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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V65, Standard stock sampai tak boleh stock la

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davidke20
post Dec 4 2014, 07:13 PM

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QUOTE(justinskj @ Dec 4 2014, 06:21 PM)
i just changed to 10w 30 semi syn, toyota oil. LOL.

will my engine kong?
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Hooorrr!!!!!! U dai lor. U dunno our injin is Hongda injin ka? Pakai VTEK mia mar. Jiu use jor Toyol oil now ar, tibai da kar performance will bkam rike

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davidke20
post Dec 4 2014, 08:59 PM

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QUOTE(athrunzaru @ Dec 4 2014, 08:21 PM)
like this eh?  biggrin.gif [attachmentid=4245439]
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That's not even a GaGa sleep.gif
davidke20
post Dec 4 2014, 10:26 PM

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QUOTE(athrunzaru @ Dec 4 2014, 09:39 PM)
2 years on stock tyre. havent change since i got the car. ganas indeed  brows.gif
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My 1994 Ganjil 660 had its stock tayar on for 7 years, until 2001, 1 of the explode, 2 pregnant whistling.gif I told the tayar gai change the affected oni, leave the 1 there I wangto see when it will explode laugh.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 06:39 AM

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sweat.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 08:14 AM

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QUOTE(n3w @ Dec 5 2014, 07:55 AM)
Waja taxi steel rims flex.gif
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Wajunk kenot fit. If can fit I early ady fit 9 jor. Soli to said, it's bery hard to find 15" steel rim for PCD100. Once I found a PCD100 steel rim from Langcer GSR, the tibai fella demand me RM600 for that set doh.gif Again later I found anor set from ForkPiesta, kena deman RM400 also shakehead.gif C'mon lar, it's a blardy steel rim.

Other than all this, you may try your luck source from chop shop if they got impork Yaris Sedan(our local Vios) low spec, yes that 1 also PCD100 15" steel rim. But so far I haven't get any luck trying.
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 10:09 AM

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QUOTE(mieza @ Dec 5 2014, 09:13 AM)
My top speed is 160km/hr and than CVT warning light menyala wooo.. So I only drive around 140km/hr.. Don't why like this..

What brand is good for brake pad? Someone quote me below price for front both side:

60-70 for fbk.
95 for metal king
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Bendix GCT. Will eat disc, but not as bad as metal king. But pls no FBK tengkiu, eat disc and bad bite, very fast fade yawn.gif Otherwise, stick to OEM.

On the side note, I tot u work with safety awareness related job? whistling.gif ONLY DRIVE AROUND 140kph hmm.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 10:14 AM

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QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 5 2014, 09:44 AM)
Depends on what you regard as good in brakes. Some like brakes that will be fade free for lap after lap on a racetrack, myself I so rarely use brakes that I'd prefer something cheap that will sacrifice itself in order to spare the rotor from wear.
Pity you didn't ask next week, I've ordered a set not listed for the FLX that I suspect will be fine but without the expensive tang wear marker, but won't be able to confirm until they arrive.
I'd love to find a road I can stretch the legs of Daisy on but in our heavily policed nation speed limits are a fact of life, you've made me curious about the speed warning, now I must find a quiet back road, though if I'm caught at that speed it'd mean loss of licence for 6 months and a ~MYR2500 fine. I sure wish we had a Genting highland racetrack like I see on youtube.
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Dude you're getting good at understanding Malay language laugh.gif

IT's not that we don't have enforcement, but we know exactly where are the traps

IT's not that OZ can't do crazy stuff, but ur government already iron it out with proper/designated speedways

It's not that OZ people don't speed, but u guys got more conscious about road safety

I heard the road to Outback is exactly the heaven for performance vehicle, some local even calls it OZ version Autobahn. Doubt that there's many petrol cars around that route whistling.gif

Correct me if I'm wrong brows.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 10:49 AM

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QUOTE(mieza @ Dec 5 2014, 10:21 AM)
OEM is what brand? Bendix GCT  rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif  so which one is good  rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif

You still remembered haha.. Yes safety and manage the risk when speeding lol  sweat.gif
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Gooding to the max. Can look for nestum for further detail. If in Shah Alam/Klang can look for mahihi. And if in Puchong, can also look for kenjilew ask for member price. I got mine outside, RM90 include installation.

OEM means Plotong original by BOSCH. Price around RM60 iinm.
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 11:52 AM

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QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 5 2014, 11:05 AM)
I wish I could emigrate now, Bendix pads for FLX here on ebay are AU$75 or so, or about a million Ringits.
You lot live in a dream country for servicing, I simply don't trust our shops, invariably they will find an excuse to machine brake rotors and charge marginally less for grinding the service life away from the rotor than a new pair of rotors will cost. All part of the reason I do all my own work.
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Lemme know if you need it and or put on the list of "to buy". PM me your address, I'll check on the local shipping cost and goods at local price, see whether can send them over is economically efficient. Believe that 75 bucks could be the shipping cost, the pads are actually FREE laugh.gif Agreed on not trusting your local mechs. Heard a friend in Sydney got his car in the service bay for normal oil change that cost a thousand dollars doh.gif

