Good morning evelibodi

I was shitting, suddenly notification cum

i would say the early bird gets the worm, but in your case the early bird drops yesterday's worm first.

I usually wake up @ 5, then prepare my protein shakes, boil water make milk for kids. Once gaodim, check forum abit, play Ice Age. About 6 need to drop a few pounds & shower liao. So basically its the same routine on weekdays Dotter skol starts @ 7:15, so no choice lar gotta leave home 6:45 due to trafuk kondisen despite only 2km away

i think normal geh if u send to SC go 80K service + transmission oil + timing belt. cvt oil + cvt filter already cost around rm435. timing belt change at SC also around rm600. not include FEAD belt. brake pad change at SC also more expensive.
can cut cost if do it bawah pokok workshop, especially for the timing belt & brake pad change.

This post has been edited by iskazulka: Nov 14 2014, 08:24 AM

Here's what's next. After 2 years+ of ownership with my BLM, trying so hard to improve its throttle response, now that I came to a solid conclusion after witnessing several GaGa in the attempt of "increase horse power" on a dyno machine.

The stock 4-1 manifold is indeed too short before hitting the catcon. Hence exhaust flow was blocked due to conflict of cylinder purge. Anyone who change their exhaust manifold to after market performance extractor will indeed restore some horse power, we're looking @ about 5-10 wheel horse power! If u have an idea of tuning a normal aspirated engine, each wheel horse power gain is a thousand dollar investment! Have seen most if not all Campro S4PE running on standard extractor below 80whp, some worst below 70whp. Whereas many other S4PE who replaced their extractor to after market had a significant power restored to 80 & above. So far the highest power dyno output I've seen is 95.5whp & 95whp. Both of them are our forum member.

When u ask for decat, the 1st thing in mind is environment & polution. Frankly, I do not encourage removal of catcon. So my next big thing is, after installation of after market performance extractor, I'm going to put back a catcon to see how much power loss after the 5-10whp restoration. If after catcon can still bring me back to 80whp region, I'm more than happy to keep it that way as a tree hugger.

Finally, the significant of 4-2-1 & 4-1 extractor. Sadly, what I believed all these while was partially untruth & no opportunity to make comparison between the 2 evil on a same car(who would wanna have 2 sets of extractor on a same car just to dyno for the truth). Anyway, some comparison was done between similar layout of vehicle with similar mods has been done. So here's the truth, 2 B16A was tested on the same day.

Specimen A) HKS green mushroom with Spoon sausage intake ram, Mugen 4-1, hotbits bullet, 2" piping & Spoon S-flow, yielded 142whp with drastic jump on vtec opening on stock ECU.

Specimen B) Spoon sport drop in filter, TODA 4-2-1, hotbits bullet, 2" piping & Fujitsubo chambered muffler, yielded 143whp with slightly smoother vetc opening on stock ECU.

I have no picture to show u as owners preferred stay anonymous for their security reasons. Anyways, the comparison between the 2 EGs are on the same dyno platform. The result shown 4-1 extractor has less initial power output due to conflict of exhaust purge I believe. However, once rpm raise to 4k, torque curve for 4-1 improved significantly better than 4-2-1 due to straight output with less joints. Whilst 4-2-1 slowly catching up by 6krpm, both car show similar power curve 1 stays @ 142, another @ 143. I wouldn't know whether the chambered muffler has restricted exhaust flow from 4-2-1 or the Spoon S-flow helps on the big jump of vtec gain for 4-1 extractor.

My conclusion is, either way they should yield similar output where 4-1 give much better mid/high end power, whereas 4-2-1 is generally smoother & steady output system. I going to work with 4-2-1 and show u my dyno chart once its done. And the follow up action will be having catcon & decat comparison. Have a good day.

unker david rekomen

Hi all sifu here, my saga fl unable to start up (without crank) even after jump start. Before I connect the jump start cable horn wasn't loud, after connected everything horn, headlamp everything is fine but it won't start just with the sound 'click click'.
Just wonder what's wrong, starter or battery dead..

dares you remember last time unker davidke20 after shitting got brilliant idea about ular oren...
just use your imagination at your own risk.

This post has been edited by iskazulka: Nov 14 2014, 08:38 AM

ur car saga fl, so, battery already surface pass at least 2 years i guess (my fl ady 3+ years change batter last year)
looks like your battery kong ady. jumps car should ok already.
u jumps start with what car? if jump start with kancil car sure cannot jump start liao. should use 300amp lorry/truck jumper cable.
can try disconnecting & reconnecting the battery connector first.
try to use other battery first to confirm.
if cannot can call auto assist if you have one OR call bawah pokok mechanic if available.
if around keramat, can help you but later in evening la.

This post has been edited by iskazulka: Nov 14 2014, 08:44 AM

Whoah

whoah Lexus Dragon.

But I changed battery before, which on last year August..
well I jump start with Mitsubishi triton, should be powerful enough right? Also the cable I am using is thick one not like those sell in hyper market..
I tried numerous times d, still cannot..
is it safe to use a 2.0cc car battery to test?

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iinm triton use N70 battery ( i just hack into triton thread ).. saga N60. dunno saga can support.
maybe try other jumper cable as the cable rosaked perhaps?
btw what brand battery u use?
iinm ur battery last 1 year ady. considered lucky if can last more than that.

or maybe immobilizer rosaked perhaps?
try using other spare keys?

This post has been edited by iskazulka: Nov 14 2014, 09:57 AM

saga using n60 ? just check my bonnet , size 45 i see?

IINM, the FEAD was around 300++. I'll need to double check the receipt when I get back to KL. Will post that up when i get it.

Mine is auto gearbox so no cvt oil and filter. I remember last time the estimation for 80K service was about 800 - 1K. Maybe it did not include the belt, I guess.

FEAD belt was around 300++. Brake pads was about 140++ I think. I'll post up the details next weekend when I get back to KL.

That's great insight. Looking forward to your findings. I always thought though, the general rule of thumb is that 4-1 is for absolute high end, while 4-2-1 was for better mid range.

btw, u use fully syn EO + change FEAD belt + brake pad. so not get chopped liao.
you should have expected/known earlier before send in for service.

for poorfag like me, i'll be performing them separately in different time, not lumpsum sekali semua.
btw, my service intervals became rojak.

This post has been edited by iskazulka: Dec 3 2014, 12:34 PM

and early bird Bazinga! gets the (yesterday's) worm.

Father's life

Great insight story!

Say if midbox change to bullet or retain it if I follow 4-2-1 path? Maybe maintain stock piping je.