Thats called the SAT - Simulated Auto Transmission mode

That is a button to simulate shifting feel of 6 virtual fixed gears. To me when i see [S] means "Slow / Sluggish" because it feels as though it up shifts abit too far in its programmed gear ratios. But it makes you feel more relaxed - This is me though.
Yes it makes the engine feeling drag. But its for you to hear the engine rev up and down like a normal auto gear. It also holds the gear longer. Good for either traffic jam or long distance constant speed.

[D] is not "Drive". D is Devil mode. Hehe. This the Standard CVT mode.

Thats where you drive it like you stole it. It engages you into a race feeling. Only downside is that you will hear the engine in a monotonous orchestra revving sound. And it let go more of the engine rev more than S mode. Again this is personal preference. Cause my dad has 2 Honda and both are CVT. the newer Earth Dreams CVT does give a natural gear shifting. Not fake shifting like our Exoras.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Aug 4 2018, 04:14 PM

Recently my neighbour's friend drove up his brand new Exora SP to his house and i noticed the engine radiator sounds alot sweeter sounding (like a Merc fan) than my Exora . You know lah Exora fan can roar very loudly.

Anyone with a new Exora generation can noticed the fan pitch sound is different. Maybe i should drop by into Proton showroom to see what fan are they using.

And oh BTW..anyone knows how to change the alarm beeper when you lock unlock the car. You know that "Beeeeeeeep Beeeeep" sound ? Cant seem to find the speaker.

Gosh, I just realised. They now have USB port in place of the cigarette port.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Oct 24 2018, 09:44 PM

Yes its now part of the schedule to change every 40K, but lets be honest.
The real reason why it blows its not because of the hose quality.
its because of the Oil Cooler Assembly (OCA) gets clogged up - due to late oil change or poor oil quality (not using minimum Semi Synthetic).
People think it's the OCH totally at fault.

Think of the OCA as your heart filled with cholesterol. Then it builds up excessive pressure in the OCH , your artery vane. Then BOOM.

If you read the Service Bulletin at the SC carefully, they mentioned that its due to OCA fault design and now the newer Exora / Preve has been updated with the newer OCA design. Its all in the PROTON) CFE & CVT technical discussion FB group.

Yes there are those with semi steel but unfortunately its kind of limited edition and not all SC have it. Even Proton part centre dont have it anymore for now.

Anyhow I've just changed mine before I head back for CNY .

Costed me as follows:

RM 90 (excl SST) - Labour
RM 30 for 2 rubber hose.

So total cost was RM 126 (all in , inclusive SST)
I changed it when the car was around 5 yrs old but with a low 43K mileage. I was thankful it didn't leak or blow.
I didn't want to change the clips as it was unnecessary.

And I'm using fully synthetic all along, except once used Semi synthetic due to budget reasons.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Feb 17 2019, 02:30 PM

Yes Viper.

Thats why, this is what I observed "PROTON) CFE & CVT technical discussion". Those which blew up their OCH my only guess is:

i) Using cheap / budget / no brand oils. And when i say No brand means those oil "never heard before" unlike Petronas / Mobil etc.
ii) Over the oil change interval frequently. Miss by few hundred KM is fine, but not by a big variance.
iii) Not using at least Semi syn oil. Probably using Mineral oil.
iv) Using non-ori Proton OCH pipe - Yes there are 3rd party brands which cost even more. Or some owner experiment themselves using hydraulic oil pipe - They claim hydraulic oil can so-call withstand higher oil pressure. I don't recommend either.

Point 1-3 is enough to create sludge in the OCA. And its important when you drive it daily to work and back , because that stresses the oil more than those which travel on highway.

I've seen one case in that FB group, he just changed the OCH and shortly it blew up. Again not because of the Hose quality.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/CFEnCVT/per...16731588417812/

There are some which are fortunate enough to stretch up to 80-100K baru change the OCH. These are owners which regularly change oil on time regardless doing it at SC or Bawah-Pokok workshop.

You're welcome Viper. I know Proton is not a perfect car but its a decent value for money MPV. My parents have Honda and of course I have to admit Honda is a much better car but more expensive.
I've driven this MPV down to Singapore twice and it hasn't let me down .

Regarding about your earlier questions:

1. Rattling on the dash, both sides near the aircond vents
2. Rattling on whole car (like almost every panel & seats are loose) when going through rough roads / speed bumps
3. Exhaust booming sound when seated in rear most seats
4. Car vibrating when standstill, no matter in D or N

For Question 1 & 2 - I havent got any dashboard rattling. Maybe I'm lucky. Mine is the Turbo badge 2014 version.
But I have this absorber bushing noise. Which sounds like a frog each time I go through speed bump. Need to budget to change the bushings.

