yes the door bonnet and boot have their own lights and if lets say you are moving and either door is open, it will sound an alarm.

But now for your case, does this icon goes off after you started the engine? It should go off after engine started with all doors closed.

Hi Exora friends.
Does anyone know where the fuse for the clock is located?
Clock is running but I suspect there is a parasitic battery drain.
(Yeah I know these things run 24hrs). Trying to locate the fuse for my diagnosis.

Edit: I found it. Under the dash, a brown color fuse puller. Pull that out and all radio and clock will not power. Correct fuse. not to mention the FC meter will reset and Rpm meter will not reset.

I'm.only pulling out the fuse to diagnose where is parastic drain.
Cause when I fully charge it with my (new) battery charger, the battery volts will drop to 12.5 within 1-2 days.
Though it can start the engine 1 week later.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Jul 19 2020, 10:28 AM

Does that mean for my case - Going over a speed bump it will have a "frog" sound. But on smooth surface regardless pothole or not, it doesn't make the noise.

So it means it could be from the bushing? I tried pressing mine from the top , driver side, seems to emit that frog sound

Right now I'm trying out Mizu 0w20 full synthetic. Consider myself as a guinea pig experimenting uncharted territory for 0w20.

With recent drive up to Genting and back and the usual traffic jam, the water temperature gauge and radiator fan shows normal operation - even the radiator fan barely runs (when engine switched off) after the change to this oil .

So do I recommend thus budget oil? Yes.
Do I recommend using 0w20 - Only if you are a light footed driver with sometimes some aggressive driving, and aiming for fuel economy - though its a small improvement over 5w-30.

If still not confident can always opt for Mizu's 5w30.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Oct 7 2020, 12:30 PM

Yeah I know, its a fuel hogger, when city driving or idling
I'm getting between 12.x to 13L/100KM and this reading is mostly city driving with small percentage of highway driving.
When I idle, i make sure I idle for just a while, then only I switch off. Yeah I know it's a hot day. Wish our Exora have electric A/C compressors like Hybrids
(BTW, the only Hybrid MPV I know, is Serena Hybrid, even that also, depends on the engine to run the AC)

I managed 10L/100Km if really mix 50/50 city Highway.
And thats the recent reading, using 0w20.
Thats why i started experimenting 0w20.

And thats why on normal days, my Axia (manual) does the city runaround.
FC, of course, is alot better. Average around 16-17KM/L or around 6L/100KM.

Some of the Exora owners just use motor to ride to work or daily runabout.

If mine is Standard spec.
Meaning mine without buttons on steering controls , and no BT function on the Radio.
I think n8210 has the same unit as I say.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Oct 10 2020, 01:15 PM

Yeah i understand your concern.
Youre not the only one concern about 0w20; what Jason of Engineering Explained says is correct. But you need to dive deeper.
He didn't say that thinner oils will damage the engine. He says use the correct viscosity oil adviced by car manufacturers.

Coming back to Proton- Honestly they did not recommend any specific viscosity whether advice by manual or by those SC (and I never take SA words seriously).

Honda on the other hand recommends 0w20 for their turbo engines to achieve maximum fuel economy.
Though my honest opinion - If you are gonna use 0w20, don't frequently race/ drive like you stole it. Turbos do get hotter when driven hard. And that's the job of the oil to protect and cool it down.

So far I have driven up Genting several times on 0w20- though I don't thrash or drive hard uphill, so far no signs of increased water temperature.

Sorry for the late,reply.
I bought my Mizu 0w20 oil via Lazada. So im not sure which part of small town you living in. Unless you are staying in Sabah Sarawak then the oil cant be shipped over there.

But what i do undersand is that some kedai spare parts, talk without facts.
Like previously when i want to buy 10w30 from petrol station, some will say - For kancil only. I had to LOL.

This is my 3rd month on 0w20. No funny grinding noises, no oil burning.
Driving style mostly keep within 60-70 , once in a while spirited driving.
In fact the other day i saw an interesting product. Radiator cap with temp gauge. Though i wish for oil temp gauge.

So far this is my observation:
With the combination of BHP brand of petrol, and 0w20 , it feels more economical.
Though where i live, even in major city area, BHP petrol station is rare. Compare to Petronas and Shell.

Are you using 3rd party towing service?
Cause mine - well, I've used towing services from my insurance co, and it was free, even twice towed .
(One from breakdown site back to my house, and 2nd time from house to SC)

I was fortunate my OCH didn't burst. So mine I got it replaced before any incident happened. And mine wasn't changed since brand new, thats about 4 years of usage. Guess I was lucky.
Now I changed to full rubber, since Proton Parts Centre dont have (or dont allocate) semi steel type to end users.

OCH burst is usually because OCA (Oil Cooler Assy) become clogged up. Building up pressure on the hoses.
Therefore the only way is to keep the engine oil clean. Im not sure if anyone has tried using engine flush, to keep the pipes and engine components clean.

