dunno, thts why white rat lo... haha.... u can c the difference between my cap ayam with other ppl cap ayam.. a bit like cincai do those type wan.. thts why i feel like wana change my extractor...

recently my right foot sudah light ma. even though now use 10w30 oil still same right foot. no need question my right foot. i give u my right foot baru tau 

r3apers sad worse in city driving.

recently my right foot sudah light ma. even though now use 10w30 oil still same right foot. no need question my right foot. i give u my right foot baru tau 

r3apers said worse in city driving.

I mau tukar but at last u made my plan failed. 

i said worse in city driving becoz mine is 2" piping not stock already.
if u wan u wait me tukar i pinjam mine u go test test... but labor fee u sendiri tanggung...

U cakap minyak makan 99 punya compared to default. 

i said worse in city driving becoz mine is 2" piping not stock already.
if u wan u wait me tukar i pinjam mine u go test test... but labor fee u sendiri tanggung...

so should be good if 4-2-1 with stock size piping? apa stock size piping?

will transfer you to others to answer your questions.
iinm triton use N70 battery ( i just hack into triton thread  ).. saga N60. dunno saga can support.
maybe try other jumper cable as the cable rosaked perhaps?
btw what brand battery u use?
iinm ur battery last 1 year ady. considered lucky if can last more than that.

or maybe immobilizer rosaked perhaps?
try using other spare keys?

Plonk jump start kabel, leave triton injin running for 5 minits dulu, don't touch the GaGa until 5 minit. Then try setat lagi, by right 1 kik sudah hidup.

Another thing is, when u say selow & kenot setat, does it sound like "hick hick hick heeeeee" or "wuek... Kek... Kek... Kek...." Lidat? If hick hick hick no kek kek kek sound, no need setat liao, taiming belt sudah putus simpan duet oberhol lar. If kek... Kek... Kek selowly, means not enuf powah to setat. If oni hear tek tek tek sound, mungkin setater relay koyak or bat3 totally flat, ur setater totally relying on jumper kabel liao, hence not even got enuf powah to push setater solenoid out, macamane mau hear the injin kek kek kek sound?

Plotong GaGa/Perdangna V6  setater is dual layer solenoid geh, won't rosak so easily. Usually pipu(bad magician) like to kondem GaGa setater rosak is bcoz after the bugger tukak relay den cheat u say sudah tukak setater. Tibai relay baru RM25 nanti he cas u RM400 tukak setater sebenarnyer talak tukak, mana boley tak senang "rosak"? 

your fault then, but can go buy used branded extractor.. fuel price increase, so many de-mod.. go buy leh
ok2, i sit far2 cry 

hmm, if cable rosak wont create spark d right, when +ve and -ve touches each other..
the battery i am current using is GP..
even the first battery also lasted me 1 year plus. well, maybe tomorrow get a new battery and try 
already tried to leave it more than 10 minutes still tak boleh..
hmm, no idea how to sound it out, just something like 'tek tek tek' without crank.
every 5k i do my service at proton SC, if it is due, they will change right.. also the car just 3 years++ only..
thanks for the information, will ask first before let them do

1) Load the bat3 before test, to check how much dry on your bat3
2) Load the bat3 when car started, check altenator jalan a not
3) Load the bat3 again after engine stop, to make sure your bat3 sure talak masuk cas baru konfirm KO

Its perfectly normal and according to standard bat3 checking procedure. Just that, whether did you open the sticker and check water 1st. If you did not check... there is a good chance workshop fella going to tear it off, top up bat3 water and sell 2nd hand bat3 for RM50/piece, and the new owner prolly going to enjoy 2nd hen bat3 up to another 1 ~ 2 years. In short, you rugi lah! *if the bat3 do running low on bat3 fluid the time it discharge quickly

No particular time table. If the original mentenen phree bat3 is working fine, then don't bother. Until it shows symphtoms like after long night cold start, starter doesn't kick in immediately. Something like you turn the key, it crank once " queek..." Silent turn the key again "wekekeke VROOM" baru start, this is typical sympthom of bat3 less than 12V. Then you cabut sticker(normally after warranty, if still within 1 year better go claim warranty), open the water cap & top up bat3 water.

After cabut sticker, the bat3 is no longer mentenen phree, need to check it regularly, like once a week. Lazy bugger may do it every oil change(5k)

The nickle plate still worth a few bucks can be clean up and recycle. Casing still can be recycle when they put in new nicle plate. Your case could be these facts:

1) Those plates has been running dry for too long, even you top up water doesn't channel enough ION to recharge itself. In short, died prematurely.

2) Those plates already died. That's all, better luck next time.

3) what is your normal travel distance? Normally I'll drive without air-con when I have a full discharged bat3(for example forgot to switch off headlamps), to recharge it 9 9 by driving it long distance to recharge it. If your plates not dead, it could be not enough charge... may be

Since change jor, then don't think too much lor

May be its not that bad lar Bcoz the meter can't tarek that much also. If he go load several time then your battery ady running out of charge, which means its not keeping charge well ady. You can imagine if you stop the car at night, it left 12.5V, but it discharge quickly, by tomolo it left 11.7V then you have hard time trying to crank your engine lor. I think load several time to scare you quickly change bat3 is very normal lar, even if this workshop doesn't do the next 1 also will do. But normally grease monkey like me, I'll ask him to load 1 time then let me see the reading by myself.

