Panai wor Put more grounding can ady



This post has been edited by davidke20: Nov 24 2014, 07:10 AM

Not lansi bcoz got a job. Getting a new job nowadays is so much insecured compare to stay in a crappy komani I understand your konsen geh. So I sensor now la. I used to work in AmBank just like n3w, which their insurance offer no road assist unless pay extra RM80 for PA coverage Corrrect me if ayam wrong

Aiyo! Pasola update sudah enti

Hai Ruby

So far, the best Plotong original produced 15" alloy wheels, these are my preference


Wajunk Kampro


Personga

Both not compatible with GaGa

Your rim looks 14, mine looks 12 izit

Could be bat3 KO, could your alarm module sot ady. Now, can you start your car? When you use key to unlock, does centre lock unlock all other doors or only the driver door? If only the driver door, high possibility is bat3 KO. If not, take out the key and make sure you keep it in your pocket. Keep atleast 2 doors opened, pop the hood, detach the bat3 negative terminal for 10 seconds and plonk back. Usually your alarm will automatically trigger, use your remote control fob to turn it off. By right everything will be back to normal. If it doesn't, probably alarm module got water go inside become sot jor

Since talked about rims


I think A7 rim looks perfect on BLMs


Off topic abit, the crack butt finally being replaced


Tengkiu SiuYi! Owe you this since my birday

Not mai kar lar I post that foto for SiuYi coz he helped me got the good deal for that bamper repleismen nia

Will you consider to continue it as a side income thing? Incase people find, then you offer lor. Infact, ayam actually looking for the saisket & front bamper liao Now the rear bamper so fat so low, make the car looks like butt too big

The 1 that caused error is 3rd berak lamp, ECU linked checksum error due to irregular voltage usage.

Off topic, just how often do you see an S16 running around ever since FLX+ was introduced Wondering can we get a special episode of Mighty Car Mods to look into mods on S16 or FLX+



This post has been edited by davidke20: Nov 27 2014, 12:51 PM

Ahhh..... That explains everything



Hmm...

http://youtu.be/vRcTOtxDWSM?t=5m3s

Our local folks complaint about the harsh ride of the FLX

That's what I have in mind Just that I curious where to get the sockets to make the backup sensor works, so can prevent cutting wires to the original sensor kenjilew?

Don't order from Malaysia. Our local fuckers rebadged it as WORKS ENGINEERING, so it looks more US rather than Taiwanese. That way, can sell at higher price

http://www.lelong.com.my/works-usa-stainle...7-01-Sale-I.htm

Might as well directly order from Taiwan

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301014875103?ss...984.m1423.l2649

They're the exact same stuff. Why pay more for a rebadged, over priced, heavier shipping cost version

The above is extra info about other's CVT problem from a different car. Don't bother to read if you're not interested. For FLX, so far the only CVT issues I've heard:

1) Use wrong type of transmission fluid, jammed the whole damn thing. Guess who did it? Plotong authorized service center
2) Shift lever sensor malfunction, stuck with P/N often.
3) Shift lever "P" lock botton always break into trillion pieces
4) Belt position sensor malfunction

Basically 1~3 are human error that causes the tranny dead. Thus far, haven't heard of any serious mechanical failure YET, and hopefully will not hear it for a very long time to come.

Design wise, that is as much we can say. Plotong choose to utilize VT2, and it was sold as is. Some of our forum member kind enough contacted Punch, got some reply regarding the jerking issue during cold start and stop/go traffic was due to firmware issue, which Plotong did not match our Kampro with their transmission firmware properly. Otherwise, it's the position sensor.

On the side note, we also uses a Datsun manual tranny in a GaGa BLM 5MT (No the Oz version of S16 uses a different tranny than the 1 we're using locally )

Nismo made Langley 1.5 Tebu klac to be exact

Try Plotong Shawie 1.2 stock Renault klac It will snap your left leg any point of time, have not include traffic jam infront of KLCC. It's not a performance klac. It went slipped several time when I taking my Shawie for time attack. The klac will loose traction if I do 6krpm launch, instead of wheel spin

So here's a thing for you to dig into, study how a manual clutch work, then you justify what is hardcore and what's not Usually tebu or NS street car klac has very little different interns of mechanical design. If it's a standard klac, the most different between a performance klac and street use klac will be as below:




1) Performance clutch pad has rough and high friction power facing(pads). Usually they worn off very quickly compare to street use pads. Certain design of the clutch plate will have separated spokes to increase friction and air venting function, just like people lay grooves on their disc brake rotors.




2) Number of torsional spring, and their spring rating differs according to occupation. If it's a rally clutch, the spring does not require much calibration on high RPM, but it has to be stiff as rally engines are set to produce maximum torque at lower RPM and gear changing is extremely rapid. The more torsional spring attached to your clutch plate does not mean your clutch can take higher power, instead it produce very smooth transition when you engage/disengage clutch pedal. On the opposite note, a racing clutch usually has less number of torsional spring, rather to have fewer but longer and harsher spring to sustain extreme friction during higher RPM launch(to prevent the entire clutch plate get twisted/scrambled by the flywheel).




3) Design of the pressure plate(layman term known as clutch cover) will differ according to occupation. Aftermarket performance clutch pressure plate can be very efficient in holding the clutch friction, whist maintain very light pedal action if the pressure release plate being designed properly. Have a look at the angle of the lift springs and you'll get the idea why is it important to change the whole set of clutch instead of just changing the clutch pad itself.

Nonetheless, by having a better performance clutch, 1 can mechanically tune the car to be as close to stock kinda clutch action, without jeopardizing too much of the comfort. That however, 1 thing can never be iron out would be the contact TRIGGER point. Performance clutch will always have a harsher trigger(where the clutch is about to engage your engine, which people use to hold the car from rolling back in 1st gear infront of traffic light).

My point is, it's not about hardcore. It's about finding a suitable performance part You want hardcore? This is hardcore. Triple plate clutch for GTR

I had to agree with that statement from Punch as I found out the issue from SHAWIE instead of GaGa U heard me right, from a totally different engine and transmission layout Shawie.



1) Shawie uses manual clutch controlled by accumulator pump, it's very similar to FLX CVT utilizing wet clutch that controlled by brake pedal as a trigger to disengage clutch.

2) When the engine is less efficient than the clutch engagement timing, jerking/choking/engine stall is in-eminent.

You see, it's sort of vicious cycle when

a) clutch is engaged with gear(CVT) trying to pickup speed
b) engine has not ready to speed up
c) clutch detected abnormally low torque output, either decided to disengage to prevent engine stall or downshift(shrink the CVT belt to higher ratio puller to gain speed)
d) engine detected abnormally high ratio from transmission, figured needed higher power, hence auto adjust throttle to squeeze more power out from engine to accommodate
e) CVT detected higher output, expand CVT belt to lower ratio puller to utilize torque to convert to speed
f) engine has not ready to speed up (*goes back to b)

Until 1 point when speed and engine output matches with CVT ratio and clutch position, then only it became buttery smooth Our Shawie AMT has the exact same issue