Meter Temp issue aside, having s new problem.

I noticed that my AC compressor cycle on and off at every 1 minute interval. On for 40sec, off for 1min and on again. Condition stays same in cold and hot days, and the cold setting is set to near hottest. The air con is still cold, just wanna check whether is it normal.

I suspect the air con gas is low or something is off? There is no sight glass for iswara LMST so I can't brain out whether refrigerant is low. How much for replacing gas, and probably replacing receiver drier and compressor oil? Any good recommendation on this (oil type/receiver drier original OEM)as I'm new to maintaining this system. Will need to get my belts tighten too.. suspect slipping of belt.

Add on for DIY:
Identify by jacking up the car, leaving suspected wheel suspended. Then, turn the wheel and place hand at absorber. If there's vibration/shaking from absorber while wheels is rotating, bearing is suspect. If not sure, try a few wheels and sure you can tell the difference.

I can confirm the part number as stated is the so called Japan made timing belt with original sticker on the packaging from Mitsu. However do take note on what they change for you as proton REPLACEMENT parts is Rm100+ only, easiest to spot is timing belt made in singapore.

From the printing and charges, seemed like an authorized SC, not original SC.

I guess mitsinbo might be one of the OEM last time, and perhaps produces the closest to manufacturer quality? (Take account of the price and availability as well la, quality on par with price lo, still cheaper then manufacturer ma)

Currently my replaced parts which are rare like central lock actuator and the signal wiper switch is all Mitsinbo. I asked for ori and thats what they gave, stating no more proton ori for all this. Signal wiper switch range from RM50 per piece, dunno what brand, and Rm140-150 per piece for mitsinbo, with another in between, but I just took the mitsinbo, save all the hassle assuming longer live span. I'll say the quality is OK until now, at least from my experience with this 2 items.

Just had all my aux belts changed. 60k km starting to wear off, but changed it since its slipping a bit I guess, and few foreman just don't want to tighten it. I was wondering the new belts are of same number, but come with teeth instead, except the power steering belt as it has to have "tracks".

From one of the belt manufacturer that i'm using, others are Bando.
http://www.globeltint.com/page-23598.html



So from the article I guess my belts are replaced with non-maintenance free and supposingly can run with belt slip? The issue now is cold mornings starts sometimes would have a bit of belt slip for air con belt, which is not there last time before replacement, and is running much looser. Now is quite taut and somemore produces squeel?

Brought it back and foreman claim to be quite tight already, suggest to "break in" before further tightening as further tigthening may hog down the engine.

From my DEC 6 2011 post:
Car at <30k km, ignition timing stock proton advanced at 12-13 BTDC. My vacuum gauge shows 21.3 when air con kicks in and 24.4 when idle.

Currently 100k km:
Due to aging and retarded ignition timing to advanced 10 BTDC now, its around 18-19 inHG.

Guess you have leaky vacuum hose or worse to worse incorrect ignition or valve timing?
http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html

In continuation to the problem above, I guess the problem may only partially lay with the headlamp issue. The problem seems to be more apparent on slow moving traffic (slow fan). Observation from radiator fan seems to be still strong. However also be observed that even if the temperature sometimes go up to 5 bars (only possible with headlamp on), the fan can kick out as well, which denotes temperature already cool enough, but water can't flow into engine block.

Test drive on long distance driving on highway with headlamp on, no rising of temperature. Now suspecting thermostat and radiator.

Btw is there any recommended interval for radiator replacement? And I guess there's no more copper radiator? How about costing? If its too much a hassle just replace both together.

Updated on new situation:
1) Using method 1 can always drop the temp meter reading and make the situation better. Anyway, had replaced the coolant temperature sensor with a new one.

2) Radiator cap supposed working quite flawlessly, has about 10000km on it, 0.88bar as opposed to stock 0.9bar. Maybe a bit lower in boiling point? And since I DIY changed parts related to cooling systems, sometimes air bleeding may not be enough, it will take in the coolant from the coolant spare tank. I guess this can prove the cap is working as it seems. Oh Yå the neck I always full, best indication of return valve is working.

