Do you have any picture or guides?

Okay thanks. The upper nut is the one below the dipstick in the picture right? Will have a look when I'm free. How tight should I tighten it?

I tightened it until it is like 2 person pulling on a rope at each end. Maybe 1 or 2mm for me to pull it up or down?
Will any problem arise? I just read Albert image and saw it mention 6 or 7 mm normal tension.
Can I leave it this way?

I just use my finger to try to pull it upwards and push it downwards at the center of the belt. Can move around 1-2 mm, like 2 person pulling a rope at each end to make the rope straight.

I don't really know how to estimate 10kg finger pressure as well. Before this, I think I can move the belt up or down maybe 1 or 2 cm / 1 inch..

Do you think I should go and loosen it some more?

Btw, this belt doesn't turn when AC is off right?

This post has been edited by fortuner11: Jun 5 2016, 11:49 AM

Okay the 1-2mm is when I apply very light finger pressure like trying to see how much "loose" space I can lift it up or push it down. I think this probably not 10 kg from the looks of it. I did not over-pull it like trying to see how much the rubber can "stretch".

I will try to see if my kitchen scale, which use to measure flour have 10kg reading or not. I'll try and get that feel.

Yes the belt should be running all the time like you said. I can't recall a time I've seen it stop.
Used to think it is the timing belt but I read timing belt is hidden under or something.

If AC belt happen to break, it wouldn't affect the timing belt and car still runs?

I guess I'll leave it as it is for now.
I re-checked again on the tension. The belt doesn't stretch much when I pull it with force.
So I can only roughly see how much "free play" or "loose space" I can lift it up or push it down.
I guess overall, the space distance between when I pull it up max and push it down max is about maybe 1 cm.
So I guess it is probably 4-5mm up and 4-5mm down.
In worst scenario, if tension on the pulley bearings, what's gonna happen? Is it costly to repair?

Normally when change engine oil, do mechanics apply teflon/white tape on the drain plug to avoid leaking? A lot of cars I see drip engine oil after servicing is that because of not applying this on the plug?

I think mine has lost the gasket. Do mechanics have the replacement gasket or should I ask them to put teflon tape next oil change to avoid leaking?

My dashboard clock always not accurate. After adjusting, it will go faster and faster after few weeks. Is the clock spoiled beyond repair or some other issues?

Wanted to find tune the AC belt tension after the first attempt few months back. Still have minor sound once in while when aircond on.

Measured the existing tension first using ruler. Pull up the belt is about 4-5mm..

But then I noticed my spanner keep slipping want to turn the side nut. Don't know why. Last time I use the same spanner no problem. Looks like the side nut seem stuck.

But can turn the top nut. I'm not sure whether that has any effect when the side nut is not turned. Seems like can have a bit of effect. I can just turn the top nut with hand. Didn't tighten it with spanner in the end. Just hand tighten.

Any ideas weather the top nut have effect when turned without turning the side nut?

This post has been edited by fortuner11: Aug 20 2016, 11:17 PM

What I did was first use open-ended spanner to turn the side nut. At first, thought it was loose (actually later found my spanner just slipping).

Later I use the same spanner to turn the top screw to loosen it.

After that I can just freely turn it (top screw) counter clockwise with my finger till the entire top screw can be unscrew until it goes way up maybe 2-3 inches (almost out of its socket). Didn't feel much change in the tension of belt. So I use finger to turn it clockwise back to its resting position. Didn't bother to use spanner to tighten it.

After that only I try the side nut again and realize it seem stuck. I use another spanner this time - the one which can self adjust the gap - when it is tight, I try to force it either clockwise or anticlockwise but didn't seem like wanting to move.

So now just left with the side nut not not moving. Not sure if maybe I overtighten it last time I adjust the thing. And the top nut I yet to tighten it with spanner. Just leave it hand tightened.

The AC belt tension for now about more or less same as before I did this 2nd adjustment (~4-5 mm).

While doing it, I also see another belt in front of the AC belt. I think this must be the alternator belt. I use finger to test its tension. It was way more tense than my AC belt. As if almost 0mm tension. This is the tension there since long time ago.

This post has been edited by fortuner11: Aug 21 2016, 08:39 PM

Is size for the side screw should be the same as the top screw?
I am using the double ended open spanner. The side with the same size which is used to loosen the nut on the battery holder.

Somehow it still feel like the spanner size is a little large for the side screw.

Checked mine. Strange, the side and top are both 12. But the side still stuck. I think the nut may have rounded a little bit. Maybe need to find the spanner which is round headed that wrap on the whole nut.

Mean while, I happen to look at the fuel pump and I notice that the top hose is actually just plugged there but not sealed to the fuel pump body outlet. It just loosely over the body outlet, not air tight or sealed. Is this normal? This hose connect to some kind of thin metal hose on the firewall. Is this the return to fuel tank hose? There is only one hose on the fuel pump which has a nut screwed tight. I think it is the fuel in hose.

Let me check again.

The one that I thought is loose is the one you label as "return".

However, I think I am looking at the brown shiny hose that seem to cover over the hose underneath.
Is that some kind of protective coat hose? It's not the actual hose I think right? Your picture shows a rubber tube underneath that coat hose. What I sense as loose I was looking at that shiny hose/ outer coating hose.

So the outer protective cover is not sealed/glued to anything right? I can see mine is just loose and just loosely fit over the underneath tube. Only 2 of the tubes have this cover - the OUT and RETURN. The IN and BREATHER tube don't have this shiny cover. Curious to why is it not all have that extra coating tube? Is that to protect the tube from high heat in some areas that may melt the rubber or something?

Is there any benefit to pump some RON97 to mix with RON95 if the car is less driven, to keep the RON more stable over longer time?

My engine oil pressure indicator on the dashboard went totally OFF for some time. During startup, before cranking engine, the dashboard only show BATTERY icon. Suppose to show both OIL PRESSURE ICON and BATTERY icon when they key is at ON.

I thought the bulb is burnt.

But after taking out dipstick to check level and put back one day, it comes back to life.

Is that a sensor issue?

Does the Iswara have very low designed 1st gear?
Normally I feel that when starting off from non moving, the 1st gear is at most useful for 1 or 2 seconds to get the car moving and then I would shift to 2nd gear quickly. It can't be used for dragging forward very long, unless on a slope or heavy car load.
Sometimes it feels like maybe better to just start from 2nd gear if not carrying passengers and on level ground.

If one area of bulbs (not whole area) on the dashboard meter flicker on and off when driving with headlight on, what is the possible problems? The printed circuit board inside the dashboard meter is damaged? Any urgency to fix it?