Can survey here:
https://s.lazada.com.my/s.hBanX

Good luck.

hi guys, recently my almera has been giving some weird sound (+ some on-going niggling common issue), so im deciding to just bring it to a workshop and get it all sorted out.

1. engine mounting - this has been shaking for awhile so i thought of fixing this for a peaceful driving.

2. rear absorber - the mechanics seen some oil leak on this and have advised me to get it change a few month back.

3. wheel bearing? - this is new as recently i notice there's a louder sound like dragging when i drive about 50 and above (get louder as it goes)

How much should i be estimating to repair all these above and what kind of parts should i be looking yeah?

It's a 2014 car so warranty all finished dy.

Even though if it's not ORI... As long as all 4 coils are the same brand it should be fine. Yeah me last time, spent too much on Ori coils, i had to save money and DIY. Because i have a stabilizer bar, and i had no tools to remove it, i had to remove the front cross bar, the metal that holds the radiator.
All you need is just a 10mm socket. And good leverage to loosen it. Ah yes make sure you dont mess up the bolts, got one is shorter than the rest. Oh i almost forgot, a long nose plyer for the hose clamps.

Here's a tip. Have some tissue or paper. U can use it to hold your bolts (sandwich the paper between the bolt and socket) so it doesn't fall off when assembling back the manifold. I already learn how to remove it the last time i saw Wan NCS changed my spark plugs . i always look at my car when they do anything to it.

Good luck.

This post has been edited by Jessieccy: Nov 10 2023, 03:30 PM

This model ah... Is your budget that tight?
Overall it's wear and tear. I can only say by eye... Make sure can start easily, the AC is cold and dont smell funny. Check the spare tire, see if the storage area got any rust or signs of flooding.

Check the coolant and see what color it is. If it's very hard to see through means the ex owner dont take good care.

Check the engine, look for oil stains. Back of the engine, bottom pan, color of the fan belt area. The dip stick, after wipe clean with tissue, if very yellow, the ex owner use lower grade oils. The AC compressor clutch, see what color it is. If it's a black shiny wheel, someone just replace something. If it's reddish matt color, it's gonna die soon.

Good luck. Sadly im not selling my car now... Maybe next year April...my car is a good buy 🤣

Well you are right on all 3 items.
1. Just go for OEM. Denco or even TanChong
2. Any brand u like. I can only say, do not buy KYB excel G. Go with ori Nissan, it's not that expensive honestly. Or KYB RS Ultra(im using this now), Proride Heavy duty. The other brands i never tried so I can't comment.
Me feeling back pain, if i ever need to change absorber i go back with soft Original.
3. Get it confirmed. Just change it. I think NTN is the default brand.

If all one go... I think need rm1k to 1.2k

This is cheaper than I thought it’ll be, was expecting to hit 2k for it 😂. I’ll get it check over this long weekend as Almera is still a good drive for me.

Thanks!

Yes it will hit 2k. If you pick ori Engine mount All 3 pcs (rm900) OEM probably less than rm500
If you only change the rear absorber. It's cheap. The front is 2x the price of the rear.
Yeah go around, the bearing sometimes shop with own hydraulic machine charge like rm50-70 per press. Not inclusive of parts and labor. Those workshop that outsource will charge double of that. So really ask around

Everyone in the forum and worshop asked not to buy TCM or Aplus products...lasts only for a few months

For engine mount which brand between

Denco
Schmaco
ZW
Ashimori (ask shop say so so only)
Original (shop 2 year+ also can kaput)

Any advice and spare shop seller in Penang bayan Lepas with good price?

1. Planning to get Denco will do. Car already coming to 10 years.

2) I get Kaifa (Taiwan) front and rear absorber. Acceptable after 1 months plus use. Kaifa made absorber major Japanese brand.
If you added those rubber components and labour... Around 750+ l
Depends whether you change what.

3) Bearing I used NTN original as per this forum recommend.

Usually if you get a good brand, absorbers can last for 5-7 years

Hi guys, may I knw is the marked area as shown in the pic below really don't have any bolt or screw? The area is actually below the battery there

Oh ok.. thought gt missing screw or bolt.. thanks ya!

Hello guys! Let me revive this thread. Hahaha. I will make it a LONG post or maybe break it into 2 parts.

Part1: Update on my KYB RS Ultra suspension + stock original springs. Keep in mind your car will be back like original height, 1 palm height at your fender gap.
Been a year plus now. 5th Nov 2022, 165k KM. Now my car is about 196k KM. I can say its softer now, not to the point that it doesn't do its job. So conclusion, most absorbers after one year of use, they usually settle down and soften to "comfort" mode. I noticed it sometime last year before the New year end celebrations, cause i travel more during that time.

