Can I ask what is the Difference between 19mm and other smaller roller for front roller? Cornering speed and straight lane speed differences ?

Hello again,

On my last week race, our champ had a freaking 16 sec best time on the high speed track. My cars' best time was 21+ sec.

I ran out of options / ideas on what to do on my current resources:
MA and AR chassis
both in 3.5 gear ratio
both in super large hard tires
Mach Dash for MA
Ultra for AR
Both in rear sliding damper
Both DA 12-13mm in front
Both 19 mm at back (single roller)

Currently, I applied counter gears using small diameter washers. I think it improved performance since I did not charge my battery since the race (Sunday) and it was still able to get 21 secs.

My MS lightweight project is still on hold due to budget.

What I noticed is that every try I spray McKenic Contact Cleaner on the gears and motor, the results were erratic. Sometimes it gets 21, then 22, then 23 secs and go back to 21. I think it's time to use motor oils and grease. Up to now, I only used McKenice Contact Cleaner (orange) as the lubricant of gears and motor. Any advise on what to purchase and what to mix (magic formulas) for the oil? Does use of grease and motor oil make a very big advantage compared to McKenic / RP7?

PS: What does AKD mean?

I have hard tires from the Super Large Tires. As the locals here saw my car run, they advised me to trim it since it is still bouncing on jumps.
I do monitor the battery. My Eneloop 1900 battery volt reading is 1.47 to 1.48. I charged it the night before and let it charge again before the race.

Do u think using McKenic (WD40 the like) both cleaning and and lubrication is not enough? Should I use a slightly thick oil for lubricating both gears and motor?

I'm also in the same boat as u ,my MA was having 27.x sec when the TQ is 23.x second at my last attended race due to MA originally is heavier on weight itself .
Now I'm learning how to reduce the weight of both MA & AR to get a better speed so will potong here & there .
The battery & motor is always the key to achieve good track time . No doubt .

found out some racer... beli mahal mahal stuff... after masuk competition few times kalah.. straight jual stuff and pencen. facepalm... i tot mini 4wd is suppose to be fun and challenging ur mind?

Looks like I have a malpractice. I always apply McKenic (orange) hours before and minutes before the race. People were like advising me to apply it every now and then. I thought it is a practice to put lubricants on every race / practice. Even per runs. Most of us do that practice here. 1 person told me that these contact cleaner / lubricant evaporate easily which is why, they make their own formula (use of motor oils) to lessen evaporation of the lubricant between races.

When I used the McKenic (orange), I noticed that the tamiya plastic turns white. The white thing seems to be like a residue since I can scrape it off with my finger nails. I was worried at first. Reading the directions of the Silicone spray, it's a dry lubricant. Maybe McKenic has that composition also. If not, my car's chassis is starting to deteriorate XD

Singer Oils seemed to be not so advisable here because it destroys plastic (someone conducted tests on variety of lubricants). I do noticed some still apply it.

My progress about lubricant research
Since a lot were concerned of plastic deterioration due to lubricants, I tried to look for plastic compatible oils. A lot of forums said that silicone based were the safest on plastic as they use them on airsoft.

I searched deeper about the contents of Tamiya's oil applicator and found an article that it's PAO (Polyalphaolefin) content is highly safe on plastics. Apparently, when I look at a local store of motor oils, they do not mention what composition does it have (because it's their secret formula). I researched further about motor oils and all I see is that motor oils today even fully synthetic have petroleum (esters) additives which can deteriorate plastics.

Lithium based grease on the other hand is a bit confusing. Some says it is compatible, some are not. As one article mentioned, if the label says can be used on plastics, then use it.

I just bought Silicone Spray a while ago. I'll let you know what happens.

PS: Regarding roller height... We all know that the higher the roller height, the more stable the car will be. But does anyone know the pros and cons of having same roller height for front and back? Because my setup has middle height at the front, and higher height at the back.

Not only that, Tamiya Speedtech Race seems to be dead for abouth a month now, no race event held as there is no existing racing center here in our area. Unless we go to Manila (100 KM distance) I dunno why people are hoarding but there is no race nearby.

you know what, it may be weird me saying this. but I actually am enjoying the fact that the M4WD scene is going down or at least not at its peak as it should be. speaking on behalf of a racer cum cosmetic builder

to begin with, it gives space for experienced racers like me to approach newer setups instead of the typical S2 Long Jump setup that we all know off.
slowly started picking up VS for semi. MS & MA for speed. might approach Italian AR    I see potential in that chassis
-it's not just me. I see Jai of SpeedHouz developing his own style of racing that sorta looks like Nippon cars. he began with that FRP short car. then the small dia tyres (you get from SX kits), and recently, another new setup with him using the 2mm popsicle stick at rear that manage him to score TQ at TU's January Semi Speed Race.

for beginners on the other hand, they can come down to the track for practice and consult us seniors with more ease (since the crowd isn't as hot as it used to be). last time we couldn't keep up with the amount of newbies coming in the scene. at the end, we got bad mouthed like "senior sombong" or as we all have heard before in early 2014 "racer TU poyo" HAHAHAHAHA. lol. it's okay. what's past is passed.

and lastly, with the scene not at its peak, genuine racers like us are once again able to obtain parts that we want/need for upcoming race(s). boy we all remember that period of time when the FRP popsicle stick and basic tune up was a rare item. lmfao!

if new approach, new setups, more space for beginners, and ease of obtaining parts are the bright side of the scene dying, I am totes cool with it!
racers come and go. people change. (unexpected) commitments come. (expected) commitments go. they do what they have to. we do what we have to 

sincerely,

Put lower clearance for brakes let it slow it even more ?
Stabilisers ?
Hmm what other reasons still left out ?

Front roller angle : 4.5˚
HD3
All super hard
3.5 gear

My VS still can't clear LC. Hahahahhaa.

Your front side ex looks like it's got different holes 

15th right? definitely not going LOL

Hi guys, I just painted my Raikiri cowl with Pactra color spray & the outcome was rough & unrefined.
What can I use to remove the paint and not damaging the default black color from the plastic Raikiri cowl?
I should have bought Tamiya TS color spray can in the 1st place, geez!
Who here is into plastic cowl spraying pls share some insight & tips. TQ

for can spraying, buy those PS-coded Tamiya brands. other brands also can like Duratrax. but Tamiya is cheaper and easier to obtain in my books. avoid being an ignorant prick like that person in Tamiya Black Tuna whom sprayed TS on his clear poly cowls

anodized effect on hard cowl or clear poly cowl bro?
Like this one? (poly cowl)

[attachmentid=4391819]
[attachmentid=4391821]

and ffs, black tuna only play with mono colour. as a cosmetic builder, I say that is a fail. shows lack of creativity. 0 point for colour coordination. auto show contest don't give you marks on how expensive your parts are, lulz. so bij pliz *flicks hair*

and liquid masking tape ..very useful when on curved surface

sifu sifu plz enlight me abt roller: Im looking for a pai of 19mm front roller, which type is more prefered? (normal aluminium roller / roller with plastic ring / roller with rubber o-ring) TQ =)

Damn! Really ah. I am re tuning my belanja car. Replacing the front 830's with 19mm's. But I only have plastic rings. Never knew the force would be so strong that it will break it. Damn...

noted.

anyone weighted HG 19mm normal vs. the lightweight (6 holes) and compare them before? I curious to know how much weight difference between these 2