I was shitting, suddenly notification cum

I usually wake up @ 5, then prepare my protein shakes, boil water make milk for kids. Once gaodim, check forum abit, play Ice Age. About 6 need to drop a few pounds & shower liao. So basically its the same routine on weekdays Dotter skol starts @ 7:15, so no choice lar gotta leave home 6:45 due to trafuk kondisen despite only 2km away

Here's what's next. After 2 years+ of ownership with my BLM, trying so hard to improve its throttle response, now that I came to a solid conclusion after witnessing several GaGa in the attempt of "increase horse power" on a dyno machine.

The stock 4-1 manifold is indeed too short before hitting the catcon. Hence exhaust flow was blocked due to conflict of cylinder purge. Anyone who change their exhaust manifold to after market performance extractor will indeed restore some horse power, we're looking @ about 5-10 wheel horse power! If u have an idea of tuning a normal aspirated engine, each wheel horse power gain is a thousand dollar investment! Have seen most if not all Campro S4PE running on standard extractor below 80whp, some worst below 70whp. Whereas many other S4PE who replaced their extractor to after market had a significant power restored to 80 & above. So far the highest power dyno output I've seen is 95.5whp & 95whp. Both of them are our forum member.

When u ask for decat, the 1st thing in mind is environment & polution. Frankly, I do not encourage removal of catcon. So my next big thing is, after installation of after market performance extractor, I'm going to put back a catcon to see how much power loss after the 5-10whp restoration. If after catcon can still bring me back to 80whp region, I'm more than happy to keep it that way as a tree hugger.

Finally, the significant of 4-2-1 & 4-1 extractor. Sadly, what I believed all these while was partially untruth & no opportunity to make comparison between the 2 evil on a same car(who would wanna have 2 sets of extractor on a same car just to dyno for the truth). Anyway, some comparison was done between similar layout of vehicle with similar mods has been done. So here's the truth, 2 B16A was tested on the same day.

Specimen A) HKS green mushroom with Spoon sausage intake ram, Mugen 4-1, hotbits bullet, 2" piping & Spoon S-flow, yielded 142whp with drastic jump on vtec opening on stock ECU.

Specimen B) Spoon sport drop in filter, TODA 4-2-1, hotbits bullet, 2" piping & Fujitsubo chambered muffler, yielded 143whp with slightly smoother vetc opening on stock ECU.

I have no picture to show u as owners preferred stay anonymous for their security reasons. Anyways, the comparison between the 2 EGs are on the same dyno platform. The result shown 4-1 extractor has less initial power output due to conflict of exhaust purge I believe. However, once rpm raise to 4k, torque curve for 4-1 improved significantly better than 4-2-1 due to straight output with less joints. Whilst 4-2-1 slowly catching up by 6krpm, both car show similar power curve 1 stays @ 142, another @ 143. I wouldn't know whether the chambered muffler has restricted exhaust flow from 4-2-1 or the Spoon S-flow helps on the big jump of vtec gain for 4-1 extractor.

My conclusion is, either way they should yield similar output where 4-1 give much better mid/high end power, whereas 4-2-1 is generally smoother & steady output system. I going to work with 4-2-1 and show u my dyno chart once its done. And the follow up action will be having catcon & decat comparison. Have a good day.

Whoah

Plonk jump start kabel, leave triton injin running for 5 minits dulu, don't touch the GaGa until 5 minit. Then try setat lagi, by right 1 kik sudah hidup.

Another thing is, when u say selow & kenot setat, does it sound like "hick hick hick heeeeee" or "wuek... Kek... Kek... Kek...." Lidat? If hick hick hick no kek kek kek sound, no need setat liao, taiming belt sudah putus simpan duet oberhol lar. If kek... Kek... Kek selowly, means not enuf powah to setat. If oni hear tek tek tek sound, mungkin setater relay koyak or bat3 totally flat, ur setater totally relying on jumper kabel liao, hence not even got enuf powah to push setater solenoid out, macamane mau hear the injin kek kek kek sound?

Plotong GaGa/Perdangna V6 setater is dual layer solenoid geh, won't rosak so easily. Usually pipu(bad magician) like to kondem GaGa setater rosak is bcoz after the bugger tukak relay den cheat u say sudah tukak setater. Tibai relay baru RM25 nanti he cas u RM400 tukak setater sebenarnyer talak tukak, mana boley tak senang "rosak"?

U be the huait rat then so far I only have TONNKA besi puteh 421 CPS edition dyno results on Gen2, satey 1.3, wajunk kampro, all shown between 5-10whp gain. Dun kam blame me if u changed jor powah drop

Hold the poney just a little more while Ayam gaji not in yet. Nowadays, other than TONNKA, I haven't seen any extractor dyno result comparison before/after stock mods So, you wanna go spend money for butt dyno means go ahead

Be remind, TONNKA result I've got is also not officially from their own promotional material. I collected data from their consumer instead! So far, all boley land modder that promote their ekzos gain powah, none of them put up dyno chart komparison YET Do you believe promotional results from manufacturer? Or believe in consumer before/after dyno feedback

TONNKA looking for thousand. Ayam going for an alternative. So, you'll have to wait for a cheap investment than. Looking at about RM500.

