1. Better not use instant FC as your overall FC as instant FC can vary from 0 to 30 L/100km. Proton stated 6.6L/100km as their Preve FC. So good to see that at times it can achieve that.
2. Good to know that it is not from the engine exhaust.
3. I see. I thought your RIM damage was due to unsealed road with gravels hitting the rim. I can relate to your parking incident where the rim got damaged. Preve body is wider than Wira and the driver's location is closer to the front. Thus Preve's orientation/location can be a problem when parking or turning left at a T junction. My rear left wheel hit the road concrete barrier when existing at a T junction after breakfast with my wife. Now I pay more attention and care in parking and turning left.

I think Vikneswaranc has hit the nail on the head. The light on the 3rd knob indicates that air is recirculated in the car. If the light is not on, then it indicates that air from outside is fed into the car. Thus you get the smell when you pass by that area.

Out of curiosity, I checked the engine oil dip stick to see what was the level and how clean was the oil.

a. After some 300 km, the oil is still very clean, clear and light yellowish (like urine!)
b. There is no L and H markings on the dip stick, just 2 dents near the bottom end. I assume these are the L & H markings. Surprised that the gap between the L & H is rather small, about an inch only.
c. The oil level in my Preve is about 1.5 cm above H. Overfilling with oil can cause problems and I hope the slight excess is not a problem. Air entrainment, difficulty in pumping the oil to where it is needed, etc. If you are still waiting for your 1000 km service, check your oil level and see if it is also slightly above the H marking.

Cheerio.

Also have the front and reverse cameras in my mind. Please give me some feedback after you have them for some weeks.

Thanks.

Many china made cameras available. They may work for some time but rosak after a few weeks/months. Thus like to have some feedback from users.

For reverse, why not Proton? Suprimo has reverse camera and they can install for Preve on request, I think.

Sorry to hear that.

I am one of those who try to learn from mistakes (my own and others) to avoid a repeat. Any learning tip you can share?

Many thanks.

I see. Thanks for answering my question.

Preve is too powerful for me. Just lightly on the pedal, the speed is already 80 kph.

I nearly had an accident this evening when I sent my kid for his tuition. I was looking at the durian stall along the car park and the car in front of me stopped suddenly. He stopped as the car in front of him was trying to reverse. Luckily, I was going slow and the brakes were working fine.

Cheerio.

Just transferred my NCD. What is meant by ".. need owner to settle their own"?

I see. My SA did it for me. All I need to do was to inform my first insurer to cancel (& refund me) and the second insurer will process the NCD for my new car. Should get the refund soon.

The sound and uneven feeling may be due to the airbags they installed inside the 2 front seats.

So far, I have note noticed the sound or felt unevenness on the seat. In fact, I find the seat pretty good, solid and yet comfortable. Ha.

Doing some reading to decide which engine oil to use for my first service. Now it is either Synthium 1000 or 3000.

Noted something on the effect of engine oil on the engine noise.

All PETRONAS API SM lubricants are specially formulated to meet OEM requirements, including those of hydraulic-valve engine. The most suitable lubricants viscosity SAE grade for this type of engine is SAE 15W50. [/B]The higher viscosity prevents noise at the “tappet” especially when the car is stationery. Although the noise is not harmful to the engine, it is not desirable.

See if you can notice the different engine noise when you change to a different oil grade.

Cheerio.

Sorry to hear about your Close Encounter of the RIM Kind.

New driver (P plate) with a Preve! My salute to you! I have been driving for so many years now and only now upgraded to Preve. Pai-say lah.

Cheerio.

Interesting.

The head of my service center told me this 3 steps procedure.

1 Press foot brake
2 Insert the FOB
3 Press the start button

To stop, just do the same thing but in reverse order.

Mind telling me where did you get the procedure? May need to change my procedure if mine is wrong! Ha.

Cheerio.

Many thanks to our in-house Preve expert!

I raised a few pointers a few days ago. Hope that you can help me with the remaining questions below.

(page numbers are the manual page numbers)

GG
page 142 - Where is connection 4 as shown in the diagram? I thought point 4 is the negative terminal of the car battery. That is how I have been using the jumper cable connection. Same way my Proton service guy has done for me in the past. I think this is to avoid igniting the hydrogen gas from the car battery on connecting the jumper cable. Is this 100% mandatory?

II
page 165 " Proton recommends that you rotate your tyres approximately every 20,000 km."
==> I assume that at around 40,000 km, replace all 4 tyres with new ones. Right? Of course, replace the ones with high worn out on the threads earlier if needed.

JJ
Manual states checking for water drainage after cleaning or driving in heavy rain. Cannot remember the page now. Like to know where are the drainage points that I need to check? Those small holes on the door body bottom?


Many thanks!

Thanks.

Changing tyre guideline (beside the thread thickness criterion) is like muddy water to me. Ha.

a. Tyres have shelf life of about 5 years. So don't buy tyres approaching the 5 years though they may be cheaper. Yes, even for unused tyres. I said about 5 years, not a definite fixed period. I am sure there are some with tyres more than 5 years on the road now. But for my own safety, I will use that 5 years as my guide.

b. My mileage is about 10,000 km per year. So switching the tyres after the 2nd year (20,000 km) and replacing the 4 tyres after the 4th year (40,000 km) seems to suit me, meeting the 5 years guideline. Maybe I will delay replacing the tyres till the 5th year if the tyre threads are still good. Ha.

A different story for those with high mileage, unfortunately.

Cheerio.

My 2 cents using advice from a tyre manager.

The front wheels will take a higher load (changing direction, braking etc) than the back tyres. Thus they wear out more than the back tyres.

Better to put the new tyres at the front and use the back tyres where they are IF the thread thickness is still OK and the tyres are still in their 5 years working life span.

Cheerio.

This post has been edited by plumberly: Aug 31 2014, 04:48 PM

Can't help you with your question but just wondering why manual car?

My first 2 cars were manual cars. After changing over to auto, I said I would never go back to manual any more! Ha. It makes driving so much easier and comfortable. But they say manual has better FC than auto. Tried to find out why but still not 100% convinced especially with today's technology in auto cars. Even if it is true with the better FC, is it really worth the "troubles" in using manual cars?

My apology to manual car drivers. Please don't bombard me with your arrows and bullets! Ha.

While doing my study on which car to buy, I thought Premium is more powerful than the manual.

Looked up the brochure I got,

....................... max power ........ max torque

manual .......... 80 ...................... 150
premium ......... 103 .....................205

Minta maaf if I have interpreted the above wrongly.

Cheerio.

Interesting.

I think I should go back to school to improve on my reading skill! Ha.

Back page of the Preve brochure states

Executive 5M/T and CVT use CAMPRO IAFM+ engine

while

Premium uses CAMPRO CFE engine.

Cheerio.

This post has been edited by plumberly: Sep 1 2014, 01:44 PM

Good news!