3) All AUX Belts has been renewed at less than 1000km due to belt slippage, they refused to tighten so just changed it lol. Slippage only occurs during morning starts and go away after 5secs or so. Seemed to be out of suspect.

4) Refer 2.

5) Thermostat replaced as well together with coolant temperature switch. Proton Iswara LMST thermostat is 82C as compared to Haynes 88C. Old thermostat seems to be working well based on the "water stains marks".

6) Just got it replaced yesterday for fan temp switch. Spare part shops selling 90C ones, and matches with Haynes manual.

However things seems to get worse since after replaced fan switch. I supposed the original proton fan switch might had cut in at a lower temp. The original switch has none markings, which makes it more difficult to trace what temp it is unless I have a thermometer with me. For the moment it'll be 4bar on normal driving. Yet radiator fan can kick out even sometimes it reaches 5 bar blinking.

EDIT: No signs of boiling as coolant will sure overflow the tank or boilling sounds can be heard from engine bay.

Now i'm suspecting radiator fan is weak. However based on my logic and understanding after a month of DIY and troubleshooting, got some ques in my head...
1) If fan is weak, the cooling of radiator would not be as fast, therefore needs longer time to cool, fan switch will keep the fan on, therefore fan should stay on longer, but still cools the system. If the fan is really really weak, it should be on always as the fan switch would be always activated. Therefore no need to change fan motor.

2) Since the fan switch still turns off the fan. If fan is weak, the cooling is not a fast as intended, resulting slower cooling of the system, and maybe the "a bit slow" of cooling results in big difference of an aging cooling system which makes it to 4-5bar? Therefore, need to change the fan motor.

3) Question is, is the fan motor weak? Using hand "feeling" compared to another LMST, the "wind" feeling is similar and doesn't seem to be weak. But may give a try to change as at a certain 800-900rpm, can hear slight bearing noise when fan kicks in. the bearing noise is not present when air con fan kicks in though.

4) Based on observation, radiator doesn't seem to be clogged yet, as when draining the cooling system, by leaving radiator cap open and drain valve open, the water just gushes out immediately. Therefore the radiator may still have quite some life on it.

5) Will go back to the old fan switch if found out the stock fan switch has much lower cut in temperature.

6) OR after all it is the coolant sensor/electrical/meter problem? I'm quite puzzled already. Resistance check on sensor is OK, but might be due to meter / sensor grounding. Using a multimeter, it seems that grounding for the sensor to firewall and sensor to battery shows no resistance at all. And had a looked at forums suggested adding additional grounding to meter. I think not achievable unless by splicing meter wire, my last resort i'll say.

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Oct 23 2015, 04:09 PM

Press the [BAND] button and hold, then press [4]. Then you can toggle between display and finally set time.

By doing this combination, [BAND] means like computer keyboard "shift", then button [4] "shift" is [DISP].

However this is for the CD version though, the radio cassette version is different. But overall is the same concept as Clarion HU is using similar "shift" aka combo key function across its HU.

Edit: Just saw the issue here... if the "seek" buttons, which is the same button for setting clock does work in normal operation of HU, then shouldn't be button problem. Also after setting clock, press only [BAND] button to save the new clock time (No need [BAND] and [4] combo key or it'll go back to previous time, from my experience of frequent setting time on this HU...)

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Oct 31 2015, 12:34 PM

Pricing wise you're on the lower side I guess. However for the lifespan within 1 year is too short. I had replaced my rear bearing last year and for now is still running good. Original beating lasted 7 years. I would go diagnosing first by ensuring original bearing, then more critical will be mounting but nowadays most of them are smart enough to mount properly for the rear. And especially check the dust Cap is not punctured while they place back the cap. Major bearing failures are improper mounting and in our case would be penetration of impurities for the rear bearings,punctured dust Cap.