Melted liao

hang punya icon tarak maciam GaGa mia injinbei

2 moons ago, we so happened managed to bring 1 of our own S4P3 GaGa go dyno. Whilst we managed to squeezed 95.5whp, the blacktop who spent 10s of thousands on tuning & performance parts, clocked 114whp

Mohawk is local brand?! Dafuq r yiu toking abau I tot it's European cuntry geh? Czech Republic or sumting Yiu r referring to dis izit

https://www.facebook.com/pages/MOHICAN-Car-...171256169591730

Don't say I purposely go sarcastic on u. Here's a little contribution from my point of view if u value it. Our Clarion is made for bass mid by default. Stock form came with rated 50w x 4 channel output. Preset equalizer are made to perform with bass mid speakers, particularly on low impedance loud speakers @ 4ohm. If u plonk 8ohm speakers, it will strain the built in amplifier 50w/2, but the good thing is u get more stable output(according to my ears) instead of pop corn sound. & generally 8ohm home use speakers are much cheaper than ICE.

On the side note, usually aeroplane whining noise came with statis charges that goes around the vehicle. 1 of the major culprit is the alternator, as the pulsating charging frequency may jumble up with your signal output. Hence, the higher RPM u go, higher pitch of whining noise u heard. Its not that if u change to aftermarket audio system can eleminate such problem, its about how u wire it up. In order to remove(reduce) static noise from head unit, 1 can opt to add in a small voltage stabilizer before the main power supply to the headunit. Follow up with extra grounding wire that attach directly back to battery -ve pole.

If u have an external amplifier, make sure the RCA cable are high quality static free type(not those expansive cable that came with noise supressor, instead a pure copper wire that came with quality insulation is suffice). Other than that, the power cable has to be good conductive quality that directly link to your battery terminal. Grounding work, I suggest to use the same material as your power cable, directly link it back to battery -ve terminal instead of chassis grounding. Imagine, usually workshop will ground your amp on the seat mounting if u plonk amp under the seat, to cut cost. When u have a grounding work on seat, the static noise will be amplified as well due to long travelling distance, so as various restriction along the way. Eg.ECU,dashboard instruments,engine itself,CVT,door lamp,headlamp,brake lamp, anything u can name it in the car will make your speaker sound like pop corn, instead of crunchy clean tone.

Last but not least, if u r anal enough. Can use an external relay to trigger the ignition signal. Usually amplifiers came with a control relay that link to headunit to kick start the amp as & when u switch on the HU. U can choose to add an external relay, directly link power supply to the battery +ve terminal, whereas the kick start wire from HU link to the relay itself. Meaning that relay now become your filter, taking clean signal directly from battery instead of HU. We're merely touching the cabling setup. GaGa itself is a bad hardware to begin with, 1 could probably invest up to many thousand on sound proofing to make it a better platform for clean tone.

All these cabling works will not cost more than 200 investment, but it will be a good foundation for future mods. U can choose to wire up the system in conventional way, tapping ground work from chassis & use direct ignition signal from HU just like any 1 will do, the nutshell is the limitation of power supply & many static charges going loose in your sound environment.

I'm not an ICE guy, more of a performance lad. U may choose to ignore or correct me if ayam wrong. These are my personal experience from the old days when I spent my entire salary on my old Corolla, on a monthly basis. coolkwc is a better ICE sifu in my opinion. He may shed u some light.

Ah hypermile kaki eh. Regardless, CVT gets the most out of it. Several of my friends managed to clock similar mileage with their GaGa CVT as well. So far the best record I've seen on MT was 570km/tank. Mine was 540km

Whole tank is 40litre. Usable 35lit.

You sound like a pro. Anyways, those are only my personal opinion, not necessarily fit all.

Adding capacitor will not alter ECU fuel mapping, however adding resistor to intake MAP sensor will

Running a 1.5 4AT dinosaur, 35lit for 400km in city drive is considerably reasonable fuel save. Try a Kampro 1.3 with 4AT iskazulka For that 35lit on city I think around 220km ady fuel warning dao until wanna picah desbod liao

Case to case basis, we have very little information on the transponder chip model. However, price to made 1 key here in Malaysia, factory will reset the transponder code and the immobilizer 1 shot(together with the new key) would cost around RM200. Translate in Oz would be around 70 bucks I guess.

Takan nak fly wankel all the way from Oz to Boleyland just to fabricate a new key aik

Open the door panel and check what is actually squeeking then only decide. Before that, check also whether striker plate wrapper ady broken, there's 1 layer of rubbery thing wrapped around the striker plate's hook to avoid your door grinding the lock whilst chassis flex, when that rubbery thing gone then it will squeek. Temporary measure will be use wire tape to wrap around the hook. Otherwise, getting a new strike plate will only cost you some RM18 iirc.