I also going to do 80K service at SC. They tends to do more thorough checking of the car and identify issues missed by my usual mechanic that usually just change according to service list. So I service outside except for major service where the SC will do thorough checking of the car every 20K.

Tropical rubber. Used it for my City for a few years. Good but then I've been using Belgium made ones. Nowadays all switch to China or is it Indonesia or Thailand made one liao.

However changed recently to PIAA Radix. Looks like a normal wiper thus lose the cool factor but for me, the wiping strength and performance lasting, upgraded a lot.

I don't think I have ever change water pump for all my cars unless there is any issue. Why PE have to change?

Ok...just check out from google, will consider next time. Water pump expensive or not?

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 4 2014, 11:40 AM

You are supposed to change gear oil and brake oil on every 20K service.

55 height downgrade the comfort also, so its a no no if want "comfort".

I'm still dragging my tyres out till the front hit the tyre indicator. Still looking at either the cheaper mid performance soft compound (faster wear) Yoko CD2 or the more expensive slightly premium Goodyear triplemax (longer lasting) at stock size.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 5 2014, 09:01 AM

If all those SC no want to change, go make appointment in the HQ COSE at Shah Alam, easier to get warranty repair there.

Not available here. Check out liao...

The common problem is the sharp noise only when braking, irritating but otherwise no effect of braking strength nor does it have the abnormal symptom like what you mentioned.

"Stop at hills and the whole car have some noise like nguk nguk nguk.
Sometimes feel like its even dropping to the back while I pull the handbrake full."

That is not normal and should be mentioned.

Usually those sharp noise comes from the FRONT brakes, rarely from the rear.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 9 2014, 03:13 PM

As long as they can detect your problem, ie.....if say got noise, when keep testing, no noise come out, hard to claim but if during test, noise come out, then YES, can claim warranty. COSE usually got ready stock and cost borne straight away by Proton, so once, they know what problem, they will change the parts.

For smaller SC, either they don't keep stock or they have to fork out money first to get part then claim back from HQ, they no want to bear the cost, so can tolak, they will tolak.

However if small SC is Proton's one, not 3rd party authorised, they can claim easily also BUT have to wait if no stock unlike COSE where they kept a large variety of parts.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 9 2014, 03:34 PM

Haha, you never drive a car before this, I believe....

RPM is usually at around 0.8 for MOST cars after engine start and idle (not moving), engine IS RUNNING even tho not moving.

It is always preferable to wait for the temp to rise before switching on air-cond to give time for engine to warm up and provide full efficiency. Not a must but preferable to extend life and performance of engine and air-cond.

No need to wait for it to reach that almost half level tho coz when park in hot weather and start car, you'll pass out from heat if you wait till it reach that.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 10 2014, 09:26 AM

Ok lar, no need be sarcastic, just say I'm wrong straight away. I have obsolete and even outright wrong knowledge and unless someone point it out when I wrote it, I would not know I'm wrong. You can say why not google first....getting lazy..tot no need...

My old air-cond man used to tell me that thus its ingrained into me. I guess that might have apply to the old school cars' air-cond last time, something to do with shortening starter motor life (ie..engine for me), etc, maybe. Now thinking abt it, I think it only applies to carb engine (which I drove last time), again not sure liao.

It seems switching air-cond after starting car might even warm it up faster but one thing I always encountered in cold start, if move immediately after switch air-cond on cold start, in most occasion, engine drag like no power one, so like Jason did, always wait to warm up a bit then switch on air-cond. But if super hot....tak peduli liao..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 10 2014, 01:25 PM

Oops...since you quote my wrong comment only without my heat thingy...I tot you being sarcastic, since you sometimes did so to my half past six comment. . Sorry lor...

btw if I have to on air-cond straight away after starting car and jalan, means its superhot, I gonna faint and I'm in a hurry, really cannot don't care drag or not liao....tekan only.

I really take care of my car like baby coz no money buy new one anymore. So extra careful to maintain stock condition optimally...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 10 2014, 02:21 PM

You should not go to unknown graveyard and pray for lottery number anymore. Not worth your life....

Last time I got such problem as well. 2 doors. Latch fixed by SC. Anyway 1 door still a bit hard to close although align liao and realise the rubber on that door seems a bit harder than the others. So I used rubber softener liquid on the door rubber a few times upon advice of Xan (a former forumner that upgraded to Audi liao). Few years liao, still ok.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 10 2014, 02:58 PM

I know how expensive it is, ex-wira denso air-cond compressor kaput before. Almost 1.5-2K to change a new one with labours and parts.

Heard City even worse at 3-4K. No kidding, I really seriously practice on-time preventive maintenance for all my cars and ex-cars. With iswara lasting 13 years before I change and wira abt 10 years. On-time servicing every 5K, air-cond every 35-40K without fail. Just like robot on schedule.

Cost a lot more than those ppl dragging their schedule out but end result is tip top stock engine performance and condition for all my cars that last for years (at the least my mechanic impressed with my car and engine conditions).

My moto, as stupid as it is, is to spend more money to maintain car stock performance and conditions rather than risk losing bigger amount through neglected wear and failure (although car parts fails eventually).

Some ppl follows the I no on time service and drag it out also top performance and no failure what, save a lot...and still works well somehow but I too old school and no guts to take such risk.

Unfortunately I'm beginning to doubt what I know and want....coz lots of information I tot I know is might be wrong or inaccurate..

So I just buta buta follow schedule je...since its working for so long. When its not broken, don't break it unless I ran out of dough....running out now...so beginning to drag schedule a tiny bit

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 10 2014, 03:09 PM

I'm dragging out the service interval by 500km to 1K for semi now....breaking my robotic schedule.

I'm dragging out my intended Denso Power plug change from 30K to possibly 35K to 40K now...

I'm dragging out my intended tyre switch from 3mm tread to 1.6mm minimum tread...

Still maintain 10K air filter change instead of 20K since its cheap and it really gives much better performance for that RM16 filter change.

As an exaggerated example, I will drag my engine out at 40K when I got money to buy 1 bread a day only...

Learning and update my knowledge now lor.....from you for example and from no money thus force to trial and run lor...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 10 2014, 03:16 PM

I've known of extended mileage lube but did not hear on existing report on Malaysian driving and weather conditions. UOA as accurate it is rather than assumption (we assume coz we got not UOA analysis) unfortunately is not commonly available to common ppl like us unless we're in the industry. Is it expensive and troublesome to do it since you've done it before? Does the UOA also analyse the contaminant suspension condition as well since sand and dust is a big contaminant factor here?

Which lube is that? Last I heard is Mobile 1 extended range got but all report from overseas driving conditions.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 10 2014, 03:28 PM