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 Car Care and Detailing [V4], Caring for your car apprearance

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TSKrisMas
post Sep 30 2014, 06:15 AM

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QUOTE(iamsobloodysick @ Sep 29 2014, 08:18 PM)
dodo juice red mist tropical or supernatural red mist? i cant see supernatural red mist product though.

i used red mist before, it causes the surface very dirty, the mist contains oily ingredient.
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Sorry, my bad. Red Mist isn't under their Supernatural line. I'm using the 'original' one...the 'flamable', not the 'tropical' version. Yes, it's 'oily' and, like other natural waxes, it has the tendency of retaining dirt after a while if not washed regularly. But the slickness, gloss, depth and beading is second to none, so far as those that i've tried la. Absolutely love the look of it on my dark coloured car.
TSKrisMas
post Sep 30 2014, 08:51 AM

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QUOTE(iamsobloodysick @ Sep 30 2014, 07:59 AM)
If apply on dark colour car ok la.....if on white / silver car, so terrible dirty eh..
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Concur on that. Not too suitable for light/white coloured car. For those, sealant type sprays are better.
TSKrisMas
post Sep 30 2014, 03:49 PM

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QUOTE(roxx @ Sep 30 2014, 03:40 PM)
I was about to buy cquartz from one of LYN here (am at penang right now) and later after reading AG some of the forumers unable to complete whole car with 30ml.. Any sifu here can confirmed on that?
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I don't recommend CQuartz....a PITA to apply, especially if you're new to coating. CQuartz UK is ok but not CQuartz.
TSKrisMas
post Sep 30 2014, 06:43 PM

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QUOTE(ZeroSP @ Sep 30 2014, 05:03 PM)
Just visited Sonax, they are shifting within the week to USJ area.
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Oh? Didn't know that. Thanks for the info.

QUOTE(ZeroSP @ Sep 30 2014, 05:05 PM)
CQUK to go. Last time I was lucky to get it BOGO from Autogeek. Sold off all 3 packs in a flash, kept 1 to try.

But man... I don't like the application process. But then, the CarPro suede application method is good if not the best, I used it to apply whatever coating till now.
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Does the CQUK gets tacky/sticky when you're applying? Normal CQ always do that to me and a bit difficult to get the timing right for levelling/buffing. Just couldn't make it work...still got an unopened bottle of it around somewhere. Got them dirt cheap frm Ultimateshine before the 'other guy' took over....
TSKrisMas
post Oct 8 2014, 11:06 AM

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QUOTE(shaniandras2787 @ Oct 7 2014, 01:49 PM)
In any event, I just went back to the detailers and they agreed to fix it for me. They also agreed that there were holograms and hazing and it is most probably due to the part where they did not clean up the wax properly or something in between was not done "cleanly". However, instead of suggesting "4 layer polishing" as the treatment, they told me that they will redo the entire "2 layer polishing" and it does not require any "4 layer polishing" because at the very beginning, the polishing was 2 layer therefore the hologram and hazing effect did not penetrate any deeper than that.

Can anyone verify that for me?
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Sorry for what happened to you....but what they're telling you is TOTAL BS.
TSKrisMas
post Oct 8 2014, 07:33 PM

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QUOTE(shaniandras2787 @ Oct 8 2014, 06:11 PM)
I just went for a 3rd opinion from a reputable detailer and a paint gauge was used to measure how thick my car paint still is. Different numbers appeared on different panels though. On the front hood, it measures out bebtween 87-88 whilst the door panels measured up between 95-99.

The detailer told me that Honda paints should be at the original 110 or 120 then again, he also told me that since Honda paints are "soft", generally "compound polishing" is not recommended because the paint will wear off very quickly compared to Toyota. Supercars measured up to 240 =O

I couldn't remembered very well how much microns will be shaved off in a layer of polish, was it 0.5 or 0.05. not quite sure but 0.5 seems more probably because in a compound polishing (ie. 3 polishes 1 wax = 3 x 0.5 = 1.5). 0.05 seems a little bit to dreamy.
Yeah, I'm going to have all these fixed this coming Saturday and this time from a reputable detailer. Will post pictures once it's done =(
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Ouch....those readings are already on the low sides. Hopefully the damages aren't that severe and doens't need to take more of the paint off to correct. Polishing shouldn't take more than 0.5 micron off, but it all depends on how 'deep' those scratches are (yes, holograms are also a form of scratches). Looks like the previous 'detailer' took lots of the paint off. Was it that bad that your car previously required that much of compounding?
TSKrisMas
post Oct 9 2014, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(shaniandras2787 @ Oct 8 2014, 09:31 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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Looking back at the pics, a 2-steps polishing sounds more likely as compared to 4-steps. And, judging from the way you described, the '3rd detailer' sounds like he means *serious* business, especially when you mentioned he did (and showed you) a test spots in front of you. Let me have a wild guess here, Maximus will charge you RM300 and deliver your car in 3 ~ 4hrs and this 3rd guy would take longer....maybe 6 ~ 8hrs...right? In my personal opinion and without knowing the details, the 3rd guy sounds like he's more passionate and concern about how your car would turn out. Anyway, you've met both and you should be better in judging their characters. Personally, RM600 sounds like the more reasonable price for a good quality details.