1) Stop car for more than 15minutes, get him load the bat3 to see how much left inside, should be around 12.5V
2) Start the car see how much it charge. 13.8 ~ 14.1 is very healthy alternator(no load, running idling speed)
3) Stop engine, immediately load the bat3 and see how much it drop.

Since change ady, nothing left you can do just enjoy the new bat3 and the peace of mind

yes.
btw, last time use what brand oil?

Here's what's next. After 2 years+ of ownership with my BLM, trying so hard to improve its throttle response, now that I came to a solid conclusion after witnessing several GaGa in the attempt of "increase horse power" on a dyno machine.

The stock 4-1 manifold is indeed too short before hitting the catcon. Hence exhaust flow was blocked due to conflict of cylinder purge. Anyone who change their exhaust manifold to after market performance extractor will indeed restore some horse power, we're looking @ about 5-10 wheel horse power! If u have an idea of tuning a normal aspirated engine, each wheel horse power gain is a thousand dollar investment! Have seen most if not all Campro S4PE running on standard extractor below 80whp, some worst below 70whp. Whereas many other S4PE who replaced their extractor to after market had a significant power restored to 80 & above. So far the highest power dyno output I've seen is 95.5whp & 95whp. Both of them are our forum member.

When u ask for decat, the 1st thing in mind is environment & polution. Frankly, I do not encourage removal of catcon. So my next big thing is, after installation of after market performance extractor, I'm going to put back a catcon to see how much power loss after the 5-10whp restoration. If after catcon can still bring me back to 80whp region, I'm more than happy to keep it that way as a tree hugger.

Finally, the significant of 4-2-1 & 4-1 extractor. Sadly, what I believed all these while was partially untruth & no opportunity to make comparison between the 2 evil on a same car(who would wanna have 2 sets of extractor on a same car just to dyno for the truth). Anyway, some comparison was done between similar layout of vehicle with similar mods has been done. So here's the truth, 2 B16A was tested on the same day.

Specimen A) HKS green mushroom with Spoon sausage intake ram, Mugen 4-1, hotbits bullet, 2" piping & Spoon S-flow, yielded 142whp with drastic jump on vtec opening on stock ECU.

Specimen B) Spoon sport drop in filter, TODA 4-2-1, hotbits bullet, 2" piping & Fujitsubo chambered muffler, yielded 143whp with slightly smoother vetc opening on stock ECU.

I have no picture to show u as owners preferred stay anonymous for their security reasons. Anyways, the comparison between the 2 EGs are on the same dyno platform. The result shown 4-1 extractor has less initial power output due to conflict of exhaust purge I believe. However, once rpm raise to 4k, torque curve for 4-1 improved significantly better than 4-2-1 due to straight output with less joints. Whilst 4-2-1 slowly catching up by 6krpm, both car show similar power curve 1 stays @ 142, another @ 143. I wouldn't know whether the chambered muffler has restricted exhaust flow from 4-2-1 or the Spoon S-flow helps on the big jump of vtec gain for 4-1 extractor.

My conclusion is, either way they should yield similar output where 4-1 give much better mid/high end power, whereas 4-2-1 is generally smoother & steady output system. I going to work with 4-2-1 and show u my dyno chart once its done. And the follow up action will be having catcon & decat comparison. Have a good day.

so should be good if 4-2-1 with stock size piping? apa stock size piping?

with stock piping not so worst.. mostly none or 1-2% hardly will feel it...  ori pipping size around 1.6" iinm

but prefer sifu comment i juz base on my car setup and feel...

Good info there.
You can retain the stock piping since what we mostly done is light mod so the stock piping size is adequate.

Just to add on what david mentioned, some ask how is 4-2-1 behave in highway speed...From me using it I feel no lost in power even staying at 5000rpm. The choices of whether to go 4-1 or 4-2-1 is personal preferences and overall you are just shifting the power curve along the RPM range as what david's post has shown with the 2 EG. It's either your peak power comes early or later in the RPM range. Just like how people put in adjustable cam pulley with stock camshaft. You are just changing the power curve as you adjust the opening timing of the valves and be reminded that your opening lift degree is still the same.

Based on both comments, besok change 4-2-1 liao. 

I do highway driving to work every day, so yea, would report in next few weeks of the response.

Hold the poney just a little more while Ayam gaji not in yet. Nowadays, other than TONNKA, I haven't seen any extractor dyno result comparison before/after stock mods So, you wanna go spend money for butt dyno means go ahead

Be remind, TONNKA result I've got is also not officially from their own promotional material. I collected data from their consumer instead! So far, all boley land modder that promote their ekzos gain powah, none of them put up dyno chart komparison YET Do you believe promotional results from manufacturer? Or believe in consumer before/after dyno feedback

went for serviced yesterday , cannot change spark plug lor, spark coil stuck wei four of them stuck, mechanic oso ask me whether want to cont or not, i dare not to gamble later four of em patah susah la..btw my mileage at 60k km, tomorrow mau hntar pigi proton sc and let them wait the coil to kecut a bit..might leave car for and collect in the evening.