If you have seem the old bearing, shall be able to make out if there's lots of dust and moisture penetration. Grease will change colour and dust dirt will be everywhere. That's the sign of cap puncture,or worse is untraced source of impurities making way into the bearing assembly.

Or since you're facing more like, 'own exhaust' smell, then may check any leaks on the engine exhaust on manifold side (gasket and stuffs). Well last time I asked the exhaust shop to check they just rev, hear and smell will directly know Ok or not, less than 2 minutes I guess. If prefer own diagnosis, try to get engine decarbonizer and decarbonizer your engine, since engine decarbon will emit some smoke, if there's leak in engine side and woila some observable exhaust smoke will come out from the engine side, normally all should be channelled to tail pipe only.

But if course do the other steps as mentioned as well for a complete diagnosis.

For the access, there is no need to remove tyre. Just jack up the car and i believe there's much more enough space or gap to just open the cover itself. The tools must be small enough in order to unscrew all the bolts and the screws. I personally had done that as my fender light clip isnt that well too, someone wanted to steal it and broke the clip.

But I guess this post maybe too revealing to the insecurities of the car. Probably gonna edit it after few days hahaha

Edit: i'm on 14" too and i have a rather big and clumsy hand lol...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Jan 21 2016, 09:39 PM

Well my most recent fc on highway with travelling more than 400km reached 15.3km/l, with jam and city travel included around 50km or so.. But I really think as pointed out 110-130km/h is the sweet spot.. Its the first time hit so high, but its first time using fully synthetic tho, not sure helps that much by increasing around 1km/l from semi to fully synthetic..

Btw have a very good question here... The sound of video below is it absorber issues? The sound doesn't show on slow heavy turn like U turn.. It needs some speed as shown in video.

At first I thought Power Steering Reservoir low oil, but if I keep the car stationary and make full turn to full turn, the oil is more than sufficient or "MAX" Level, and no sound emitted. Colour of oil is pretty acceptable still...

And Oh yes, its mostly on right turn, left turn seemed not obvious enough to be heard/captured by cam. I suspect left absorber faulty, hopefully not steering rack/bush issue or so..

Just got diagnosed by Mechanic and somehow weirdly solved the issue, at least for the moment. It seemed to be a 'uncut' cable tie which is holding my bumper and fender together, that the cable tie end is too long extending and makes contact with the tyre during cornering. Thus, causing the rubbing on cable tie transfer the sound to the fender cover and thus such sound.

However, the cable tie has been there like since 50k km ago and this sound has gone progressively louder on turns, which also leads to I suspect my absorber a bit sag liao lor not like as 50k km ago.

Initially mechanic was puzzled too as the sound is just too soft to be fault on bearings or shaft on test drive.

Guess i'll continue to monitor and will provide updates if there's any further issue.

Changed all 4 or 2? It seems very low price compared to Michelin XM2 like 2 years ago already Rm200+ per piece... Always wanted to try hankook but was rare those days...

Well if you're on budget side or stock setup side... Can refer to past post on this same thread, was in your shoes not long ago..

Since the ori bougicourd I had measured before and "rated very close to mitsu standards" although its more than 9 years car. And the ori cable is easily obtainable at spare parts shops, just say wan ori, (Yes it does not write bougicord anymore however packing has the genuine harimau logo) and its a bit more expensive than the bosch super sport cable.

The pictures and measurements of resistance can be obtainable on Post 917 and 918 compiled professionally by AlbertB:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=74242490

So if you managed to get the aerospeed or bosch cables... If possible we can document the readings to compared it "scientifically" too!

Wow very cool upload of the manual!

Just knew about the engine oil level... I always thought it should exceed the middle line!

Ok from my experience if the cooling system already start to weaken, which means the cooling efficiency is getting low, a middle between those 2 lines (min max) will cause indicator to show overheat for LMST in super hot days, which also means the engine runs hotter probably due to less engine oil lubricating and circulating the heat, as opposed to normal MAX level will have more flow/lubrication?

