Sounded like wiper blade hardened. Use pencil lead to brush is meant for carbon clear the rough surface. Technically, if your blade is hardened, it doesn't help either. Few things you can do trying to improve the situation

1) Use rain repellent on your windscreen. This will reduce usage of wiper when small rain
2) Get experienced accessories shop help you adjust the wiper arm spring so it doesn't press the wiper blade too hard
3) Take care of what kind of windscreen washer additive. Some cheap stuff will degrade your wiper blade faster

Regardless how many months old ur kar is, wiper blade can be crap as usual. Also subjected to how often do you wash car and the road you're using everyday. Like my case often travel around Dengkil/Banting, chances of sticking dust and sand on the windscreen is much likely to make the wiper blade juddering. If the windscreen scratched, nothing much can be done other than use fine grinding sand to remove the scratches or change new windscreen. For my case, not applicable lar. Takkan nak every few months change windscreen

ayam against it as usual, but that's an OPTION

He's capable of DIY, hence I'm not strongly against it. When u know what you've put under the glass, you're more confident in getting it changed. On the other hand, professional auto glass shop in OZ is much more professional than u & I can imagined, they don't charge premium for no reasons. Things that I've seen different, below P represent Professional; B represents local Banggalah job:

P: wear glove all time to prevent thumb print. Prints will oxidize adhensive
B: they don't even use condom

P: uses a glass rope saw to saw off the original glass from the urethane bond, reduce chances of glass debris fall into aircond vent/dashboard. Prevent harming the metal surface of A pillar.
B: hammer to smashed on the damaged glass. Grinder to remove urethane bond. I leave u to imagine what happened to the frame area on A pillar

P: anti rust primer is reapplied on the frame, adhensive bond cure mixture will also applied on the new glass before apply of adhensive
B: usually they will ask u back, what is primer?

P: uses urethane adhensive that require 3-6hours of minimum cure time
B: aircond/silicone glue that does not cure forever. Those are not bond, those are sealant for christ sake!

P: provide product & service warranty
B: also provide warranty, only if your glass got leaking during pouring rain. They'll stick more glue on the leaking area

As long u know what u are doing, replacement windshield can be as good as factory bond. Only thing is, the pressure of robotic arm installation may not be applied. Could pressed too hard lossing adhensive that gets squeezed out; or pressed too mild that the adhensive didn't get spread across the entire contact surface.

Disc wear @ minimal after 3 months coming to 4, include trackday event


Pad balance


No shim, hence noisy

wankel this is my GCT

Pls remove all add on/modifications from your vehicle. Send it back to Plotong get them to diagnose for u & get it repair immediately under warranty(if u r still entitled). If no moar warranty, and if u stay in klang valley, do come to TT this Friday for me to diagnose further.

Bai VIOS Vios no such issue

7:30 is entrance open
9pm usually the 1st participant arrive

I tot u is cainis ady know the rules

bcoz VIOS no plobrem. Been in the market for donkey years, still few tered oni. This GaGa, been in market for few years nia ady V65, can't imagine how much plobrem we got

That 1 never fail

If all the above, then need to check the adhesive they use whether its silicone or urethane. Other than that, the curing primer is very important. If not, despite it's urethane, the windscreen will still get blasted off whilst the adhesive gets stuck somewhere else. It doesn't bond between the windshield glass ON the urethane, then ON the A-pillar frame.

I'm not saying they don't. I just not can be sure whether it's properly done. Neither can they assure you factory bond quality.

I don't own a CVT, but driven enough modded CVTs to comment.

1) Hotbits 4-1 manifold decat, other untouched. City driving RPM below 2.5k slightly lack of power. Feels like need to press more than only will move. However, when floor the throttle, RPM raise quite fast. Once hit 6krpm, sprint like no tomolo. Higher fuel consumption on city driving, but improved mileage on long distance(constant speed cruising). Annoying exhaust note when maintain RPM at around 2.5krpm. Sounded like an old truck with busted exhaust pipe.

2) Fake JASMA 4-2-1 manifold, hotbits straight flow bullet + MARCO swirl flow bullet on standard piping. 1"8 tail piping with Fake SPOON S-Flow. Overall performance improved. City driving feels very light. Lightly tap the gas pedal, the car willingly to sprint. On high speed cruising, car doesn't feel like choking. Fuel consumption very close to stock setup. Exhaust note is bassy and muffled, but will emit humming sound in the vehicle when CVT puller speed matches engine RPM(meaning after you raise RPM to 4k, when speed climbed to 110kph you gradually release gas pedal to match RPM back to 2.5k, then will sound like army truck). Overall, not bad lar

3) Stock manifold remove catalyst with straight pipe, the rest standard. Better fuel consumption. No improvement on performance. Tail pipe sound like old truck with busted exhaust, just like no.1 above

4) Stock manifold, stock catalyst, RIMUS(fake REMUS)swirl flow bullet, stock piping + chopshop imported FUJITSUBO chambered muffler for Honda Integra DC2. Significant improvement on initial response. Very good for sprint. Fuel consumption improved overall. Does not smells like BBQ even long idling at porch. Exhaust noise minimal, but really sounded like imported performance vehicle. When drive past enclosed area like kapak/tunnel, the entire area will vibrate and resonating. The faster you drive, the less noise the exhaust make. It's like a magic! The only drawback with this setup is, after exceed 140kph very hard to go further. It feels like take longer time to attain faster speed after that region. Overall, this is my best choice of modification if I own a CVT.