Good luck and hope you get everything sorted out.
TSKrisMas
post Oct 9 2014, 09:39 AM

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QUOTE(shaniandras2787 @ Oct 9 2014, 09:12 AM)
There's one conflicting point here though, Maximus told me that the original detailer hurt the paint during the polishing state however the 3rd detailer told me it's actually not that serious. Those "hologram" marks were actually not "hologram" marks but of "marks" from improper polishing. At this juncture, I'm taking the 3rd detailers word because he did showed me the removal of the marks without actually going through all 4 layers.
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I think both are *somewhat* correct. Those does look like buffer trails from improper polishing or low quality workmanship. It can be loosely described as hologram, but 'improper polishing' or buffer trails would be a more precise description. Now it's really sounding like your car would be in good hands if you decide to go for the 3rd detailer....
TSKrisMas
post Oct 9 2014, 10:09 AM

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QUOTE(shaniandras2787 @ Oct 9 2014, 09:39 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Not just Honda paint, that's a good advice and it should be like that for any car. If you really take the necessary steps to take good care of the paint, chances are (barring 'accidental' damages) you won't need to do any corrective polishing for quite some times.

Now, time to learn to take care of the paint and the first step is the most essential one and also the most likely time swirls/damages are likely to occur - CLEANING, WASHING and DRYING. 2nd step is to learn how to properly WAX your car, which you'd most probably would need to do if you're going for the normal wax/sealant. From the look of it, the '3rd detailer' should be able to give you more details on these two and, furthermore, easier for a two-way advice/discussion since he'll be in front of you instead of in front of a computer screen.... tongue.gif tongue.gif
TSKrisMas
post Oct 9 2014, 10:17 AM

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QUOTE(thom_chai @ Oct 9 2014, 10:09 AM)
To all Rupes Bigfoot owner here, what pads do you all use for polishing? Rupes one or Lake Country?
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Any pads would do as long as it's the right size (just a tiny weeny bit larger than the backing plate) and the foam is firm enough (made for DA use). Preference would be (if you can source for and can afford them), of course, the Rupes pads because of it's shape. I have one Buff and Shine pad loaned to me by VX55, still haven't had the time to try it but it looks (and was told that) very promising. Any particular LC pads that you're referring to?
TSKrisMas
post Oct 9 2014, 11:11 AM

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QUOTE(thom_chai @ Oct 9 2014, 10:41 AM)
Thanks for the insight as always. Let's say for LHR21, what is the stock BP size? LC pads like the normal flat or CCS type, suitable for it?
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A good read and more details on the sizes HERE.

I'm not very fond of the CCS and prefer the flats (personal preference), or more particularly, the one with the hole in the middle. But for some reason, some of my flat pads (LC & Megs) became a little bit curved/convex in the middle after some use with my LHR15....maybe because they're not specifically meant to be use with a large orbit/throw DA. But the one with the hole in the middle was still able to maintain it's flatness. Also note that I'm talking about the one with the rounded edges (meant for use with a rotary) cuz I don't have the 'normal' flat LC pads (with the sharp-cut edges) so can't say how those would do on the Bigfoot. Maybe others would chime in on that one. Or, better still, go ask Hendry at Osren cuz he's more knowledgeable with all the LC pads.

So far for me, on my LHR15, I prefer the Rupes and Sonax pads (pending tests with the Buff & Shine pad tongue.gif ).
TSKrisMas
post Oct 9 2014, 01:09 PM

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QUOTE(thom_chai @ Oct 9 2014, 11:28 AM)
Cool cool, let's say if I wanted to get only ONE bigfoot, would LHR15 be a good choice? Since i got plenty of 5.5" flat and ccs now.
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Since you've already got the 5.5" pads, and if you don't want to spend more on getting new pads, then the natural choice would be the LHR15. OR, you can get the LHR21 and buy an extra LHR15 backing plate so that you can still utilise the bigger throw AND use your existing pads tongue.gif