For Question 3 - Yeah I noticed the exhaust booming sound (i'm not sure how loud is your cousin's exhaust booming sound) when I sit behind the rear most seat. Maybe can be resolved by upgrading the stock rear muffler.
But I have to admit - Engine refinement is not there. Even my mom ask me , why is it louder than her Honda. I can only answer - Its a Proton

For question 4 - Doesn't happen to me . Again by luck. But one day my turn may come..

My mileage? As of today - Only 43K..also low mileage

For your another question -
No complaints on the pickup but it did not want to down shift up steeper climbs unless floored to the max

If your gear was in D, and you're climbing very steep (as steep as Genting gradient) then yes, it wont down shift too much. This is because it wants to keep the revs lower and it does detect uphill or downhill. Yes you will feel under power but think of it like it's trying to "save fuel" while going uphill LOL.

If you want really brutal uphill acceleration, change to L and drive as normal. It will help climb much better without you flooring.
And oh BTW, the engine braking part , yes, it will automatically downshift when you do not press the accelerator for few seconds on a downhill. If you don't want the engine braking, you can cancel it by gently pressing the accelerator.

Fuel consumption of mine? Recent trip to Penang. On full highway alone it does 7.0L per 100km (or lower, depending on your itchy foot) . But once hit the city area it can drastically change.
At the end mine completed 480KM for 45Litres of Petrol (RM 87 @ RM 1.93/L) = about 9.3 L per 100Km . Running on new Petronas fuel.
BTW, still have balance of petrol before the Yellow light turns on.

I once had this crazy idea (though just a dream) of putting twin mufflers like how Honda does it with their 1.5 Turbo CRV / Civic. But again its just an idea, just to make it quieter. Soundproofing is also a good idea.

Regarding about my FC I show earlier, my EB was 3/4 loaded with 5 adults, 2 children and luggages from Subang to PG.
But on the way back from Penang back to Subang the FC was showing 9.8L/100KM due to bad jam along the highway.
So it doesnt really effect much the FC even though I'm driving alone. Bear in mind, the MPV alone weighs a massive 1500Kilos (Kerb weight) before adding humans and luggages. Your Gen2 weighs 300-400KG lighter .

Okey so whhat is the worst FC you may ask?
As high as 13L per 100km or 7.7KM/L for really short drives. But on average it can do around 10-11L per 100KM (9-10KM/L) for longer drives (not necessary outstation drive) . All that FC is because of the weight and also turbo boost addiction. Considering 9-10Km/L is not too bad for a MPV.

If you want better FC and willing to sacrifice horsepower, then you can consider the CPS version. Apparently FC is better around town possibly due to NA (and furthermore CPS engine compression is high). FC probably slightly better or similar to your GEN2.

Dang...nice headlamp with built in DRL. Smart looking.
Where you get those?

I recently changed my OCH, and Proton already stopped recall since last year. Irregardless of first time never changed.

It costed me RM 30 for the 2 hoses and RM 90 labour charge. I refused to change the clip but the SC gave me the 2 clips complementary. So saved Rm 25 for the clips.
What to do , had to fork out own money even though first time replacement.

IMO ISOFIX is a feature whereby if have then great. If don't have it's still okay. Still can secure the baby seat with safety belt .
And besides once your child reaches somewhere 2 yrs old he / she will naturally refuse to sit on a baby seat.
Been there done that with my 2 children.

It's just that some people want to have it because they are phobia of not having it. Just like some prefer 100 air bags (sarcasm. I know there ain't such thing as that much airbags) rather than 2 airbags . Drive as safe as possible you won't need to deploy the air bags. (I know some will disagree with me on having lesser airbags)

So to answer eastwest whether it's a good buy or not. That's for you to determine yourself. Cause if it's me - I say it doesn't matter with the lack of ISOFIX. That's IMO.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Mar 11 2019, 09:43 PM

Im one of those lucky ones didnt encouter the "Punch-ing" CVT problem. And neither do i blew my OCH even though for 5 yrs i did not initially change .

Let me give you this assurance although i have previously written about OCH and why did it blew up.

If u buy a brand new exora today - chances the OCA has already been replaced with the new version.
If you also follow the oil change interval religiously and use full synthetic - chances of you blowing up the OCH hose is close to none.

About the cvt - i also have read several horror stories on proton Cfe fb page . But still i would say this - change the CVT oil and filter on time and dont treat the car like a race track car.
Because these are my assumption - those who break their cvt either drive it like they stole it all the time. And doesnt change the oil on time. Turbo is addictive but i think the CVT cant take constant abuse. Once in a while hard driving is fine.

And surprisingly most of the horror stories originate from Preve. Seldom from Exora. Although same engine and tranny.

And oh Btw, if you are asking about the Aruz, its a smaller 7 seater. For occasional carrying many people i dont recommend either. Not because i am biased. But you have to try it yourself the space. The seatibg space is no match to Exora.
The good point about Aruz is that it has a big and handsome SUV look. And it has a less thirsty (and more underpower) 1.5L engine.

