I am saving up.

Saving up for something which appreciates, instead of depreciate.

VIOS

SAT mode ?

OKla, YAB mau flip table liao. And since we are talking about ambient temperature affecting engine performance....

Remember last time I was contemplating insulating the intake hose and airbox? and titanrev already went ahead and wrap the airbox with aluminium wrap?

I've been thinking, while it is true that the intake piping and airbox may soak up heat from the engine bay, but the air going into the engine actually passes through those components very quickly, isn't it? That means, the time a particular volume of outside air spent inside the airbox and the associated pipings are not long enough to cause them to heat up much.

That means, if the air the car sucks in is hot, it will be hot when it enters the TB. If it is cold, it will still be cold. If your open pod is sucking hot air from the engine bay, no amount of insulation on the piping can cool it down. So it is more important to suck in cold air in the first place, than to try to keep it from heating up enroute to the TB.

I know gunker has observed the temperature changes before and after the aluminium wrap mod, so I might be missing something.

Thoughts?   

DYNO proven, SAT was nothing but a transform button. Once you pressed, the low life creature called GaGa suddenly transformed into RUBBISH.

do you guys use semi synth EO and service every 5000 or use fully synth EO and service every 10000 for your Saga?

OKla, YAB mau flip table liao. And since we are talking about ambient temperature affecting engine performance....

Remember last time I was contemplating insulating the intake hose and airbox? and titanrev already went ahead and wrap the airbox with aluminium wrap?

I've been thinking, while it is true that the intake piping and airbox may soak up heat from the engine bay, but the air going into the engine actually passes through those components very quickly, isn't it? That means, the time a particular volume of outside air spent inside the airbox and the associated pipings are not long enough to cause them to heat up much.

That means, if the air the car sucks in is hot, it will be hot when it enters the TB. If it is cold, it will still be cold. If your open pod is sucking hot air from the engine bay, no amount of insulation on the piping can cool it down. So it is more important to suck in cold air in the first place, than to try to keep it from heating up enroute to the TB.

I know gunker has observed the temperature changes before and after the aluminium wrap mod, so I might be missing something.

Thoughts?   

Mineral oil for 15000

Heat wrapping is the ONLY economical way to improve intake temperature. Your entire statement is KOREK, if the air temperature being settled in the first place, we don't even need whatever intake ram, the trouble is in the hot afternoon, road temperature is standing at 80~85'C. Hot air from surface to 4ft above are around 60'C mixing with exhaust heat blown by. So your car literally breathing atleast 50'C and above in the afternoon. Having heat wrapped the intake funnel/airbox is not a bad idea. But everything is double edged sword. It makes hell lot of difference when you're DRIVING in the afternoon with the heat wrapping, but it TRAP heat in a standstill traffic So yes, if you use the OBD to check on litre consumed per hour, heat wrapped intake would consume even more petrol in a standstill traffic just to make the engine stay alive.

OKla, YAB mau flip table liao. And since we are talking about ambient temperature affecting engine performance....

Remember last time I was contemplating insulating the intake hose and airbox? and titanrev already went ahead and wrap the airbox with aluminium wrap?

I've been thinking, while it is true that the intake piping and airbox may soak up heat from the engine bay, but the air going into the engine actually passes through those components very quickly, isn't it? That means, the time a particular volume of outside air spent inside the airbox and the associated pipings are not long enough to cause them to heat up much.

That means, if the air the car sucks in is hot, it will be hot when it enters the TB. If it is cold, it will still be cold. If your open pod is sucking hot air from the engine bay, no amount of insulation on the piping can cool it down. So it is more important to suck in cold air in the first place, than to try to keep it from heating up enroute to the TB.

I know gunker has observed the temperature changes before and after the aluminium wrap mod, so I might be missing something.

Thoughts?   

o.o , look like works auto feel . I also less use SAT button  lol "GaGa suddenly transformed into RUBBISH."

use JTX Oil is it? 

I'm not f***in with ya. Ask any of those CVT owner whose went for dyno, they use all 3 modes from D/L and SAT. D works perfect on all region. L brings the torque in earlier, but after certain speed it switched back to D(internally without us knowing it other than observed from dyno chart). That however, the SAT engaged makes the entire torque curve dropped to drain. Seriously a piece of garbage in the inventory of GaGa CVT, for the sake of old unkers who refuse to give up old type 4AT dinosaur shift shock(gear change) feeling

I invest less than 100 every oil change, so that very reputable API SQ grade oil is out of the picture regardless. Too advanced for my GaGa

I invest less than 100 every oil change, so that very reputable API SQ grade oil is out of the picture regardless. Too advanced for my GaGa

David Bro , do you have any idea about dashboard left side passenger rattling noise when in low speed ? 

Double posted 

No idea, unless pay me enough to dismantle your car

ed