I got the Rupes only...no package no nothing...just the machine in the box together with backing plate and other basic accessories. Price...errr....add another RM100 to the standard package....and replace the '2' in front with '1'....

To put it simply...a good quality coating is just like a good quality wax. The only difference is you don't need to reapply every few months or so. The rest of the maintenance parts are the same, and I have to stress, you'd still need to do proper MAINTENANCE, as if you're using normal wax...except for the re-applying part la. Neglect that, you'd be better off not applying anything on.....

Can't comment on the rest of your questions cuz I do everything myself......

Haiya....suddenly somebody ask ma....my Rupes more than (or around) 2 yrs old already....

Get from SG....should be, more or less, around RM1700.

EXBRITE Stones Private Limited....official dealer for Flextools Singapore. Already bought twice from them, for a couple of friends. Didn't cost me more than RM1700 even after GST (Singapore).

GEX 270AE is the old model, superseded by the GEX125AE. Except for the shape and ergonomics, not much difference between the two in term of performance. For <RM500, not many choices out there unless you're looking for 'clones', which I think not worth it.

My last gallon is bought quite a few years back....maybe 2 or 3 years back....maybe more. Still looks the same. But haven't used it for quite a while though. Also still have some of the 1st version....orangy/yellowish colour one. Looks fine too.

Partially agree....in a way...rotary will be able to do corrections QUICKER. With the right pad and compound, even the Bosch ROB can do corrections....albeit in LONGER TIME. Well....ok....you're right. Better corrective performance with a rotary....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Dec 3 2014, 10:01 PM

.....leave overnight and buff off next day.....with a damp cloth....

Means it's not properly dried yet or ready to be buff off. Had the same experience once too. Got fed up and told myself I'd try/re-do again the next day. Next morning....late morning...it buffed off with ease with only a couple of swipes with a ww drying cloth. Next round I tried again applying in the evening and leave it overnight, able to get better durability and water beads flew off faster too. Been doing it like that ever since.

Sorry for the late reply.

Haven't tried (nor heard of) any other quick detailer that can clean as good or better than UQD/M135 other than DDJ Red Mist (original version....not the Tropical version). And talking about solvent, DDJ RM is FLAMABLE!!!

Anyway, if you're looking for something that's a good cleaner (like UQD), you can't really expect it not to have any effect on existing LSP (unless the LSP is a coating)...especially in our kind of dirty environment. I'd rather let the QD remove the contaminated layer of LSP rather than sealing the dirt between it.....

Ermm....actually....yes...when I received my 1st bottle a few years back....with a lighter....it.s like having a small flame thrower....

There's normal QD and there's UQD. Normal QD just cleans but UQD also contains 'beading booster'. Doesn't last as long....maybe only a wash or two. But it can do one heck of a cleaning and can even clean those that can't be clean by normal wash. Dirt stain or marks....no problem. I've seen it turned a yellowish white coloured myvi to *almost* its original white....

Oh....the Mother's is more like UQW or OCWax....it's a spray wax and not technically a QD.

UQW is cheaper? Well....maybe cheaper 'per bottle'.....but check out the size/volume....

Nope. It's RTU (Ready To Use).

Huh? *scratch head*

Errr...windscreen? Glass? If they're 'scratches/wiper trails' I don't think you would be able to polish them off by hand. You'd need some serious machine, pads and compound to remove scratches on glass. But if they're just 'scuff marks' left behind by the wipers, you might just be able to remove them with some glass polish and lots and lots of 'passion' by hand.....

NOOOO!!!!! If I can only have ONE machine then it'll be a rotary. Flex DA, normal DA, Rupes, Bosch ROB, etc. they have limitations. A rotary can do *almost* everything from *very* heavy compounding to the most delicate finishing. And, pair it with the right backing plate and pads, would be able to reach all those small, intricate and difficult to reach areas/panels.

I know the owner personally. Trustworthy.

A few drops of dishwashing detergent inside a standard sprayer bottle (1L), a soft bristle brush (shoe brush) for general areas and a soft bristle toothbrush for those difficult to reach spots, a pail of water with a couple of microfibre cloth for rinsing (wipe), a couple more mf cloth for wiping dry, and any branded and good quality interior protectant to dress them up when u've finished cleaning.

Looks nice...very pro looking. Ooops....is that Rupes banner on the wall of what (to me) looks like a detailing centre?

OID is good stuff. Want better beading and durability? Add a little bit of OCWax into it....

How do you keep your car in good running conditions? With PROPER maintenance using PROPER products and PROPER method. Same goes with keeping your car's appearance. Before that, please take note, there is NO WAY to PREVENT swirls and marring from forming, but what we can do (with proper maintenance) is to MINIMIZE them from re-occuring. The risks of causing swirl is there the moment you touch the paintwork with something.

Now, first thing I would advice is to concentrate on your washing and drying, both on the techniques and products, especially the wash mitt/media and drying cloth. These two contribute THE MOST for self-inflicted swirls and marring. You can spend a whole day polishing and waxing your car's paint to perfection and in less than half an hour (send to 'bangla wash') and all your hard work will go down the drain. Remember, when you're washing your car you're actually REMOVING all those contaminant/grit from the surface of the paint and transfering them ONTO the wash mitt. Therefore, most importantly, you DO NOT let that wash mitt with those swirl-inducing-grits touch your car again BEFORE they are released/removed from the wash mitt. Same goes with the drying process, you're WIPING the paint with a drying cloth so you'd need to make sure that you MINIMIZE any chance of dragging any leftover grits across the paintwork. For both, there are quite a variety of methods/techniques...there's actually no right or wrong...just use common sense. The key is STAY CLEAN.

Now, for claying. You don't really need to do it that often if you have a proper and regular maintenance (wash) schedule. I'd say once in six months would be more likely. Just 'feel' the surface of the paint and notice how 'gritty' or çoarse' it feels...just clay when you'd NEED TO and not when you WANT TO. Remember this, claying is for removal of EMBEDDED grits, it's not for removing those dirty stain/runs or the like, from the paint. Also, claying won't remove any paint but it would, like you said, cause clay-induced swirls/marring that might necessitates polishing. Oh...and if you're polishing by hand or a machine with a mild/light polish...don't worry....it'll take lots of rounds of polishing to thin the clear coat to the point where you'd need a repaint. But if you're really OCD about polishing the paint off, then back to my first suggestion, take the 'preventive actions' route and minimize the risk of causing them in the first place.

Waxing cause swirls? Again, WORK CLEAN. Contaminated applicator would cause swirls; waxing a dirty surface would cause swirls; using a contaminated cloth when buffing would cause swirls; etc...etc. Swirls are caused by dragging grits across the surface of the paint. Minimize that and you'd minimize causing them swirls.....

Ragards.

I haven't touch a clay bar in over a year already.......