Actually no. It is only a rough estimation based on your driving habits. I only use it to know when I need to refuel, not as a measurement of total fuel usage and how much need to be refueled.
(This is in respond to your second reply)

If you want to measure how much petrol you have consumed , you should not based on the "Distance to go meter". Instead use Average Fuel Consumption reading.

for me I use an app call Fuel Calculator from Google Play Store.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?...m.jee.calc.fuel

or a web version: https://www.calculator.net/fuel-cost-calculator.html

Then I key in the KM and the "L/100KM" it will show me fuel usage and RM

Example I travel from PJ to Penang (real life example) , I clock 384.9KM and gotten 8.6L/100KM.
That means I have consumed 33.1L or RM 67.86 in total cost.



This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Apr 29 2022, 11:24 AM

Hi bro,
Just update. I just changed my timing Belt + Fead Belt today , outside workshop.
Mileage is around 61K for 8 yrs (never changed from new) . Timing belt is in excellent condition (I had a look myself) although mech told me there is a very fine hairline crack (very fine indeed, like nothing is there)
Oh well, change anyway for a peace of mind.

Total damage (for year 2022).
- Timing belt set - Gates brand - Rm 180 (bought at PJ SS2)
- Changed FEAD belt, Gates Brand - RM 90 (from workshop, Mechanic advice to change as there is some visible cracks) . This one slightly on the high side.
- Workmanship - RM 180

grand Total = RM 470

Well if I were to compare SC:
Timing Belt Kit - RM 328.52
Service Labour - RM 168.00
FEAD Belt - RM 81.33
Service tax 6%- RM 10.08 (Im assuming , only for timing belt only)
Estimated total: RM 597.93

I Only saved on the Timing belt kit. Dont know why Proton timing belt is extra costly, even at spare part shop also quoted RM 300. Lazada / Shopee around RM 200 over.

I kept thinking why would a timing belt would suddenly fail and this is the answer.

https://www.acorn-ind.co.uk/insight/top-6-c...g-belt-failure/

Let me show u a photo of my timing belt. Its perfect.


Apparently camshaft runs 1/2 the speed of normal engine rpm
.
And this is a photo of my Fead serpentine belt.



Both are critical though the timing belt is the one being the most disastrous if it breaks. Why can't car manufacturers design a non-interference engine if they are gonna use a rubber timing belt.
Unless they wanna follow like Ford - Oil Bath timing belt.

https://www.underhoodservice.com/belt-in-oil-timing-drives/

The new logo looks like british car company , Vauxhall.
Some media even compare with the new Alza, I mean..why ...
Different segment (which I hate to say) and should be comparable with Innova.

I'm driving the Exora before the MC2 Facelift,
The reason people shunt away from the Exora is because of old design , and the sensitive CVT, though touchwood my CVT has been fine so far.

However it serve its purpose. A family , long distance cruiser MPV.

Sometimes I wonder - What about Civic / CRV Turbo. Do they have OC like Exora?
And this is what I found: No they dont have OC like Proton does. Even with a higher output.

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/sirimo...il-temps.21224/

Me . Using it on my Axia 0w20 and Exora 5w30.
Quite lasting.

Now trying a can (pour about 170ML) of Liqui Moly MOS2 Anti Friction (not the engine oil, the treatment) on my EB together with the Mizu.
Next round gonna try a German brand called Rektol on my Axia. Slightly cheaper than Mannol. But do understand both these oil dont have API certification somehow, versus Mizu at least have API certification.

The Mizu I've used 2-3 oil changes on my Axia and my Exora. So far is quite good. No catastrophic even happened.
Genuinely certified Api ratings and not just slap an Api SN rating.

Furthermore I pour a can of Liqui Moly Mos2 (pour about 3/4 actually) but don't see any difference in FC. Maybe it will protect the engine better.

For the Bold oil yes it's also genuinely Certified Api but I haven't tried yet.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: May 5 2023, 11:32 AM

Hi Alex,
Previously I have tried 0W20 and the answer is:

1) No oil consumption - which was my initial concern also.
2) FC may had improve a tiny bit, which is barely noticeable . The fuel brands will affect it noticebly.
3) Water temperature according to OBD remains normal

Do I still recommend 0w20? Yes still , if he drives the car for short distance. It may improve abit of FC like I say.
Although I have tested for various normal conditions and it doesnt exhibit oil consumption.
But anyhow I have reverted back to 5w30.

Now why would you go 50 weight? Thats very thick for even modern engine.
I can understand its for the turbo, but even Proton themselves recommend 5w30.
Putting too high viscosity and its even worse, cause the oil will flow slower than usual.
50 weight is best for very high temperature application and continous high rev.
Traffic jam is not considered high temperature.

This article will explain clearly about high viscosity oil on race engines:
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/...oil-track-and-/

For this I'm following the Proton owners manual which only gives a oil temperature chart. No clear recommendation written by Proton.
Luckily i still have the previous photo attachment in LYN. Click on the link (photo is very high resolution )

https://forum.lowyat.net/uploads//attach-16...-1547540204.jpg

As you can see, based on Proton's manual it says the 5w-20 is only up to minus 10C .
So I took my own risk and poured in the 0w20. Well, it survived throughout the entire oil interval.
Now I do not know why 5w30 oil chart is showing up to +10C only. If really its rated up to 10C or negative 10C with 0w20 , with our hot weather, the engine would had long seized up. There is no difference between the 5w30 and 10w30 except for the "cold" temperature viscosity.
Right now I'm using the Mizu 5w30. So far it has been running happily.

I totally agree with you that modern turbo engines, even Honda themselves, uses 0w20 in their turbos. My only guess is that Lotus did not test it with 0w20.

There is 0w16 sold by Petronas, its rare, however once you see the price at RM 200+, you will think its not worth paying extra for thinner oil. I would think 0w16 is still alright for non-turbo cars, presuming the engine temperature is cool enough.

Here is an example of Liqui Moly 0w16 I found:
https://shopee.com.my/LIQUI-MOLY-0W16-SPECI...dc-c837d1f4f038

Liqui Moly MOS2 Oil additive
Earlier on you asked me why should I pour engine oil additives, this part I also agree with you .
I was merely testing this Liqui Moly MOS2 (plus now I'm using 5w30 instead of 0w20), which Liqui Moly claims can reduce friction to reduce FC and heat.
Its unfortunate I barely see any FC gains, just like the 0w20. However my feeling is that, with the MOS2 liquid, it adds addtional metal friction protection , which is vital for turbo engines under extra stress and heat.

Does it reduces heat? On my observation, it triggers less of the radiator fan on engine shutdown. Temperature still like to hover between average 87-88C, one time reached 90C due to hot weather and also standstill traffic (the car in front of mine, does contribute extra heat)

Just curious,
What was mileage or age, or is it a random thing, the cvt cooler leaks?
Didnt occur to me this thing can happen, or maybe I'm lucky it didnt happened on me.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: May 26 2023, 09:46 AM