Aiyoh... why the tered name so.... cialat one...?

No fair!

talking about god car, when i was in brunei the car sped by us at 180 i guess. dad was driving at 160 don want to go faster 

i dont understand....can explain at bro why ts comparing saga with vios which is almost double the price?

blm habis, dad was driving god car's big brother. haha

Ya... I as penyelamat dan perwira Saga protest this! If not changed... i go make polis repot

Walao how cam so fast new thread lol

means I ada sensitive butt like you also...   

but yeah, very annoying sometimes when u cant even potong a fully loaded courts mammoth lorry in the afternoon. -.-

(last statement is hyperbole but meh, at least that was what I felt)

nowadays I just hentam L and press a bit more throttle only if such condition happen. I rather force the CVT to change to close ratio faster, rather than hentam WOT and wait for the 'miracle' to happen while staying in D.

Sat mode just to bluff peiple only

L and SAT

one is one alphabet, another has three. big difference.

DYNO proven, SAT was nothing but a transform button. Once you pressed, the low life creature called GaGa suddenly transformed into RUBBISH.

Heat wrapping is the ONLY economical way to improve intake temperature. Your entire statement is KOREK, if the air temperature being settled in the first place, we don't even need whatever intake ram, the trouble is in the hot afternoon, road temperature is standing at 80~85'C. Hot air from surface to 4ft above are around 60'C mixing with exhaust heat blown by. So your car literally breathing atleast 50'C and above in the afternoon. Having heat wrapped the intake funnel/airbox is not a bad idea. But everything is double edged sword. It makes hell lot of difference when you're DRIVING in the afternoon with the heat wrapping, but it TRAP heat in a standstill traffic So yes, if you use the OBD to check on litre consumed per hour, heat wrapped intake would consume even more petrol in a standstill traffic just to make the engine stay alive.

I'm not f***in with ya. Ask any of those CVT owner whose went for dyno, they use all 3 modes from D/L and SAT. D works perfect on all region. L brings the torque in earlier, but after certain speed it switched back to D(internally without us knowing it other than observed from dyno chart). That however, the SAT engaged makes the entire torque curve dropped to drain. Seriously a piece of garbage in the inventory of GaGa CVT, for the sake of old unkers who refuse to give up old type 4AT dinosaur shift shock(gear change) feeling

I invest less than 100 every oil change, so that very reputable API SQ grade oil is out of the picture regardless. Too advanced for my GaGa

I invest less than 100 every oil change, so that very reputable API SQ grade oil is out of the picture regardless. Too advanced for my GaGa

No idea, unless pay me enough to dismantle your car

ed

frm my car observe stock airbox - idling during traffic highest it goes is 69c lowest also ard 60-65c, while driving highest ard 60-62c lowest can get ard 52-55c.

Open Pod (my setup - without custom heatshield) - idling can go as high as 80c, lowest also ard 75c, while driving highest ard 65-70c lowest ard 58-60c.

Open Pod (my setup - with custom heatshield) - idling highest 70-75c, lowest 60-65c, while driving highest 60-65c, lowest ard 45-50c

Open Pod (my setup - with custom heatshield + CAI) - idling highest 70-75c, lowest 60-65c, while driving highest 50-55c, lowest 38-40c

Thts all base on the OBD readings...

TQ

P/S : will plonk back stock airbox and will try to do sumthing on it... dunno can be done or not...