200 I think... could have used lower grit too. LOL.

depends on how you use them.
some people like heavy wheels, but some prefer lighter setups

where did u get those? do they really come together like that?


it has no more than collectible value as far as i'm concerned.

I think in Malaysia here we are a bit spoiled because we can get loose parts, so sometimes there is no need to buy a kit. Limited edition kits, in complete box as it is, are usually bought by collectors. And we also have the choice of buying only specific parts like wheel sets only, chassis only, etc.

Banzai shipping is like the most expensive among the 3 that I don't even bother ordering car kits from them anymore.
Their stuff always ran out of stock pretty quick too.
I would only order small parts, in big quantities, and get em shipped using the cheapest method (the normal shipping without tracking). A bit risky, but so far I never had any bad luck with Japanese shipments *touch wood*

BIG and COB are my favs

Blacktuners make their cars for show off, while BIG (and the likes) actually race their cars.

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 19 2015, 02:55 PM

course out boyz
they're somewhat closely related to BIG

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 19 2015, 03:14 PM

pretty sure it's Tamiya Korea exclusive
have to get from Korean sources, or imported from there.

i assume it's for malaysia, singapore, philippines and thailand?

now that you mention it, it's more likely indonesia, since there is tamiya philippines in the pinoy land.

Most of the time speed setup uses AO 830 because of
- lightweight factor
- smoothness (compared to large size roller with 520 bearings, or 9~13mm roller bearings) Tamiya's AO 830 bearing is the best choice due to easy maintenance and doesn't rust.

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 20 2015, 07:28 PM

Minimal angle, just enough that the car won't fly at corners.
Sometimes you could do with zero (or near zero) angle, depending on the layout

But for speed with LC, you'll definitely need some angle to help counter the LC

just like @AF21 said, sprint dash will not be able to pass bridge LC

if you watch japan speed races, their layout only use LC due to original Tamiya 3 lane circuits only comes with bridge type LC. and for this, their races are often limited to torque tuned or atomic tuned, and sometimes rev tuned motor only... not because the organizer says so, but due to the layout restriction.

when you have light weight and FRP reinforced VS chassis with full bearing transmission, and ultra large diameter tires ... running on flat course, it's really really fast even on atomic.

The guys in Kuching occasionally does speed + LC races since last year. Haven't actually seen the same kind of race anywhere locally, lately. I tried to organize one last year, but not many interested even with cheap entry fee

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 20 2015, 10:49 PM

pakai cowl tu takyah pakai clip dah. tebuk skru aje, atau buat hanging jaw

anyone got picture/guide for original AKD front?
planning to do super X AKD project

Tamiya races always have lane changers, either bridge type or rainbow type.
My setup is for speed with rainbow lane changers.

It looks so low in the pic, but in reality it doesn't scrap the track when going up on the banks.
There's actually a few mm clearance when going through the bank

Unlike some people who does not have common sense, they have the screw heads at the bottom so low that their cars scrape tracks like nobody's business.

When I look at your car picture, I mean, I'm not sure how you guys set up the rollers over there, but we here use rollers on its specifically assigned holes.
For example, the most outer hole is for 9mm, the mid one for 13mm, and the most inner one for 19mm. That's the standard followed by everyone, as far as I'm concerned. We don't install rollers by 'feel' lol.

I know Indonesian mini 4wd racer fits roller to the almost exact width of the track lane, but those are not Tamiya race. They're Soda or Nascar stuffs, which have different approach in setup.



With Ultra Dash, try use higher stabilizer at the front. Just double rollers without a tall positioned stabilizer is not enough. Get the stabilizing pole to be at least the same height of the wheel, but not too high.
But since the layout is just using rainbow, you could just skip the double roller and go for 9mm ball bearing, or better, the Tamiya AO 830 ball bearing as roller. They're light, smooth and doesn't rust.

As for your front bumper plates, FRP wont cut it, really. Because it will somehow flexes at high speed cornering, which could make your car fly out, or just reduces your cornering speed. Get at least a 2mm HG carbon plates.
You could use normal FRP if the motor is limited to the lightweight ones like stock motor, torque tuned or atomic. But with more powerful motor, use HG carbon plates, 2mm at least.

You might also want to change the roller hole position. Use your 13mm double roller in the middle hole (the 2nd last hole).



I have no comment regarding 2-lane tracks due to no experience with them.

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 24 2015, 10:52 PM

2 FRP superglued might be a better choice than FRP-spacer-FRP
because spacers add unnecessary weight

The reason we use smaller rollers and minimal accessories/attachment is to reduce weight.

In Malaysia, most organizers stick to the standard Tamiya Japan rules, so we could only have 6 rollers at max, and no Ultra/Plasma motor allowed (although at rare times these motors are allowed by some small time organizers).

Our speed-oriented setup is usually more toward lightweight and simplicity. Which is why we use Tamiya AO 830 bearings, which are a bit costly, but low maintenance and high durability and smoothness.

For races with speed limited motor (torque/atomic/rev) we tend to go as light as possible (Super II, VS). Major chassis cutting with FRP/carbon reinforcements.
But with races with higher speed motor (mach dash pro/sprint dash) chassis durability and hardness is also very important, because 'flexing' usually apparent when more powerful motor used. Our choice of chassis are usually MS and reinforced Super II, and recently discovered potential the AR.

My opinion about large rollers like 19mm ones, is that they wiggle a bit. For me that is not ideal when paired with powerful motors. There is also a bit more weight in them. Some people don't mind. I only use them for other type of race though.

my setup always 100% ori
even the screws and nuts

I think Tamiya Crusz still have them for cheap.
Where did u get yours?

I'm making Laser Gill Super X AKD

my attempt to do the 'original AKD' setup
learned from Zul TU