have no experience in low tech, so maybe those who have done low tech can better answer your question. I don't know if MC can grow without CO2 - can someone share their experience with MC?

not sure if japanese hairgrass would survive no co2 condition..maybe worth looking for..

wow..nice..
in that low tech setup..u use liquid carbon or not?.

Are they shrimp safe?

I'm trying black-out method for my tank. My hairgrass and flame moss is plagued with BBA.

Yesterday night was day 3, i opened up and shone some light into the tank and it seems like the BBA is still there, no color change on the BBA and the BBAs doesn't seem weakened.

I'm trying for a few more days. Ideas or tips anyone?