But, saying that, here's my personal feeling. I actually had the opportunity to try both the LHR21 and LHR15 before getting one. No doubt the LHR21 has larger throw, more cutting power, uses larger pad so can cover larger area faster, but I don't see it giving ME any discernible advantages as I'm just going to use it for my personal use and on my own cars (or maybe once in a blue moon on other cars). Even with a rotary, I rather like to use smaller pads and take my own sweet time to do a detail. I've no regrets deciding to go for the LHR15 and I would consider it as the better choice FOR ME.
TSKrisMas
post Oct 9 2014, 01:10 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 9 2014, 01:07 PM)
for flat panels yeah.
the irony is that the rupes stock pads were supposed to me more balanced, however i find the lc/bns pads to be easier/less vibrations.
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.....because they're softer.... tongue.gif
TSKrisMas
post Oct 9 2014, 01:55 PM

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QUOTE(thom_chai @ Oct 9 2014, 01:45 PM)
Ah I see I see, luckily all of my pads are of LC hahaha.
Even with 15mm throw, it's still rather insane and can cover much bigger area than a normal DA. The machine size for both the LHR15 and LHR21 is the same is it?

Btw, what's the throw of the Flex 3401 VRG do you know? And one more thing I've been wondering for quite some time, what's the allen key for at the head of the buffer?
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A little bit of difference in the control module and counter-balance, other than that, same machine.

Flex DA only has an 8mm throw/orbit, but it has more grunt than 'normal' DA due to the forced rotation.

The allen key at the head of the Bigfoot is for removing/attaching the backing plate.
TSKrisMas
post Oct 9 2014, 09:35 PM

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QUOTE(Bigboyz @ Oct 9 2014, 08:17 PM)
Anyone can share where can I buy sand paper, mirka/3m or those suitable for car paint around pj?
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Try calling up Mirka supplier here:
Mirka Abrasives Syaqis Trading
11, Jalan Rasmi 6,
Taman Rasmi Jaya, Ampang,
68000 Ampang, Selangor
+60 12-303 7204
TSKrisMas
post Oct 11 2014, 12:57 PM

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roxx, year and made of the car?
TSKrisMas
post Oct 15 2014, 06:37 PM

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OOiii....what's all this PM PM ah? This is not a sale thread. If you want to promo then put up the price here la....so that everybody else can also see (AND BUY) your racun....HAHAHAHA.... icon_idea.gif icon_idea.gif icon_idea.gif
TSKrisMas
post Oct 17 2014, 05:19 PM

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QUOTE(LCTho85 @ Oct 17 2014, 03:07 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Tell us more. We're talking about the front windscreen right? Troubleshooting time....

- White dots as in white in colour or translucent white? Like those sand blasting kind of white.
- Are they quite uniformly distributed or just here and there?
- Can you scrape it off with your fingernail?
- Have you put on anything on the windscreen? Like RainX or something.
- Have you polished the windscreen before? If so with what product?
- How old is the car and do you frequent highways at high speed?
- Can you see those dots from the inside? If you do, are they white or darker colour?
TSKrisMas
post Oct 17 2014, 09:55 PM

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QUOTE(LCTho85 @ Oct 17 2014, 07:53 PM)
Thanks for the feedback and suggestions, guys!

KrisMas: Now that you've asked those questions, I'm not exactly sure....but I'll check them out tomorrow morning. Hope it's not a serious problem. And no, I can't scrape them off with my nails.  sad.gif
I did put Glaco on the windscreen after washing it....but I didn't clay the surface before applying tha Glaco liquid.
I don't drive fast most of the time. In fact, this is the only car in my home having this problem....and it is the only car I tried to wash and wax, myself. ><
Oh, and I just got the car last month....2nd hand car from 2009. Not sure what the previous owners did to the windscreen, but I don't remember seeing the white dots until after I tried washing the car.
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I'll just do some guesswork here until you have a good look at it again. But, my best guess is, those are pin holes size pitting caused by small grits, most probably sand particles, frm frequent high speed driving (highway, etc). I'm also guessing that the Glaco u're using is either acidic (which in actual fact not a bad thing and normal for a windscreen cleaner/protectant) and reacted with the laminated glass or some sort of polish that left some residue inside those 'pin holes'. You might not have noticed it before this because those pittings are 'empty' but now, since it's 'filled' with something they became more obvious. Check frm inside, up close, it would look something like minute stone chip, darker since the whitish stain are only on the outer top surface. 'Speed Hunters' should be quite familiar with this....what say you Quazacolt?
TSKrisMas
post Oct 17 2014, 10:01 PM

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QUOTE(adrian0229 @ Oct 17 2014, 09:54 PM)
sorry guys..i m new to car detailing. may i know how good is the detailing n polish that purchased at groupon?
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I don't think many of us here would trust any groupon offer for detailing jobs. Actually, it's not about the quality of the detail, it's the price that's been offered. Think of it this way, for example, how can anybody do a good job at more than half of the actual price....??? Something's wrong somewhere....
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