Calling all bro and sifu...

Anyone using 205/55/16 with stock rim? It seem it will get hit with fender when over 140km/j ...

Is the size or my absorber / spring issue?

smaller wooo. how to hit fender

My brother using this size with Eagle D5. Nothing happen pun.

what rim are u on ?
and the offset ?

stock rim, over 150km/h will sound like something trap
the sound like ... tap..tap..tap..tap... until I slow down to 120km/h

or is because I didn't do the alignment? The shop only sell tyre no alignment services

Ya, but now 4 people or even myself only will sound like that after 140km/h over any bump / small hole

Thanks bro for the info

eh no la... just followed a red lighting firefly trail only.
nzh0920

honestly i'm not familiar at the road at all and i'm generally bad at directions

most of the corners have signs and i have high beams on; Speed wasn't really that fast on my end (eventually firefly also gone from my sights lol) since i'm not familiar and i am struggling on the new tire/grip/setup

lols thought you going to makan rumput at 0:48 there.. you real dahsyat running up to 150kmh at single lane hilly road in almostcompletely pitch dark!!

your updated UI is much better than last time haha. and i actually wouldn't bother to put GPS speed and GPS Speed different there because GPS's speed is not really that consistent. it may be more accurate at telling the actual speed you're going, but maybe only 50% of the time it is telling correctly. furthermore, what we, the driver's eye are seeing, is the speedo meter. so it makes more sense when other people (drivers) are watching the video. i think la..

also can throw in Timing advance to see your engine is advancing or retarding.. also throw in fuel flow to see how much fuel you're burning. my preference la. the Torque and HP, those are calculative one right? meaning it only based on the acceleration it detected and your vehicle weight right? btw the AFR there is the measured or commanded? also, can throw in Relative Throttle Position beside the Relative Acc Pedal Position. because our engine is drive by wire right, you fully press pedal not necessary means that the ECU want to fully open throttle lols. paisehh so much request hahaha.

and btw, your engine still very cold lols.
make sure you torque pro your next sepang occasion..

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Sep 8 2014, 12:18 AM

i'm on high beam bro, but yes all standard lamp/bulb

my stock cc5 205/60/16 with stock rim and stock absorber/spring setup all no issue.
change RCS also no issue.

so with this criteria, most likely need to check your absorber/spring (again assuming you still on stock rims)

yes, I am on stock rims, front kena feder (suspect)

and just got a credit card fraud case with me... WTF... Ambank didn't ask for TAC for the transaction in Russia and charge to my account... and said already charged although I call them immediate I received SMS

sorry to hear that, hope the bank gets it sorted out bro

well the reason i have gps speed on is because different wheel overall diameter would slightly affect meter outcome. Not to mention it is known that our meter will be slightly faster as an added buffer/tolerance. (eg: you're under speed trap/limit yet you still get a ticket, in usa, Mitsubishi would be dealing with lawsuits lol)
but yea, it is quite clear when gps reception (very cloudy/too much interference/trees etc) is affected the difference gets glaringly obvious (gps being awfully slower)

And yea thanks for the tips, i actually gone through your video a few more times and had timing advance added as well, short term fuel trim, and engine load.

yes torque/hp are calculated via vehicle speed (iinm gps and obd together? lol) and input vehicle weight (i keyed in 1400 when the vehicle is about 1360 including driver - myself)
The values are still pretty inflated so i got it removed in the end.
basically had voltage/engine vacuum/hp/torque removed as it was lagging at some points while i was test recording with the newer UI at mrr2 just now lol.

AFR is commanded (hence a c)
I still need it to roughly gauge if my engine is knocking or not.
The car's remapped mappings lowest afr value is not lower than 12.5, so anything under, it's a clear sign the engine knocked/overheat/triggered something that required to detune itself (be it afr/ignition timing)

as for throttle, i find it not necessary as from my observation since i gotten the obd is that the throttle is fairly responsive according to my pedal input. not to mention it's never going to go 100% open anyways, it seems to have a slight closed incline for some reason that i do not know. (likewise it won't ever fully close 0% so the engine won't stall lol)

i merely had relative accelerator pedal added so i can gauge my own driving depending on the video. something like how you see on F1 on tv, where you get to see the driver's accelerator/brake inputs
so i can sorta self study on specific corners, like if i should ease up on the throttle more, or should i go heavier on the throttle and so on.

believe me the engine bay is hot as hell. i suppose the coolant temp is colder with the huge ass dual fan radiator, not to mention high speed at night time would mean lots of cold air ram effect to further cool everything down.
hopefully things stay the same during Sepang
and yes definitely will be running torque pro track recorder too

btw have you ever had your UI reset before? i had that happened once and it was a huge pain in the ass to set it back again

sorry to hear that bro, good luck to u

Version 65! Congratulation...

Morning all

You're early, Soni. Good morning! And to everyone too...

This post has been edited by San.Diego: Sep 8 2014, 06:12 AM

looks like me, sounds like me, but its not me

Thanks Bro

Just FYI, the process was as easy as 123

Replace in less than 10 min I think and damage only RM20 including a new nut

That why lala are cheapskate


Btw, there was also a Myvi changing the screw also, big process, have to dissemble the whole thing out and then only can knock the screw out ...

That Myvi came first, how ever when I left there still half way only

Lol good for u
Workshop know what to do and have all tools

Rm20 is cheapjing

oppss yep totally forgot ofcourse you've different tyre diameter than the stock.. Ad-08R eh? but anyway, in torque pro you can adjust the speed (OBD) reading one. in vehicle profile, you can set multiplier to the OBD speed. 1.0 for original, less than 1 if you have smaller tyre, more than 1 if bigger tyre. set to 2.0 and you can cheat everybody thinking that you're going at 300kmh lols. generally, if your tyre overall diameter is 5% bigger than stock, then the multiplier should be 1.05.

the torque and HP reading for us normally ppl we will never know if it is calculated correctly, unless we run it on dyno and try to calibrate (changing vehicle weight, the only thing we can change) to match dyno lols. so i would say good that you removed it lols. the Volt reading is useful as daily monitoring, when sepanging, not too important i think.

the accelerator reading, yup understand what you mean wanna learn from your own driving. but too bad torque pro don't have brake pedal reading! haha. and also the limit of bluetooth obd connection, the reading is always like 1-2 sec lagging behind.

i never had my UI reset yet. but these days i seldom plug in my obd bluetooth already, because i found out it somehow mess up with my gearbox. it would cause my gear box sometime drop from 4th to 3rd gear running at any speed 80kmh above, then change back to 4th gear. so i can't really plug it in there full time.