Ya...but dunno there is different so much. haha... thanks ya..if can i will get the 70D also. U know 70D announced on what year?

Phone Camera can meh?????

This post has been edited by munak991: Nov 13 2014, 04:26 PM

Can, but since it's touch screen you can set your AF point at anywhere.
But if your phone has shutter button, you can half press it to focus and then recompose your shoot.

cannot, only video recorder can,im using Note 2

a quick google would give you every info about the 70d

You can try and download an app called Open Camera from the Google Play store which can give you more manual controls over your camera.

LOL tried, and damn nice, blurry background with rule of third position
AE lock but dont have AF-L On

That one u have to switch the focus to manual mode

Aaaanyway back to topic... err what's the topic again?

6D + 24-70mm

I am a noob in filters so have to ask sifus here, what's the difference between Kenko and Hoya? Both have Pro1D series of filters I see? (sorry if discussed before)

Hoya is sold as Kenko in Japan.
Kenko and Hoya are from the same factory/company.

Honestly nothing I'm really bothered about.

Other than the Hoya HD 77mm filter being stucked on my canon 70-200 f/2.8

They weren't kidding when they say "hardened" glass. The ring is really solid too.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 14 2014, 09:00 PM

oh I see, but Kenko filters are generally cheaper than Hoya though, was looking for CPL and ND.

thanks for the answer

Yeah, they're cheaper by a few %

Regardless, do not skimp on CPL and ND (especially ND) filters.
Quality difference is much more noticeable than a regular UV filter.

Go for B+W if possible.
Cheap/mid range ND filters can give you a colour cast.

Can't afford b+w though, kenko/hoya already around 250. yeah, I am a little worried about the color cast part. probably will go for CPL first then save slowly for the ND. about ND, why is there many different type like NDx64, NDX1000 ND800? They should be the equivalent to each other since calculations were based on stop right?

It's just some fancy numbers.
Yes, it's based on stops.
A 3 stop filter is relatively cheaper and will not degrade your quality as much as a 8 stop filter.

CPL doesn't do much. One of my most underused equipment. I would rather save the amount for a proper ND filter.
- Reflections, it removes some at some angles. I find avoiding reflections in the first place to be a lot more practical. Besides reflections can benice.
- Removes polarized light (TV screens), eh, when would I need to do this ?
- Deeper blue skies. Photoshop does this easily. I bought color efex pro 4 anyway. Might as well use it.


ND is useful. But like I said, cheap ones will give you color cast.
If you can live with it, sure. If not, you may find yourself spending more in the long run.

Also, at least a 77mm or a 82mm filter thread.
Then get step down adapters.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 14 2014, 11:45 PM

Looks like I need to try out the CPL filter to see if I really need it.

For ND, is it worth to go for more stops and sacrifice image quality? In my opinion if you go for brighter ones, you need to stop down more to achieve the desired exposure which may cause diffraction sometimes; while if you go for darker ones, you stop down less but the filter might degrades more.

About the filter size, a 77mm is very expensive for me, since I will be mostly using on my m4/3 system (largest diameter I have currently is 62mm). I might get a 10-18 or other UWA for my M in future since m4/3 UWA is really expensive compared to APSC ones. I know 77mm is very versatile for adapting on various lenses but the price is quite high

How about polarizer?

Which is best value for money and quality?

When getting an ND filter, the more stops it can go, the more flexible.
How else you're going to get the smooth long shutter during daylight ?
A low stop wouldn't do much in this case.

I once made this mistake, I've first purchased a Hoya 77mm 3 stop filter.
It was barely useful. All it did was to bring my shutter below 1/200 at 5pm so my flashes could sync.
Who cares about quality when it is barely useful in the first place.

If you intend to stop down to seconds during the day. Get the 10 stop.

Oh, for micro 4/3, forget about the 77mm limitation then.
As for price, Black Friday is coming.
Expect discounted price. I bought a 32GB 800X CF card for USD 48 including international shipping. The same card cost RM 300 in Malaysia.


Nowadays I just use a variable ND filter.
For video. To reduce shutter speed to 1/(2*camera fps).

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 15 2014, 02:20 AM

yeah, that's what in my mind too, more stops give more space to adjust the exposure.

as for 10 stop, which specific model would you recommend ( other than b+w )?

Looks like I have to get a bigger diameter one since even with m4/3 the 9-18mm lens has 72mm diameter, unless I am going to use the filter on my 12-40 only.

which website are you using? I only referred to local shops for pricing like YL.

You can try LEE filters.
However they're not cheap and they're not using the screw on filter type.
Other than that, I'm not sure. I've a Hoya 3 stop ND filter. It's ok.

For local Malaysian pricing, I refer to YL, Shashinki (those tend to be slightly pricier than street price) and another local LYN forumer site, Mauinsons.
For US pricing, Amazon since they support international shipping and I've an Amazon account.