I noticed this when my LMST cooling systems starts to weaken, and coincidently found that engine oil low (No engine oil low warning light tho). I then top up to the 'MAX' Line and temperature goes back to normal and stable for all days after.

So allowances are good but, perhaps in olden era / aged car will be more sensitive to such case when components start to deteriorate and may cause other issues. So personally I think best to keep it at recommended 'Max', accounting tolerance to aged seals or deteriorating components.

Coincidently I had just replaced my fuel pump. It died without notice at all. It happens so abruptly that I luckily still managed to just "roll into" workshop.

For my case, I had to keep stepping and hold the pedal at higher rpm (not very high just like keep it 1.3-1.5k) to prevent engine from stalling. The engine will direct stall once off pedal (going through speed bumps). During the engine dies off, radiator light and battery light comes ON like haven't start the car. The car can be started easily like normal and pedal off drive like normal, just that once let go pedal, the engine dies straight away.

Here is the video of how it died. You can have a look at the vacuum gauge needle on right, where idling, needle is around half mark of the gauge, while 0 vacuum (full throttle or dead engine), needle will be on full right.


What mechanic tried to solve the problem: (mostly as quoted by AlbertB)
1) Start and stall and keep restart
2) Petrol Level
3) Carburettor Solenoid check by direct connection to battery (for petrol cut off when turn off engine)
4) Air filter / Air filter hose blockage
5) Spark Plugs
6) Spark Plugs Cable
7) Distributor advance fully and retard fully to confirm distributor condition or off-timing possibility
8) Fuel Pump

Basically how he diagnose the fuel pump. Close off the fuel pump return hose, other connections as normal, the engine behaves normally and won't stall. If fuel pump return hose is connected as normal, the engine stalls. He repeated this a few time and the problem seems to be it. However at final testing the engine seems to behaved normally (maybe unclogged something or water mixed petrol gone). But for sake of peace of mind got it changed, Japan Kyosan Brand, same as shown by AlbertB. Got it changed rather costly at RM 220 but no choice since the car really died like in front of the workshop.

EDIT: Also the mechanic might have checked the vacuum hoses. As can see the engine vacuum is working from the vacuum gauge (vacuum required for fuel pump to operate). So therefore in my case probably is the fuel pump supplied insufficient or no fuel to the engine and have all the fuel returned to tank during idle. However during press pedal, less fuel will return therefore won't stall and can even accelerate normally.

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Oct 10 2016, 12:25 PM

Just connect the illumination wire to "lampu belakang" fuse will do. So once turn on small light, head unit will dim out. Had been using it on my el cheapo JVC KDX220 so far no issues.

On stock 2007 saga with Clarion CD player, the stock player also supports dimming but proton does not connect it tho.

Have met same case before. Its like suddenly so difficult for cold start, and yes the autochoke is gone long ago but its noticeably much harder to start.

Mechanic checked the plugs and air filter. Finally just changed the spark plugs and done, also might need to check the spark plugs cables but I just changed it last OCI so yeah. And dusted the air filter for free.

If now you need a quick start from this "super hard to start situation" according to mechanic:
1) Before crank, pump pedal twice, this will lead some fuel to the carburettor at least. (Sometimes car left too long not started, the petrol settled there might already dry up, pumping it will bring some fuel in)
2) Just crank, don't press pedal and crank (Pressing pedal and crank is the worst thing to do as spark may not even light up properly and fuel comes banjir everything, making much harder to start/restart or successful start/restart later)
3) Can't get it running? Repeat Step 1-2 again and again confirm you can start it in few times. (If its due to insufficient spark problem)

Check on constant 12V wire whether is it connected. Make sure constant 12v is connected to constant 12v and not connected together with Acc wire. Also check brake light fuse and radio fuse.

The power window relay is hot wired to ON position of the key. So no matter using the power window or not, the relay still latches (and somehow generates intense heat) until the key is switched to ACC or OFF.

And Yeap its pretty hot to touch even if just on the car for 5mins also so.