FYI, the stock disc rotor is only about RM150, about slightly less than AU$50? laugh.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(blau-saga @ Dec 5 2014, 11:22 AM)
I hv experience with Bendix GCT, can't stand screeching sound when braking, used only around 5 mth, now still have it in storage

Pros
-less brake dust > clean rim
-better bite than stock > more spirited driving

Cons
-need few bites from cold disc to perform at best
-somehow screeching sound didn't disappear after lots of driving, even after skimmed the disc

now back to oem proton original brake pad, sufficient for me
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Are you sure it's GCT? Not Metal King? hmm.gif I have absofuckinglutely no screeching noise issue unless I put the car in track for 15 minutes straight. The GCT simply can't cope with racing event as it gets faded and have screeching sound AFTER being heated up badly, provided my kinda driving always practice super late braking(I think spectator would think I'm going to ram on tyre wall) laugh.gif That however, when the berak gets cool down, it will behave normally again nod.gif

The only drawback, despite GCT claim they doesn't grind disc as bad, but after using it for few weeks I already can feel there's a thin layer of the disc surface being laid. I would take this problem and continue using GCT until the disc start to warp and replace rotor whenever needs.
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 02:10 PM

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QUOTE(dagreatdzul @ Dec 5 2014, 12:19 PM)
Bendix GCT? never use b4. been using Bendix Metalking all since 2011 no problemm.
daily driving or on track. Price also affordable..hehe
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Abang aku komplen makan disc ler. Dah tukak disc BiBa die skang pakei balek P2 oem pad laugh.gif Aku pon dgr member BLM cerite grind disc. Bile ake tgk, mmg tercalar2 sad.gif Tp sebenarnyer hor, BLM aku dulu pakei stock pad 2 taun pon dah tercalar2 doh.gif so lantak lah pakei jer walau ade jugak orang komplen GCT makan disc icon_idea.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 02:18 PM

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QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 5 2014, 12:30 PM)
Thanks for the warning, you pretty well have described the brake issue that has confused and cost people a fortune here.
From what I've gathered from information on-line so called warping is actually depositing of brake pad material on the rotor, something that the on car brake lathes used way excessively here won't fix. A good break in of new pads may prevent this, which I believe is three very hard almost stops from high speed, making sure you don't come to an actual stop before accelerating again, this will hopefully take care of the stuff that transfers from the pad to the rotor and sets to a very hard product. For me after your words of experience I'll just avoid GCT pads.
Actual warping of disc rotors is very rare and is used as an excuse too often, if the rotors have had that depositing commonly thought of as warping then removing them and planing on a fancy flatbed grinder may fix them, but with our labour costs rather astronomical it makes sense to buy new ones and find another use for the old ones like door stop.
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Well, my original idea wasn't meant to confuse u sweat.gif For Malaysian, getting the disc laid will only cost RM35/side(probably A$20/pair) in this country. That however, doesn't cure the issue over the long run as the disc thickness is 19mm if I'm not mistaken. So for me, I'd take the pros of the efficiency(due to metal compound, which will cost the disc surface) then holding back with the stock rotor.

Your case, will be different as u've mentioned. I believe the original Plotong or BOSCH OEM will be good enough, since changing the disc will costs u a bomb laugh.gif But I'm serious if u're gonna buy anything & u find it cheap here, I'll take the initiative to help u up if needed icon_idea.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 02:34 PM

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QUOTE(mingwei1992 @ Dec 5 2014, 02:25 PM)
Hi guys,
maybe planning to get a saga flx se(my 1st car).
any problems about the car?
any advice? thank you
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Bai Vios plis flex.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 03:08 PM

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QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 5 2014, 02:52 PM)
Thanks for the help though I'm not spending for a while yet, I just did the 1000 km first oil change on Wednesday. I put in some semi-synthetic 10W-30 because economy is important to me. I suspect I may source an air filter element when needed from there but that's way in the future.
I ordered a new set of brake pads out of curiosity as much as any other reason, I prefer cheap type pads that those of a performance mindset sneer at but replacement pads for a BLM/FLX here are rare and priced accordingly with no real choices except high priced pads, I've ordered a set for another car that I hope are the same pattern (but lack the squealer tang) and if OK will report the result here to add to a knowledge base. Part of the reason is also on the belief they won't wear the rotor as much as the stock pads.