I've seen some in CFE FB owners group goto the extend of modifying and removing the oil cooler assy together with the hose. Honestly I dont recommend such things, though it may prevent such disaster altogether but its putting more heat stress onto the engine.
Lotus + Proton engineers put it there to cope with our hot climate .

Or if one is willing to go the extra mile, put an external oil cooler.

Good day Mate...
I think you're having a gear level bush problem. Should be quite relatively easy fix with the local mechanic.

My advice - Don't try send to SC.
SC will not be any better or more professional than those 3rd party Proton specialist.

If you are in Kiang Valley area, find for Tam Turbo Motorsport.
He is very famous for rectifying turbo or ECU problems. Has a branch in either Kajang or Sg buloh.

*Edit: Sorry I just realise you are in Penang area.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Dec 20 2020, 10:15 AM

Hope I am not too late!
I just found this recommendation by Proton CFE group owners , for Penang area.

MZ Turbo Performance Garage

Address
168, MK 19 Mengkuang Sekolah, 14000 Bukit Mertajam, Pulau Pinang

Just make sure the CVT oil have been changed.
Hopefully the previous owner did not abuse it. Frequent aggressive driving like as though it's a Nissan GTR may shorten the lifespan.

That's why I only once in a while accelerate hard.
But who isn't tempted to the turbo boost.

Sorry ah i necro your post. hehe.
I baru bought a Obd2 reader, share between my Axia and Exora.
Then i installed Torque Pro. And added Boost gauge as one of them.

My question is: Is the max boost really 1.0 bar. or is it just temporary , but intentional overboost. I know the boost spec supposed to be only 0.6-0.8 bar.
Few times i noticed the Boost Gauge recorded "Highest Value" of 1.0 bar. Though not always.

Car runs fine though, No ECU fault codes.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Apr 25 2021, 08:59 PM

Hey bro Alexei.

How is your NS60L going on after a year?

My INCOE NS70L still going fine, I wouldnt wanna proclaim the word "going strong". But still starts up.
Being maintaining it closely with the charger and driving it during this FMCO time.
I have been closely monitoring the "start up" voltage via Torque Pro and so far it is doing around 10.x volts , though sometimes goes near to 9v.

Mine is already 2 years, 10 months and 24 days (up to today), so that makes another 1.5 months and it will celebrate 3 years.

Have thoughts whether I should retire it at the 3rd year mark. I spoke to Roman Catholic and he suggest to get it tested on the 3rd year mark.
I did a survey post on Proton CFE technical group and mostly claim after 2 years plus, it will konk out, being a few managed to survive the 3 years mark.

Apart from that, I have just recently cleaned up the MAF sensor. More of that posting can be found here:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/5153960

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Jun 10 2021, 01:25 PM

Update:
Last Saturday as I was planning a trip to Morib, when all a sudden my gear decided to stuck in D gear. So I decided to drive to my friend place and park there.
(And borrow his car)

Next day I repaired the issue myself. Found the gear Bush has worn off. Took me 15-20mins to open up, and put a zip tie.

Apparebtly it's a common issue with Exora and even P2 Alza.
So yes, the zip tie is a necessity.

If its my Exora, my rear window wiper will wipe like - Move half, stop 1 second, then move again half , stop, move again - in Intermittent mode.

In normal mode (when the wiper is in 1st speed, after the intermittent mode) , then its ok.

Sorry bro for me, I dont have the video.
But my front wiper is fine otherwise.

How is your battery condition after using this for 2 years?
I'm using Foxsur , 5AMP rating.
My current Incoe battery, currently aged 3 years 3.5 months , start to weaken slightly.

Used to be able to charge until the charger register a 'FULL" status, now I have to manually monitor and stop charging after a few hours.
Otherwise it will just charge around 4AMPs out of 5 amps. Sometimes goes to 3amps.
And the battery will heat up, but I noticed its one of the cell nearest to the positive side (by putting my hand to feel it).

Hi Exora members,
Wanted to ask whether can I replace spark plug meant for Persona Vvt on my Exora since the engine block is the same just the difference is ours is turbocharged.

https://s.lazada.com.my/s.3doBQ
https://shopee.com.my/product/169430212/279...62-1636787817.9

Reason being is because - Wanna cut cost. I rarely drive the car.
7 years, 57K genuine mileage. Never changed the plugs from day 1. Hehe.

Bumping your old thread just to add mine to your stats.

My INCOE NS70l battery just died yesterday.
3.4 years. From 18/7/2018 till 12/11/2021

Tried charging back, after charging, voltage is showing around 12.7v but can't crank.
I also felt maybe cell #2 nearest to the positive side isn't that too healthy.

Noe contemplating whether should I go for NS60LS since its a low mileage car.
Farewell Incoe. Thank you for your long service.