Will i buy it again? heck no, its an expensive set. Maybe if you found a nice shop that is skilled in "service absorber". Im going to use it till it leaks or require replacement. To those who want to buy it. Just get the front set is sufficient, the rear only if you always ferry ppl around. It is a good suspension for Almera, the best one yet. (KYB execl-G please dont waste your money!! Worst one i ever tried. Better off getting APM standard comfort shocks.)

Part2: My master Pump FAILED!!
29th January 2024, 194k KM
So one fine day, driving early to work. all was well. Drop off my family member to the LRT stn. Oh... why is my "handbrake warning light" ON? hmm nevermind, i will check later. Off i go, my brakes still work, ok then lets head to work, i will check at my office later. Lo behold, i enter NKVE, thinking to myself, better stop at the R&R more space and safer to stop and check. DIE!!! The moment i enter the road shoulder into the R&R

My brakes are gone, empty, till the floor, swoosh nothing. Thank god i didnt drive fast or brake last min. So had to merge back into main road... no cars, thank god... mind blank for 10 secs... ok lets stop at the emergency lane... tried pulling the hand brakes, ah it works! i drop the gear manually. Then finally i stop by pressing the brakes really hard. It only bite a bit like 10kmh speed. After thinking for like 2 min on the road side... its too early for tow truck, it will take forever for someone to help. So i test out my hand brake and okay "Lets head to my favorite trusted workshop!" So i drive like 50- 60kmh with the light hazard on and head out of NKVE to NCS Garage. Got there safely, 8.30am already there, 1st one to que.

Findings, while there... Brake fluids all gone. That is why the handbrake light warning is ON. Unfortunate for me it didnt slowly happen. All the fluids went swimming in the brake booster/servo, the shaft of the master pump surprisingly have no signs of damage/abrasion. Its smooth, so how on earth it leaks, beats me. The pomen said need to change brake booster/servo. So the shop offered me 2 option. New Original the set of Master cylinder and brake booster/servo thats about RM750 (labor not included) or a halfcut RM450 including labor. So guess what i chose

Yup, take the half cut option because its cheap and it is ready stock. The half cut was Malaysia local spec, without an additional sensor. Reduce risk of vacuum leaks. They help me flush the brake oil system as well. All done, it felt weird at first, since the brakes feels softer than before. Now i'm used to it. Safety at last! Im guessing my car shouldnt have anything major to change anymore! (Well till maybe another 5 years later LOL)

Wait let me add something...
PART3!!
Haha while waiting to change the brake booster. i thought why not lets change the Engine oil and ATF oil. Then saw him remove the manifold. "Aiya, u removed my intake manifold?" erm, then why not just change spark plugs as well! Because i had the itch few months back, and bought a set of DENSO Iridium TT form LazMALL. (model: IXEH20TT, some ppl tag it for Bezza, Aruz and Myvi) I got it at a bargain of RM170 during 11.11 sale 2023, got a free cap too! It was in the boot for many months waiting for it to hit 200k KM. So i only paid for labor.

Results: Oooooh damn its smoother. It does not give you any additional HP, but acceleration is smoother. I'm happy. Also bonus. Now i cold start the car, much easier in the morning, i dont even have to wait till the lights go off on my dash! Last time i kept thinking my fuel pump was going to fail. Now im sure it was the spark plugs.

There is like a mini part4: gosh it never ends! Drive shaft boot split!
Well cause i'm generous and i wanna go home for CNY safely without any headache. Plus 9 years already, get a new one la. I change the drive shaft (passanger side) GSP a good OEM brand. RM430 with labor. (original cost, i ask for fun, he said might need RM1000, so i said tq, no need!!) They should have told me before i change new fluids for the ATF, ah... such a waste of new oil. They top up my ATF oil.

Results: i think it is in my mind, its quieter.

Ok Finally really. END
Enjoy some of my damaged parts. My spark plugs are gone 90k km only. (i changed it at 110k KM last time)



This post has been edited by Jessieccy: Mar 27 2024, 02:57 PM

brake pedal soft is zero vacuum leak

Your case was fluid leak, not lack of power assist. Mechanic should fix the leak, and probably changes the master cylinder as well.
Not sure why he changed the booster instead?

I totally understand how it feels. Once I changed the plugs and coils, my car feels buttery smooth, just like new car
Only thing is they are freaking expensive!

Yes correct. I after go home... Think about it, i could have just keep the brake booster. But oh well. It wasn't too expensive. Save the hassle of cleaning the booster from brake oil i guess.