QUOTE(justinskj @ Dec 4 2014, 06:21 PM)

Hooorrr!!!!!! U dai lor. U dunno our injin is Hongda injin ka? Pakai VTEK mia mar. Jiu use jor Toyol oil now ar, tibai da kar performance will bkam rike

PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V65, Standard stock sampai tak boleh stock la
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Dec 4 2014, 07:13 PM
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#121
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
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Dec 4 2014, 08:59 PM
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#122
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
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Dec 4 2014, 10:26 PM
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#123
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(athrunzaru @ Dec 4 2014, 09:39 PM) My 1994 Ganjil 660 had its stock tayar on for 7 years, until 2001, 1 of the explode, 2 pregnant |
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Dec 5 2014, 06:39 AM
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#124
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
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Dec 5 2014, 08:14 AM
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#125
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(n3w @ Dec 5 2014, 07:55 AM) Wajunk kenot fit. If can fit I early ady fit 9 jor. Soli to said, it's bery hard to find 15" steel rim for PCD100. Once I found a PCD100 steel rim from Langcer GSR, the tibai fella demand me RM600 for that set Other than all this, you may try your luck source from chop shop if they got impork Yaris Sedan(our local Vios) low spec, yes that 1 also PCD100 15" steel rim. But so far I haven't get any luck trying. |
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Dec 5 2014, 10:09 AM
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#126
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(mieza @ Dec 5 2014, 09:13 AM) My top speed is 160km/hr and than CVT warning light menyala wooo.. So I only drive around 140km/hr.. Don't why like this.. Bendix GCT. Will eat disc, but not as bad as metal king. But pls no FBK tengkiu, eat disc and bad bite, very fast fade What brand is good for brake pad? Someone quote me below price for front both side: 60-70 for fbk. 95 for metal king On the side note, I tot u work with safety awareness related job? |
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Dec 5 2014, 10:14 AM
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#127
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 5 2014, 09:44 AM) Depends on what you regard as good in brakes. Some like brakes that will be fade free for lap after lap on a racetrack, myself I so rarely use brakes that I'd prefer something cheap that will sacrifice itself in order to spare the rotor from wear. Dude you're getting good at understanding Malay language Pity you didn't ask next week, I've ordered a set not listed for the FLX that I suspect will be fine but without the expensive tang wear marker, but won't be able to confirm until they arrive. I'd love to find a road I can stretch the legs of Daisy on but in our heavily policed nation speed limits are a fact of life, you've made me curious about the speed warning, now I must find a quiet back road, though if I'm caught at that speed it'd mean loss of licence for 6 months and a ~MYR2500 fine. I sure wish we had a Genting highland racetrack like I see on youtube. IT's not that we don't have enforcement, but we know exactly where are the traps IT's not that OZ can't do crazy stuff, but ur government already iron it out with proper/designated speedways It's not that OZ people don't speed, but u guys got more conscious about road safety I heard the road to Outback is exactly the heaven for performance vehicle, some local even calls it OZ version Autobahn. Doubt that there's many petrol cars around that route Correct me if I'm wrong |
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Dec 5 2014, 10:49 AM
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#128
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(mieza @ Dec 5 2014, 10:21 AM) OEM is what brand? Bendix GCT You still remembered haha.. Yes safety and manage the risk when speeding lol ![]() ![]() Gooding to the max. Can look for nestum for further detail. If in Shah Alam/Klang can look for mahihi. And if in Puchong, can also look for kenjilew ask for member price. I got mine outside, RM90 include installation. OEM means Plotong original by BOSCH. Price around RM60 iinm. |
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Dec 5 2014, 11:52 AM
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#129
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 5 2014, 11:05 AM) I wish I could emigrate now, Bendix pads for FLX here on ebay are AU$75 or so, or about a million Ringits. Lemme know if you need it and or put on the list of "to buy". PM me your address, I'll check on the local shipping cost and goods at local price, see whether can send them over is economically efficient. Believe that 75 bucks could be the shipping cost, the pads are actually FREE You lot live in a dream country for servicing, I simply don't trust our shops, invariably they will find an excuse to machine brake rotors and charge marginally less for grinding the service life away from the rotor than a new pair of rotors will cost. All part of the reason I do all my own work. FYI, the stock disc rotor is only about RM150, about slightly less than AU$50? |
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Dec 5 2014, 11:58 AM
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#130
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(blau-saga @ Dec 5 2014, 11:22 AM) I hv experience with Bendix GCT, can't stand screeching sound when braking, used only around 5 mth, now still have it in storage Are you sure it's GCT? Not Metal King? Pros -less brake dust > clean rim -better bite than stock > more spirited driving Cons -need few bites from cold disc to perform at best -somehow screeching sound didn't disappear after lots of driving, even after skimmed the disc now back to oem proton original brake pad, sufficient for me The only drawback, despite GCT claim they doesn't grind disc as bad, but after using it for few weeks I already can feel there's a thin layer of the disc surface being laid. I would take this problem and continue using GCT until the disc start to warp and replace rotor whenever needs. |
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Dec 5 2014, 02:10 PM
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#131
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(dagreatdzul @ Dec 5 2014, 12:19 PM) Bendix GCT? never use b4. been using Bendix Metalking all since 2011 no problemm. Abang aku komplen makan disc ler. Dah tukak disc BiBa die skang pakei balek P2 oem pad daily driving or on track. Price also affordable..hehe |
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Dec 5 2014, 02:18 PM
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#132
