hello i am very new with gunpla... can i know how ur 'otai'x2 find good price for kits??

this has been discussed for many times already but I'm feeling like making a short essay this afternoon so there you go

there's an easy trick actually. if you look at the barcode on one of the side of the boxes, you'll notice there's a 3-part number there. look at the most right one, then you'll get the price in yen!

as an example for this one;


the numbers show "4200" (circled in red) indicating that the suggested retail price is 4200yen. have a quick check on Yen vs. RM exchange rate, and you'll get about RM120 (based on current rate). now you have the baseline price, and local shops tend to mark up a bit to cover their own shipment & operation cost, so look for the one that have the smallest difference (in other words, the one closest to the baseline price)

shops in Japan often sell below than the suggested price, so if you happen to have friends over there for sure you'll be getting a better deal!

if you happen to not be able to see for yourself the barcode, you can always check on online retailers like Hobbylink Japan website, and look at their "List Price" to find out the suggested retail price in yen.

tq.. so helpful .. other question any one here have buy from HLJ see their PG model price look quite good compare to our online and local shop... got dream to buy that for my wedding gift..

you might want to take note as well on the shipping cost. only buy one kit a bit rugi lor

bundle a few, or ask friends if got any to "tumpang" shipping

no dont worth
with higher shipping fee and risk to get custom tax

its better to buy local instead

ah. almost forgot about the customs tax

OIC tq for the info

No normal version of MG Unicorn Phenex lol

i would buy it if theres a non miror coated version of the phenex.. probably cheaper and easier to paint

the main unit is there, only need to figure out the twin Armed Armor DE, the v-fin & blue inner frame, I guess

i'm actually very surprised that bandai didn't release a puke gold version of the mold.. i would think they would do that then release a gold coating version just because

What does this mean.. is there a non coated phenex? or hv to custom use banshee/unicorn?

cannot brain.

brain this..

get a MG unicorn, mod the vfin, buy extra oversized shield. paint a pearl coating with blue over the destroyer mode pink clear parts.

then paint all of the white white parts to bling bling gold. and BOOM!!
here comes your phenex

This post has been edited by gaiachronicler: Nov 18 2014, 07:20 PM

i prefer non mirror coated on the kit.. its expensive, its fingerprint magnet, nub shows and just reflect almost everything n hides the details..
so puke gold works best for me for painting purposes..

Hey guys,

I've decided to try to paint by hand brush. Are enamels good for hand brush?

And are enamel paint the same as aqueous paint?

when is the PG unicorn preview will be out?

in 3 days, at the Japan Gundam Expo

greattt... !

aqueos paint are acrylic I think. Enamel are usually better for handbrushing since they dry slowly so they get to level and hide the brush mark. Acrylic is also good as long as you are getting the one that are designed for handpainting. Airbrush type acrylic, like tamiya, dries pretty fast.