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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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zedyll
post Mar 17 2015, 07:26 AM

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QUOTE(jedi_master @ Mar 16 2015, 09:44 PM)
Looks good bro. What's up next?  laugh.gif
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Thanks bro! notworthy.gif Now continue completing exhaust system upgrades after got enough budget.

My current rusted muffler got holes....added 1 big hole i accidentally poked during extractor upgrades. now sound like cheap straight flow oredi. haha.... laugh.gif


I have 1 minor issue which is stalling/jerking 1-2 seconds after ignition off. Sometimes it occurs, sometimes not. After reading through previous owners experiences, it's between rich mixture or solenoid kong. rclxub.gif

So...wanna try carb tune first. The back of carb is the air mixture right? Is it turning clockwise or anticlockwise for leaner mixture? icon_question.gif
Due to sometimes occur only, do you think the solenoid kong or not? ohmy.gif

zedyll
post Mar 18 2015, 02:05 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Mar 17 2015, 08:04 AM)
Solenoid kong will judder EVERYTIME u switch off the engine. It's likely to be overflow IMO. Before jumping into "tuning" your carb, it's advisable to give it a carb cleaning process. I solved mine with a bottle of electronic contact cleaner. I know there are specific carb cleaner spray out there, but I had bad experience with the carb cleaner spray which I wouldn't like to share it publicly, hence Alcohol base solution is my next best bet. The usual spray and vacuumize of throttlebody several rounds at high revs. Once done, change sparkplugs. Ever since, never happen to me anymore nod.gif

On the worst case scenario, it could be the solenoid START to kong, where the shaft weren't able to extend fully when engine's off. Which you have a very good chance in reviving it with electronic contact cleaner spray. It could be stains on the shaft that prevent it from thrusting but that's all. Tuning carburetor is the last thing I do, and I only trust CO reading where I need to send my car to a magician who has a machine/dyno machine to do so. doh.gif Others who always claim which sifu very powderful, by listen to the engine sound, see the RPM, feel the engine vibration, smell the exhaust fume ady can tell whether it's rich/lean is a big question mark to me. On a very bad situation where a petrol car start to emit black smoke, that ofcourse even a blind person also can tell it's running rich. But hey, how do you know it's not because of lean AIR that causes the RICH on FUEL? hmm.gif

My carb tuning never been kacauing me other than, overhaul job, change from 4toto back to stock - whilst other surroundings been upgraded such as valve springs, lifts, and also weird setup of exhaust system nod.gif Other than the mentioned, the carb has been always running on the same setting after got out from the O2 reader and or dyno machine nod.gif Do you get what I mean?
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Thanks bro for the advice! thumbup.gif

Story before dieseling occurs.....

First, i went for carb tuning (no machine aka manual sweat.gif ) to reduce my FC....since my exhaust emits black sooty smoke everytime i press the gas pedal and FC is hella high! (RM20 [RM2/L] for 60km)

After carb tuning, used the car about a week with good FC. But 1 problem emerges....pinging sound when accelerate. I went to my mechanics to tune ignition timing with timing light. The pinging almost gone except when climbing hills with with a slight pinging. My mech said slight pinging knock is okay. No dieseling problem yet.

Then, i went DIY changing the o-ring of distributor since there's quite of oil leaks. The distributor position was marked with correction pen. After finished replacing o-ring, i turned the distributor slightly 1-2mm anticlockwise (from marked position) therefore retarding timing some more. No more pinging even at hills.

Then, the dieseling started occuring occasionally. rclxub.gif
zedyll
post Mar 19 2015, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Mar 18 2015, 06:01 AM)
Let's go dyno whistling.gif
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dun wan la... later my carb shoot off flying. my car is not fit yet. laugh.gif

QUOTE(jedi_master @ Mar 18 2015, 08:45 AM)
Ooo.. nice. I also retired from 4 toto last year but mine was silvertop setup with trumpets. It was quite fun I guess especially beyond 5000 rpm but in the end still went back to single throttle body.
How old are your plugs? If its due or nearly due for change, maybe just change them. Might be a quick fix, nothing to lose.
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my plugs are new...just 2k mileage. sweat.gif


QUOTE(Albert B @ Mar 18 2015, 09:17 AM)
Why not, for the time being, advance the timing back to when there was no dieseling, just to see if it goes away? (You will have to tolerate the pinging for a short while during this troubleshooting.

