3.6
PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V65, Standard stock sampai tak boleh stock la
PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V65, Standard stock sampai tak boleh stock la
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Nov 5 2014, 12:13 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
3.6
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Nov 5 2014, 01:01 PM
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#2
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
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Nov 6 2014, 02:43 PM
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#3
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
V12Kompressor very pandai put me on god table mia...
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Nov 7 2014, 08:33 PM
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#4
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
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Nov 7 2014, 09:13 PM
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#5
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
QUOTE(n3w @ Nov 7 2014, 08:49 PM) The lip cost 140 included shipping. The seller is my friend from ZTH he deals in bodykit stuff. His price are good and friendly guy. If interested to find bodykit can look for him. Autobahn Ground |
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Nov 7 2014, 10:49 PM
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#6
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
QUOTE(vampirewong @ Nov 7 2014, 09:21 PM) On but city lock is like saga meh?QUOTE(Bazinga! @ Nov 7 2014, 09:54 PM) did you require the usage of a heatgun/hairdryer? I tried using heat gun but no difference one. I just trim the edges abit I didn't cut mine and the lip is a bit shirt at the end for my case la. So I just a screw it at the side and not from the wheel well.i've seen another seller also selling something like this lip, but cut in the middle to fit, den cover the cut part with sticker. |
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Nov 8 2014, 07:39 AM
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#7
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
QUOTE(THE CLASS OF 13 @ Nov 7 2014, 11:11 PM) saga mugen ftw!! lel fake jdm haha I use 7 pcs only.btw nice diy bro! how much screw you add ? » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « QUOTE(n3w @ Nov 8 2014, 12:51 AM) Side profile damn sui. Bazinga jom get this lip, find TitanRev bring him some nice food from melaka, belanja him makan get him to fix for us boleh Go find shop do la I do not really nice la. I newbie in this kind of bodykit stuff....Then set up a mugen lip saga gang. FTW! Mivec lip look like what? |
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Nov 8 2014, 10:48 AM
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#8
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
QUOTE(n3w @ Nov 8 2014, 09:41 AM) Yalo, looks great laa. Here's the link to the seller..He got FB, ZTH and LYN account...Just tell him TitanRev recommend... I asked my regular accessories shop they dont want to do for me lee. The person you got from got lowyat id? Can get from him di. https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1700669/all |
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Nov 8 2014, 01:03 PM
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#9
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
QUOTE(n3w @ Nov 8 2014, 11:01 AM) I use CSK self tapping screw stainless steel. But I drill a small hole 1st so that the screw can lock inQUOTE(wkwong91 @ Nov 8 2014, 11:24 AM) why u terasa wor. I din't mention ur name also. That's a nice lip....really mivec ka?Someone who terasa lo. Something like this iinm. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « |
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Nov 8 2014, 10:35 PM
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#10
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
QUOTE(Denise_D @ Nov 8 2014, 08:15 PM) do you mean...the brake pump for sage blm is designed in such way that when brake apply the rear take the braking the most? my other jap car Honda and Toyota..did not experience this before. always the front take the heavy braking and the rear wear is minimal. The rear braking force is less than the front and I believe what you trying to ask is "is the rear brake force the highest" The rear brake cylinder is prone to leaking due to brake dust buildup in the drum system as the brake dust has no way to escape in the drum. If you are a DiY guy you can remove the rear wheel and use a hammer to slightly hit the drum to remove it and clean up the brake its inside the drum. And also to not confuse yourself and others. Below is the correct term to used to describe the brake components Master pump - is the main pump at your engine bay that makes your brake system works. Rear brake cylinder - the brake pump at your rear drum brake that work the brake shoes. Front Brake Caliper- the caliper that works the front brake. |
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Nov 8 2014, 10:39 PM
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#11
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QUOTE(Denise_D @ Nov 8 2014, 08:59 PM) if change the master pump cylinder will correct back the issue, then I will go a head. .this is the first time I encounter this issue and I don't want to ripped off by those mechanic. typical case..after change problem still exists then suggest to change another parts...at the end..i have pay for a huge bills. To see if your rear brake pump is leaking you can check to see the drum if there's any wet spot from the center if you do see it that mean the brake pump is leaking. The leak will cause the brake fluid to leak out from the wheel stud. |
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Nov 10 2014, 11:32 AM
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#12
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
Happy Birthday David...
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Nov 10 2014, 04:50 PM
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#13
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Guys, I would like to share with you all a simple DIY to remove the rust at the front cross member behind the front bumper. In this DIY you need to remove the whole bumper assembly to have access to the rusted area.