The profiteering of our dealership service departments should be a good source for world scandal, I was just thinking of my mate whose dealership charged him AU$25.30 for two CR-2032 batteries for his car's remote control, plus labour, but the service had $700 of that involved anyway. Unlike me he was quite happy to pay it.
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http://www.lelong.com.my/proton-saga-blm-g...5-01-Sale-P.htm

RM16 for air filter whistling.gif

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-x-Li-ion-3V-CR20...=item58b813edf3

U$0.99 for 2032 battery x 5 units whistling.gif

http://www.mudah.my/AR+Racing+Disc+Rotor+P...3771.htm?last=1

RM130/disc whistling.gif

http://www.lelong.com.my/proton-saga-blm-c...5-06-Sale-P.htm

RM52 for brake pads - BOSCH yo whistling.gif

Am seriously thinking to migrate to Oz and open a workshop there now hmm.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 03:17 PM

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QUOTE(DonMe @ Dec 5 2014, 12:52 PM)
Serious?! Service cost thousand plus?!
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We're in the blessing in disguised cuntry, where labor work is consider dirt cheap compare to other country. A close friend live in Phoenix Arizona, his son drove in to a huge pod of water puddle with cold air intake, result in hydrolocking the 4B11. Sent for quotation from Mishi, the job bill cost them U$8000+ laugh.gif Ended up he ordered overhaul kit from ebay, had them shipped over and did his own overhauling job in his very own garage, which cost him less than $1k.

And yes, the fella in Sydney had his car sent in for ordinary servicing. Ended up just like our local people getting slaughtered by the service centre. I can't remember the breakdown of his bill, but I can faintly recall that 1/2 the bill was from the engine oil(recycling used oil is charged under a different column!), air filter, cleaning of dead cats corpses in the fender, aircon servicing(also charged a huge portion by recycling his used gas and refrigerant oil). Another 1/2 the bill was labor cost brows.gif Oh there's another column, the car actually require to rent a service bay. Usage of hoist will be charged separately as well doh.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 03:39 PM

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QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 5 2014, 03:16 PM)
I've only had mine 3 months now so naturally don't really have anything to report. Since buying Daisy I've spent many hours seeking tales of woe but the FLX does appear fairly stable.
The main issue I've noted is the rear brake knocking noise which may just be annoying rather than a real failure, naturally I haven't had that problem yet but I have suspicions a build up of brake dust may be involved.
Earlier campro engines seem to have had numerous crankshaft breakages if it's a manual and driven by potential F1 drivers, I suppose that means every single male under 20 y/o, but dropping the clutch at redline was a sure path to tears, though Proton may have modified the crank.
Mine is a CVT and it's beautifully suited to my generally sedate style, those who have the mixed fortune of still having some youth will very likely find a manual a better proposition.
Unless you have ice in your blood you will unplug the alarm these cars are cursed with.
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Dude,

The drum brake issue has been highlighted to Plotong many times. According to NON-officials, there was a transition between supplier. Original 1st batch S16(the BLMs and FL) doesn't have the knocking sound issue from the brake. But later version of FLX(after changed of supplier) having this crap. According to the NON-officials, he saw the factory moving the molds to the new supplier(which is next door only, different company but politically connected), half of the molds were not properly handled as a result like 50% of the end product of the brake hub was oval shaped laugh.gif It's safe to said, about 75% of FLXs having the same knocking sound following their drum brakes. Some 1 side will make sound, some both. Had a minor group of lucky fellas managed to grab a GaGa with both side hub is properly assembled and well shaped. Technically as you said, it wouldn't really affect the braking ability, it's just that when the uneven surface create friction with the brake shoes will result in pulsating knocking sound. I have 1 of this baby running everyday, until 1 day the rear spindle gave up and whole brake hub and the wheel fly away whistling.gif

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After I replaced the whole rear braking system and bearings upgraded to FLX(unfortunately the good old BLM version of drum brake is no longer in the market), guess what. The moment I reverse my car out of the service bay, it went "tak tak tak tak tak" doh.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(nestum @ Dec 5 2014, 03:12 PM)
come come....honda city steel rim !!!
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He's the guy who bought my rim, before I buy the Hongda Shitty rim from you lar sleep.gif Tibai got steel rim 15" PCD100 no sell to me. I got ask u wor before I put my hands on the Shitty rims vmad.gif

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davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 03:48 PM

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QUOTE(blau-saga @ Dec 5 2014, 03:31 PM)
Yeah GCT, bought around rm80, in 2013 iinm. Now I remember when u mention faded brake, my gct also got few times experience this, after spirited drive and heavy breaking. Maybe my driving style at that time quite harsh and keeps the brake hot, thus screeching

the bosch pad is it any worth for oem replacement? no side effect noise etc?
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Same thing from Plotong original. Lots of brake dust, gets fade easily(if GCT fails you, this 1 sure will kill you). Consider disc friendly due to low metal compound. For normal drive, it's suffice. Occasional spirited driving also no problem. Just be very careful when doing Genting DONWHILL taugeh. I think before you reach Chin Swee temple ady start to smoke if you hit 80kph downhill on that road(that is provided if your're using TibaiStone M3 and still surviving due to your marvelous driving skill)
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 03:50 PM

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QUOTE(nestum @ Dec 5 2014, 03:46 PM)
new honda shitty and jazz low spec ma....now only come trade what...lol
cry.gif  cry.gif  cry.gif
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Can wasap foto for me ar hmm.gif How much u willing to take back my Shitty rims hmm.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2014, 09:51 PM

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QUOTE(THE CLASS OF 13 @ Dec 5 2014, 05:25 PM)
mine flx so far rear drum brake no noise..clocking almosy 70k km..touchwood haha
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When u get the car it doesn't came "packaged" with it, then it will never appear. Until:

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