Another troubleshooting guide is to read your plugs and see if there is any overheating symptoms.
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people said my plugs are ok.... taken not long ago..
user posted image

This post has been edited by zedyll: Mar 19 2015, 10:37 PM
zedyll
post Mar 20 2015, 01:01 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Mar 19 2015, 10:55 PM)
I was saying we go with cars, then park the car outside of performace shop, then u start running on the dyno roller like thradmill see u hoe many horsepowah. Poke the CO sensor in uranus, while u run try to fart & see how many PPM laugh.gif
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haha lol... laugh.gif

thinking back, i do need workout to increase HP & reduce FC. laugh.gif

QUOTE(davidke20 @ Mar 19 2015, 10:55 PM)
Ok back to serious. Why not open the rocker cover, tighten back all your valve lifters to factory spec. I believe may improve a lot of your town driving mileage. Besides, tighter lift doesn't really deter that much of mid high end power anyways. If you tighten the carbs to further lean it, infact the factory setup lifts not only can give you better mileage + smoother pickup + gentle to ears and I believe will reduce the cikikcukucikicukuparaparasakura engine off situation nod.gif No harm trying right?

But ayam not a tight lifter guy laugh.gif After my oberhol, magician tuned my car until so nice, I forced him to redo the lifters 3 times until I satisfy blush.gif
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now my engine oredi sounds loud of cikikcukucikicuku......paraparasakura part not yet...which means head replacement. laugh.gif oredi checked with my mech, luckily just the valve lifter needs adjustment. will do so this sunday along with valve gasket replacement. sweat.gif

This post has been edited by zedyll: Mar 20 2015, 01:04 AM
zedyll
post Mar 20 2015, 08:18 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Mar 20 2015, 10:31 AM)
Was there dieseling at the time when the plug photo was taken? Maybe the situation has changed after the timing readjust..

Anyway dieseling has various causes, need to try out different things. I have it too, in my case, no clear trend, tried a few things, still searching...
*
hmm...i think that time occasionally occurs....like every 4 days 1 time hmm.gif
zedyll
post May 3 2015, 07:45 PM

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Hi, today i took out all my spark plugs to check their condition and tried gaping them to almost 0.8mm.

But all my spark plugs look like this:
user posted image

Half of the spark plugs body are covered with oil sludge, while half is dry and brownish. can anybody diagnose it for me? sad.gif

This post has been edited by zedyll: May 3 2015, 07:45 PM
zedyll
post May 3 2015, 11:24 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ May 3 2015, 10:20 PM)
Lubrication oil is leaking past the valve stem seals and mixing with the air-fuel charge and splashing on the plugs. How old are your valve stem seals?
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I'm not sure....since i just owned it early this year. which means it is the valve seals? How much approx cost to change them? sad.gif
zedyll
post May 7 2015, 07:16 PM

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QUOTE(Tham @ May 5 2015, 05:15 PM)
It may also be your piston rings, and the valve stems/guides themselves
may also have worn.

How much is the mileage on your odometer ?

Anyway, replace the valve seals first, for economy.

You can buy the NOK green Viton seals at :

Universal Auto Parts
26 Jln Sungei Besi, KL

RM60 for a pack of 12.
Or you may buy the generic Vitons at any parts shops, such as Meng Pew above.

Note that the brown-colored NOK seals are polyacrylate, lower temperature
resistance than Vitons.

Buy a new rubber seal for the engine cover as well, around RM 10-12.
Take them to Ah Keong, mechanic at Hup Seng Car Cooler
in Taman Cheras (Yulek).

https://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl=en&gb...+kaskas+2&cid=0
He used to replace them for RM90 two years ago if you bring your own seals.

If you let him supply the seals and rubber, may cost you about RM200 in all.
He has a special tool, where he can pull out the seals without having
to take out the cylinder head.

He first pumps compressed air to fill each cylinder, via the spark plug holes,
so that the valves are pushed upwards.

A two hour job.
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Thanks bro for the detailed advise! I'm not sure what's the mileage. I guess probably....a LOT.....maybe already more than 200,000 km.... i'm 4th owner currently. sweat.gif Already changed rubber seals for engine cover last month due to small leakage. thumbup.gif

But for valve seals I didn't do it yet... I'm in Kedah/Penang area.... sad.gif

This post has been edited by zedyll: May 7 2015, 07:20 PM
zedyll
post May 7 2015, 07:18 PM

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I regapped my spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm-0.9mm. No more dieselling occurs! Note that guys! thumbup.gif
zedyll
post May 7 2015, 10:37 PM