The rust was caused by the rubbing of the bumper support against the cross member and overtime the paint and antirust gets rubbed off. During my 1st time removing the front bumper the rust was not that much but this time again I remove the front bumper the rust has gotten worse and spread to larger area so in order to remove the rust once an for all. You can do this. Removing the bumper is not a difficult task at all. Just remove all the upper radiator clip and the clip behind the no plate, the bottom bumper 10mm bolts 6 of them, then 2 more 10mm bolts at the wheel guard where the side fender meet the front bumper and the 2 plastic screw lock. After you remove the bumper you will see the cross member. The rusted part is now visible to you. This is the rusted place. ![]() Clean, sand and dry the rusted area. Then get a masking tape and mask a square around the place. ![]() After that spray the repair area with spray paint. Any colour will do since it will not be visible at all. Spray a few layers then let it dry After dry remove the masking tape. ![]() I went a step further to eliminate the chances of the rust coming back again by cutting up a piece of thin rubberish Superlon type of material to cover the painted area. I use industrial grade 3M adhesive to stick it to the cross member. ![]() After that, I use a cutter/scissors to cut back the hole that is use to secure the plastic clip behind the no plate. ![]() Finish. This problem is on my FLX so I don't know if BLM also have this problem. Some might find the rust is very small and wont bother to do it or not worth doing it. It's all up to personal decision for me its just I can't stand the sight of rust on car body. This post has been edited by TitanRev: Nov 10 2014, 04:51 PM |
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Nov 10 2014, 05:50 PM
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#14
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
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Nov 10 2014, 06:20 PM
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#15
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
QUOTE(r3apers @ Nov 10 2014, 05:52 PM) sand until rust remove enough loh....you want to sand until besi bocor ka...I use mini brush head to sand and not sand paper..cause I just want remove the rust not the still got paint area...This post has been edited by TitanRev: Nov 10 2014, 06:21 PM |
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Nov 10 2014, 07:01 PM
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#16
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QUOTE(dares @ Nov 10 2014, 06:34 PM) That's an important step to not mention leh I got mentioned just no pic only....I forgot to snap..Last time on my Waja's rusted spare wheel well I sprayed WD40 and let it soak for 5 minutes, then only start sanding off the rust. WD40 helps "loosen" the rust, makes the work easier. |
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Nov 14 2014, 06:20 PM
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#17
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 14 2014, 08:26 AM) Here's what's next. After 2 years+ of ownership with my BLM, trying so hard to improve its throttle response, now that I came to a solid conclusion after witnessing several GaGa in the attempt of "increase horse power" on a dyno machine. Good info there. The stock 4-1 manifold is indeed too short before hitting the catcon. Hence exhaust flow was blocked due to conflict of cylinder purge. Anyone who change their exhaust manifold to after market performance extractor will indeed restore some horse power, we're looking @ about 5-10 wheel horse power! If u have an idea of tuning a normal aspirated engine, each wheel horse power gain is a thousand dollar investment! Have seen most if not all Campro S4PE running on standard extractor below 80whp, some worst below 70whp. Whereas many other S4PE who replaced their extractor to after market had a significant power restored to 80 & above. So far the highest power dyno output I've seen is 95.5whp & 95whp. Both of them are our forum member. When u ask for decat, the 1st thing in mind is environment & polution. Frankly, I do not encourage removal of catcon. So my next big thing is, after installation of after market performance extractor, I'm going to put back a catcon to see how much power loss after the 5-10whp restoration. If after catcon can still bring me back to 80whp region, I'm more than happy to keep it that way as a tree hugger. Finally, the significant of 4-2-1 & 4-1 extractor. Sadly, what I believed all these while was partially untruth & no opportunity to make comparison between the 2 evil on a same car(who would wanna have 2 sets of extractor on a same car just to dyno for the truth). Anyway, some comparison was done between similar layout of vehicle with similar mods has been done. So here's the truth, 2 B16A was tested on the same day. Specimen A) HKS green mushroom with Spoon sausage intake ram, Mugen 4-1, hotbits bullet, 2" piping & Spoon S-flow, yielded 142whp with drastic jump on vtec opening on stock ECU. Specimen B) Spoon sport drop in filter, TODA 4-2-1, hotbits bullet, 2" piping & Fujitsubo chambered muffler, yielded 143whp with slightly smoother vetc opening on stock ECU. I have no picture to show u as owners preferred stay anonymous for their security reasons. Anyways, the comparison between the 2 EGs are on the same dyno platform. The result shown 4-1 extractor has less initial power output due to conflict of exhaust purge I believe. However, once rpm raise to 4k, torque curve for 4-1 improved significantly better than 4-2-1 due to straight output with less joints. Whilst 4-2-1 slowly catching up by 6krpm, both car show similar power curve 1 stays @ 142, another @ 143. I wouldn't know whether the chambered muffler has restricted exhaust flow from 4-2-1 or the Spoon S-flow helps on the big jump of vtec gain for 4-1 extractor. My conclusion is, either way they should yield similar output where 4-1 give much better mid/high end power, whereas 4-2-1 is generally smoother & steady output system. I going to work with 4-2-1 and show u my dyno chart once its done. And the follow up action will be having catcon & decat comparison. Have a good day. QUOTE(iskazulka @ Nov 14 2014, 04:48 PM) You can retain the stock piping since what we mostly done is light mod so the stock piping size is adequate. Just to add on what david mentioned, some ask how is 4-2-1 behave in highway speed...From me using it I feel no lost in power even staying at 5000rpm. The choices of whether to go 4-1 or 4-2-1 is personal preferences and overall you are just shifting the power curve along the RPM range as what david's post has shown with the 2 EG. It's either your peak power comes early or later in the RPM range. Just like how people put in adjustable cam pulley with stock camshaft. You are just changing the power curve as you adjust the opening timing of the valves and be reminded that your opening lift degree is still the same. |
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Nov 18 2014, 01:26 PM
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#18
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9 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
Hahahah that monkey
This post has been edited by TitanRev: Nov 18 2014, 01:27 PM |
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Nov 20 2014, 12:55 PM
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#19
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I'm also using 97....
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Nov 20 2014, 01:07 PM
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#20
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