5) Unknown brain but very shinny 4-2-1 manifold, stock midbox, fake JASMA straight flow cylinder muffler. Exhaust note very loud. I supposed there's no improvement on acceleration as I trying to time the 0-100kph sprint, it looks the same or negligible micro seconds difference only. The thing I don't like is, gas pedal feels OFFSET from engine response. Higher speed cruising, the sound came but power no came. Lack of excitement in my opinion. This is the least interest in my book of mod.(Later owner went remove stock midbox replaced with swirl flow), but still I don't find it interesting anymore, may be due to my earlier bad impression. It turned out even louder than before, and worsen the already bad gas pedal feeling.

All the above 5 cars are equipped with WORKS low restriction element filter. There was an incident between the few owners, but I was not around when it happened. The few of them went TT to Bt Gajah depart from Gopeng. As they hit a long stretch of straight road, each of them darah panas pahlawan start to boil their octane in their blood stream. Whilst hitting about 160kph, a stock SV with rim kompang from behind(not from their group) tapaued them all They're all now thinking to demod back to stock liao. I don't own the car, but I like the no.4 very much if you ask me.

As for the QMAX thingy, the WTFness kinda youtube review made me decide not to comment on their professionalism anymore. Good luck if you choose to believe it's real. In the end my butt is different than yours, if you feel better, why not

Affiliated meh? Then u hd bai their fuel saver package lar. The BLM AT they use on the testimonial can hit 30km/l wei

Sounds like a go if your rear muffler is a big box that can accumulate buffer.

Wadever lar, no more extra cash to spend liao. Was going for the cap ayam CPS 4-2-1 extractor & dyno for proven result, manatau yesterday suddenly received whatsapp dari kawang ade bangku 2 bijik mau letgo. Priority goes to tempat duduk lah since my seat dah koyaks. Other than that, dah booking headunit sebab kawang demod, terpengaruh pulak mau kasi bling² sket

still, 25 is awfully alot compare to few tered. Besides, if kar no plobrem ady hepily drib out go cari makan, where got time sit here spam porum? Only buggers who always kar rosaked sent for repair, sit at worksiop nuting to do then spam porum

Your LCP plobrem dun blame pipu

350~400 region (FOR CAP AYAM THAT IS EXPANSIVE!)

http://www.mudah.my/Jasma+421+Exhaust+Extr...ro-24059231.htm

Nah

Unless I have a choice? Had to do up the chair 1st, if not kenot fetch cik



Mai kar stok bai No sound 1

Abam zul, ayam not traiing to ofens jiu, powahzone seems like a legit brand and their produck lokalais, bery down to earth. I used to drib Iswaga running on powahzone haikem + kastom sumbat SOLEX kaburetor dual barrel x 2, flaiweel masok GSR1.8 kasi skim ringan. Powah delivery cincai tapau stock 4G93. Ayam a person who bery brand sensitib mia. Klo kete lokal, beli lah performanspat lokal. JASMA is the japorn otomotib esosiasen bukan brand utk resing. Tapi cni mia sohem smua sakap itu JASMA japorn mali, aku pon dah pengsan dah. Klo aku nak brand, beli la TONNKA mia ekstrakter (tapi sudah tak juai setakat saye tau, sebab dah kotrek OEM bagi R3).

So, jiu r not wrong either way. Lantak la camane die desain, in the end it's a kampro. Tak mod takpe, skali mod nanti terjangki pulak

Other than the dyno roller sound I didn't hear other stuff. But if you refer to the high pitch cling sound, is that 1 u call it supercas sound? More like busted tensioner bearing to me Which I just got them replaced last Friday




Hang ade singgah sane ke? Besok TT?

Swirler(or some branded it as cycl0ne) on the intake is rubbish if talk about performance, it basically create more restriction to air flow(take note the swirl flow did produce speed and rearrange the flow). On a wide open throttle situation, the swirl leafs is there to rearranging the airflow into swirl pattern, as a result the effect will only came in AFTER you lift your gas pedal(when the throttlebody is fully shut) But again, when it's shut, flow is blocked, why do I need swirls? Regardless, it has it's function, if there's a swirler in the intake system, initially it create restriction(when flow hits the swirl fins), but as you attained speed and start cruising(where throttle were lightly opened to conserve fuel), at this time the swirl flow will assist to suck more air into the system. Rearrangement of the air flow will not create too much of a restriction anymore. Theoretically, it can help on reducing fuel consumption as well, but I don't have a figure for it. If any of us demanding performance, that swirler will put the figure down on a wheel dyno. Same goes to exhaust swirl flow bullets.



A small experiment conducted sometimes ago with my lil gurl. Can clearly see the swirl flow evacuated at much higher speed compare to free flow. That however, if you take account on the time taken to spin the flow up, in actual fact the free flow would have completed the test much earlier