If you can live with a smaller interior and a seriously "not meant to go fast" 1.5L engine then Aruz is not bad actually. Ive test driven the car and trust me - the poor engine prefers to take things easy. It feels as though its already tired of carrying its weight.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Mar 11 2019, 11:20 PM

[U]

You can alway buy the mounting yourself from Proton Parts center and ask a outside workshop to replace.
Because going to SC and you pay more for their labour charges

Share with you link to a member which experienced mountibg problems

https://www.facebook.com/groups/CFEnCVT/per...679283/?app=fbl

for this i gather some say that your engine will lose pickup or gearbox may damage if it continously jerks.

However there is no correct answer. as a mounting job is to remove any vibration or jerkibg from the gearbox..so there is no catastrophic danger. only annoying vibrations.

more importantly is to ensure the OCH hose and CVT fluid is changed on time

Is it gearbox or clutch damper? I heard there is a "silent" recall for clutch damper.

Need to check if your radiator is clogged.
Could be malfunction on the water pump.
Most likely radiator clog since you mentioned when you run high speed with turbo since the water cannot dissipate the heat quickly.

And yup, both fans will run irregardless of cold engine or hot.
On some cars, if the engine temperature is too hot, the engine ECU will cut off the air-cond compressor as a safe guard to prevent the engine from further overheating.

Gosh.. Your right foot must be heavy to reach 3K at 110. Usually it will hit between 2.5K at 110. But so far I don't hear any humming noises on my 2014 Exora.

And oh BTW don't forget. Your wira has only like 120nm of torque when new (maybe 100nm after many years) and Exora has like double the amount of torque.
Cvt also make a difference vs Manual gear.

So yes, it pulls way better than your wira

Yeah keep the Wira. 2nd hand value is still there though not much.

About your fuel consumption - Rm 100 for 400km I assume its city driving and its a new car. 12L per 100km is pretty normal for this car.
City driving can be quite high
But highway driving with careful driving at 90 you can get as low as 7L/100km at the dashboard

On your type of driving I assume that once your engine has broken its virginity (around 2000KM I figured), it can get much better mileage because your first maiden trip from Sg Petani to Kuala Sepetang is considered long distance.

Well let me share with you my Fuel consumption as for your reference. Lower reading means better.

Long distance Highway + Some City driving can get around 8.9L /100km . Based on dashboard reading.

Reference : Subang -> Ipoh (Highway), run around abit in Ipoh town, then continue journey from Ipoh to Penang (Highway) .
Then drive around Penang island. Full tank. 480KM (still got some balance, so stretching to 500KM is possible)

Full highway - The best i got was 6.4L/100KM , but after that never gotten that figure. Otherwise can get around 7-8L/100Km on a steady 100KM/h drive.

Recent blast up from Subang to Genting and back - around 9.8L/100KM. Using Ron 97 Shell (just to try out RON 97, hehe)

Worst fuel consumption ever - Just driving around Subang town - RM 20 for 80-90KM , and its gone.
(Thats why I never drive it daily)

Thanks bro.

Actually if you are aiming for fuel efficiency no point trying RON 97..hehe.
All the results i share above is mostly using RON 95. Im using RON 95 all the time.
Engine oil - I'm using Bosch X7 Premium Fully Synthetic, 5W40 grade.

Its only that special occasion when i want to go up Genting, I just only fill up RM 45 (and only get around 17.3L when the RON 97 costs RM 2.60/L, only 3-4 bar of petrol, ouch) of Shell RON 97 before entering Karak toll booth . You know, Itchy fingers, itchy right foot want to blast up genting.
The feeling of using RON 97 and trying to smoke others uphill..you get my meaning

But I feel that there is just a marginal performance improvement (using butt dyno) using RON 97 going up Genting. I might be wrong. So its okay to continue using RON 95 even going up genting.

So its okay, you can live without the RON 97. Dont need to waste extra money, hehe. In fact I find that Shell RON 95 gives slightly better mileage than petronas during town driving. However I notice that in Penang that there is not much Shell stations.

yes, mine also does that. The rev limiter is set to 3K in P or N. And also if you tried anything funny by revving into 3K and switching into D, it wont engage into gear.
Its a ECU protection feature, so that not to damage the delicate CVT gearbox by sudden thrust.

(In other words, don't expect Launch control mode unlike some sports car )

And BTW, alexei and daddyz, regarding about the earlier post about the radiator fan thingie,

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=92270709

I made a discovery; When the radiator reaches temperature trigger threshold , both radiator fan and aircond fan will run, even when the a/c is turned off . But only when engine is running.
If engine turned off and fan starts running, only the radiator fan kicks in. Clever design.