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QUOTE(jedi_master @ May 7 2015, 10:27 PM)
what heat range are you using?
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the mechanic throw in bp6es-11 plugs when i got the car...he said the old plugs are fully oily black and my engine needs top overhaul. Fukk that, my new plugs no more black after carb tuning. But just recently got half wet due to valve seal leak. cry.gif

Fukk, Kedah area all mechanics wanna rip off their customers. vmad.gif

This post has been edited by zedyll: May 8 2015, 01:25 AM
zedyll
post Jun 2 2015, 01:56 AM

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Hi guys, my exhaust already leaking..... i went surveying straight flow at shops, and found an oval body straight flow, RM180 with installation. Is it worth it? Looks good, but never heard the brand. sweat.gif
zedyll
post Jun 3 2015, 07:32 AM

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QUOTE(zedyll @ Jun 2 2015, 01:56 AM)
Hi guys, my exhaust already leaking..... i went surveying straight flow at shops, and found an oval body straight flow, RM180 with installation. Is it worth it? Looks good, but never heard the brand. sweat.gif
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Nvm....oredi installed the straight flow. noticeable pickups. thumbup.gif
zedyll
post Jun 17 2015, 11:52 PM

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Hi guys, i was quoted RM120 for valve seal change labour without warranty. Valve seals provided by me. Is it worth it?
zedyll
post Jun 19 2015, 05:32 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jun 18 2015, 10:51 AM)
When I did mine 1 year ago it was RM160 inclusive of seals.

Maybe you can ask for a couple of quotes from other shops just to confirm.

Also, if your rocker cover seal is leaking, might as well include this item too.
*
Thanks bro! Which mean my seals cost RM44 + labour RM120 = RM164.... quite okay! thumbup.gif The workshop i inquired is p44autoworks in penang.... i heard good reviews about the workshop. smile.gif

This post has been edited by zedyll: Jun 19 2015, 05:32 PM
zedyll
post Aug 20 2015, 01:18 PM

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QUOTE(sinister_sid @ Aug 13 2015, 08:38 PM)
Hi guys .
Hehe just dropping by .
Just to spread some poison , one of our members yewwing saga just done a 4g92 swap running a weber dcnf carb . Enjoy tongue.gif
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how many mountings need to mod for 4g92? Interested as well. drool.gif
zedyll
post Sep 2 2015, 03:01 PM

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Hi guys.....is it worth it to change engine block capacity 1.3 4g13 to 1.5 4g15? I'm still using carburetor system.
zedyll
post Sep 23 2015, 02:44 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 22 2015, 09:55 PM)
better absorbers (although personally i think the stock KYB are fine, else you may consider IMP comfort), wider/larger tires (195/55/15 or 195/50/15), good tires.
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Hi, i recently changed to new KYB absorbers (oil at front, gas at back) along with new abs mountings. But i still feel vibrations and hear noises when running over potholes and uneven road surfaces. Seems to feel like I didn't even changed absorbers. What can I do? Please advice.... cry.gif
zedyll
post Sep 24 2015, 06:54 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 23 2015, 04:12 AM)
when your bushing/suspensions and most importantly identify where the sound is coming from
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is it possible due to the weak spring? sad.gif
zedyll
post Oct 5 2015, 06:01 PM

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Hi, today i installed vacuum gauge. But the reading is at 12inHg at idle. It supposed to be 20 inHg right? what should I do? sad.gif

UPDATE: Here's the video:


This post has been edited by zedyll: Oct 5 2015, 08:23 PM
zedyll
post Oct 6 2015, 02:12 AM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Oct 6 2015, 01:29 AM)
From my DEC 6 2011 post:
Car at <30k km, ignition timing stock proton advanced at 12-13 BTDC. My vacuum gauge shows 21.3 when air con kicks in and 24.4 when idle.

Currently 100k km:
Due to aging and retarded ignition timing to advanced 10 BTDC now, its around 18-19 inHG.

Guess you have leaky vacuum hose or worse to worse incorrect ignition or valve timing?
http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html
*
I did retard ignition timing early this year due to massive pinging/ spark knock. My mech didn't tell me at what degree BTDC did he adjust. sad.gif

The spark knock/ pinging arises after carb adjustment. I had crazy high FC. sweat.gif

Now all haywire. cry.gif

i want to tune back to stock setting. what should i do first.... step by step? icon_question.gif


extra: is valve timing related to cam timing? I ask my mech about valve timing..he doesn't know. icon_question.gif

This post has been edited by zedyll: Oct 6 2015, 02:19 AM

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