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 5 2014, 12:30 PM) Thanks for the warning, you pretty well have described the brake issue that has confused and cost people a fortune here. Well, my original idea wasn't meant to confuse u From what I've gathered from information on-line so called warping is actually depositing of brake pad material on the rotor, something that the on car brake lathes used way excessively here won't fix. A good break in of new pads may prevent this, which I believe is three very hard almost stops from high speed, making sure you don't come to an actual stop before accelerating again, this will hopefully take care of the stuff that transfers from the pad to the rotor and sets to a very hard product. For me after your words of experience I'll just avoid GCT pads. Actual warping of disc rotors is very rare and is used as an excuse too often, if the rotors have had that depositing commonly thought of as warping then removing them and planing on a fancy flatbed grinder may fix them, but with our labour costs rather astronomical it makes sense to buy new ones and find another use for the old ones like door stop. Your case, will be different as u've mentioned. I believe the original Plotong or BOSCH OEM will be good enough, since changing the disc will costs u a bomb |
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Dec 5 2014, 02:34 PM
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#133
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
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Dec 5 2014, 03:08 PM
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#134
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 5 2014, 02:52 PM) Thanks for the help though I'm not spending for a while yet, I just did the 1000 km first oil change on Wednesday. I put in some semi-synthetic 10W-30 because economy is important to me. I suspect I may source an air filter element when needed from there but that's way in the future. http://www.lelong.com.my/proton-saga-blm-g...5-01-Sale-P.htmI ordered a new set of brake pads out of curiosity as much as any other reason, I prefer cheap type pads that those of a performance mindset sneer at but replacement pads for a BLM/FLX here are rare and priced accordingly with no real choices except high priced pads, I've ordered a set for another car that I hope are the same pattern (but lack the squealer tang) and if OK will report the result here to add to a knowledge base. Part of the reason is also on the belief they won't wear the rotor as much as the stock pads. The profiteering of our dealership service departments should be a good source for world scandal, I was just thinking of my mate whose dealership charged him AU$25.30 for two CR-2032 batteries for his car's remote control, plus labour, but the service had $700 of that involved anyway. Unlike me he was quite happy to pay it. RM16 for air filter http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-x-Li-ion-3V-CR20...=item58b813edf3 U$0.99 for 2032 battery x 5 units http://www.mudah.my/AR+Racing+Disc+Rotor+P...3771.htm?last=1 RM130/disc http://www.lelong.com.my/proton-saga-blm-c...5-06-Sale-P.htm RM52 for brake pads - BOSCH yo Am seriously thinking to migrate to Oz and open a workshop there now |
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Dec 5 2014, 03:17 PM
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#135
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(DonMe @ Dec 5 2014, 12:52 PM) We're in the blessing in disguised cuntry, where labor work is consider dirt cheap compare to other country. A close friend live in Phoenix Arizona, his son drove in to a huge pod of water puddle with cold air intake, result in hydrolocking the 4B11. Sent for quotation from Mishi, the job bill cost them U$8000+ And yes, the fella in Sydney had his car sent in for ordinary servicing. Ended up just like our local people getting slaughtered by the service centre. I can't remember the breakdown of his bill, but I can faintly recall that 1/2 the bill was from the engine oil(recycling used oil is charged under a different column!), air filter, cleaning of dead cats corpses in the fender, aircon servicing(also charged a huge portion by recycling his used gas and refrigerant oil). Another 1/2 the bill was labor cost |
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Dec 5 2014, 03:39 PM
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#136
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 5 2014, 03:16 PM) I've only had mine 3 months now so naturally don't really have anything to report. Since buying Daisy I've spent many hours seeking tales of woe but the FLX does appear fairly stable. Dude,The main issue I've noted is the rear brake knocking noise which may just be annoying rather than a real failure, naturally I haven't had that problem yet but I have suspicions a build up of brake dust may be involved. Earlier campro engines seem to have had numerous crankshaft breakages if it's a manual and driven by potential F1 drivers, I suppose that means every single male under 20 y/o, but dropping the clutch at redline was a sure path to tears, though Proton may have modified the crank. Mine is a CVT and it's beautifully suited to my generally sedate style, those who have the mixed fortune of still having some youth will very likely find a manual a better proposition. Unless you have ice in your blood you will unplug the alarm these cars are cursed with. The drum brake issue has been highlighted to Plotong many times. According to NON-officials, there was a transition between supplier. Original 1st batch S16(the BLMs and FL) doesn't have the knocking sound issue from the brake. But later version of FLX(after changed of supplier) having this crap. According to the NON-officials, he saw the factory moving the molds to the new supplier(which is next door only, different company but politically connected), half of the molds were not properly handled as a result like 50% of the end product of the brake hub was oval shaped ![]() ![]() After I replaced the whole rear braking system and bearings upgraded to FLX(unfortunately the good old BLM version of drum brake is no longer in the market), guess what. The moment I reverse my car out of the service bay, it went "tak tak tak tak tak" |
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Dec 5 2014, 03:41 PM
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#137
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
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Dec 5 2014, 03:48 PM
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#138
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(blau-saga @ Dec 5 2014, 03:31 PM) Yeah GCT, bought around rm80, in 2013 iinm. Now I remember when u mention faded brake, my gct also got few times experience this, after spirited drive and heavy breaking. Maybe my driving style at that time quite harsh and keeps the brake hot, thus screeching Same thing from Plotong original. Lots of brake dust, gets fade easily(if GCT fails you, this 1 sure will kill you). Consider disc friendly due to low metal compound. For normal drive, it's suffice. Occasional spirited driving also no problem. Just be very careful when doing Genting DONWHILL taugeh. I think before you reach Chin Swee temple ady start to smoke if you hit 80kph downhill on that road(that is provided if your're using TibaiStone M3 and still surviving due to your marvelous driving skill)the bosch pad is it any worth for oem replacement? no side effect noise etc? |
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Dec 5 2014, 03:50 PM
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#139
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
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Dec 5 2014, 09:51 PM
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#140
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
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