Bro, paint scraped off already. Forget about compounding. Want to touchup...go straight to sandpaper & then use the touch up paint. Good luck.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Oct 20 2014, 11:58 AM

Looks like 'pinholes'....


Wipe with damp cloth. Want more power, just add a teeny weeny bit APC or dish washing detergent into the water then wipe again with damp cloth to 'rinse'. More stubborn one, can use a soft bristle brush or shoe brush. Remember put on some sort of dressing/protectant later on if you're using APC or dish washing detergent...those non-greasy type so that your hand wont slip.

Bad news bro, only way to fix that is to strip everything down to bare metal/plastic and repaint. It's on my Waja paint as well...on the front bonnet and rear boot. Initially they weren't there. But after a few rounds of compounding and polishing more and more started to appear, ie. the more the clear coat is taken off the more they appear. I don't know how or why they appear but my painter said can't do anything. I've tried sanding but no go.

All the machines mentioned are OEM frm China....none of them 'manufacture' any of their own machines....even their previous versions....

Interested about this as well. Haven't had any decent success with any method so far......

Yours is clear, mine is luminuous yellow.
Yours is Xtreme Cleaner Plus, mine is Xtream Cleaner Full Effect.
Yours is pH neutral, mine is....errr...not pH neutral (can't remember)
Yours smells like piss, mine smells like rotten egg.
Both are RTU and don't do too well when diluted.
...errmm....that's about all i can remember....

Not just your car's colour code, also need to match the age of the paint. You see, colour pigment in paint will change over time, due to exposure to sun, uv, etc. Paint shop will note the car's colour code and use it as the reference/base, then they would work frm there to match it. That's why, to get the best matching colour, better go to a paint supplier rather than using those off-the-shelf touch up paint, especially if your car isn't 'brand new'. Even on brand new cars, different batch (frm the factory) might not even have a perfect color match.....

You mean how much pressure on the pad for applying wax? I'll rate the pressure as 1 la. Just enough to keep the face of the applicator pad flat and, sort of, 'glide' it on the surface.

You'd probably need to remove some, if not all of the previous wax before applying a new layer. First of all, the layer might already be contaminated and secondly, you'd get better durability with the new layer if applied on clean surface. Depending on what wax/sealant you're using, most off-the-shelves wax/sealant already contain slight cleaner so you can just re-wax straight away. But I do suggest you use a dedicated pre-wax cleaner or an AIO (All In One - polish, clean & wax).

Looks like minute 'sand chips' to me too....

Not too sure, but Autobacs Klang got many different types selling. Don't know if they have those you're looking for. Might go there this week but not sure which day yet. If urgent then you could ask them in their fb page.

Call for one la.....

TT normally at night ma....cannot see....hahaha....

efaceninja , I think this question better go to MyWifeCar ....he expert in this....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Nov 9 2014, 06:55 AM

scoutfai, some information can only be released upon 'personal' visits...with all the 'competitions' around, I can't blame them for being a little cautious when divulging information.

Forget about OptiCoat or CQuartz....if you want to DIY the 'idiot proof' way is 22ple VX1 Signature Glass Coat (Unless you can get hold of OptiCoat Pro or CQuartz Fines)....MUAHAHAHAHA.....

Haiya...paiseh la. But, with the number of wheels you currently have, why not just get a bottle so can coat all of them? Already got a local agent so easy to buy ma.....

I'll tell the guy you're looking for him.....

Hey, even local off the shelf retail price is cheaper. And one of the kakis is selling his HD Wax + HD Cleanser for RM450 only....that is if you're interested la. But, honestly for me, either way at those price I'd rather go with DDJ Supernatural....

I don't have many paste wax (oh....HD wax should be in paste form btw), but my best experience is with Megs M16. Not sure if the newer waxes now can give better durability....haven't tried any new ones for ages.

Frm my understanding, Soft99 Meta Clean is not a proper wax, it's a 'cleaner wax' - more of a cleaner and only contains a little bit of wax, hence the short durability. You should try one of their waxes (normally in flat metal can and in paste form).

I've only cleaned headliner twice in my life. You'd need to use a foaming fabric cleaner, those that comes in aerosol can. A soft bristle brush (like shoe brush) can come in handy. But don't scrub too hard, just lightly agitate. Do multiple applications on spots that are diificult to come off, and expect some that woukdn't come off at all. Tiring & neck breaking work though.....

I went for the LHR15E mainly because my elbow just couldn't tolerate the vibration that a DA produced. Before I got the Bigfoot, i've been finishing with a rotary and always wanted to get a DA for those one-step light corrections or 'deep' cleaning maintenance job, which are really more often required to be done as compared to deeper corrections. A one-step light corrections or 'deep cleaning' requires more concentrations and care with a rotary, and some times quite time consuming and, as you said, a little 'slack' and you'd risk getting hologrammes.

When I bought the Bigfoot, I was able to achieve *almost* the same level of light corrections and holo-free finish in lesser time, and also less stressing. I believe a DA can also achieve this cuz I did, once in a while, borrowed one specifically for these 'maintenance' job. But, like I said, what put me off frm purchasing one is its vibration....and oh...the level of noise it created (due to the vibration) on flat, hollow panels. I believe the bigfoot can achieve more cut than a DA or at least, achieve the same cut in a shorter time. Like ZeroSP said, it would be able to 'steal' a little bit of a rotary's job during those times when you'd need that extra little bit of cut but don't want to two-step with a rotary.

Last but not least, remember what I said about the disadvantage of the bigfoot - it cannot take smaller 'spot' pads but a DA can. But for those, i've no problem using the rotary with spot pads, even on soft paints.